Supa Steve

72ft/lbs with moly

This post is pretty close to the mark but without running the engine right to get a proper plug read the results can be decieving. Need to see the ground strap to get an idea of heat range/timing and also cut the thread off it to get a look at the fuel line. This looks fairly rich that has been cleaned up by the car idleing hence the clean porcelain near the electrode but again the plug has been in the engine too long to correctly read as there is quite a thick carbon build up. I hope thats not aluminium deposits i can see (silver spots) and if so there has been some detanation causing the edge of the quench pad to be deposited on the base ring . Throw a fresh set of plugs in and do a full noise run then shut it down before it returns to idle as this will allow the plug to be read accurately.

so you could f*ck it before it has the chance to f*ck your engine. why would anyone ever take a risk with such a critical engine component. It will end up bad money chasing bad money.

i think you may have missed it so i will put it a bit more direct. it means 3/5th's of f*ck all where what came from except for the rod caps which are generally numbered and anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is giving you incorrect information. Clean everything up and weight-match to ensure best clearance and minimum grinding of pistons. Rods NEED to be resized and balanced to ensure they are exact. If he is as pedantic as you state then this should be a given for him to understand. Pistons and pins will only need replacing if the pin has flogged out the bore of the pistons and/or bent the pins. properly prepped and assembled serviceable parts will have your engine as good as new. best of luck

Your mechanic is a guy who is trying to pose as someone who knows what he is doing. Linish pins, resize and balance conrods as well as balance pistons and it doesnt matter what is what. As when they are balanced the piston and pin are matched to avoid taking too much off the piston. If you had a light piston and pin matched together you would have to grind excessive material off all the other pistons to get them to match up. Someone who suggests putting an engine together without doing this clearly has no idea. Id say you grab your gear and go elsewhere mate. A quick look at the early failure poll thread will show that there are a lot of guys who take on RB's without the experience with the poor customer footing the bill. Ive screwed together quite a few engines in my time but when i opted for a big dollar bill i went to the experts so the job was done right.

The newer tune has made the engine more efficient, the cross sectional area of the wastegate is not sufficient to bypass the turbine. Currently having the same issues with my new set-up. Im finding with the softer tune it holds well as soon as the numbers become more aggressive it struggles to hold steady. The guy who built my engine had the same issues in his car and they had to back off the tune to limit it to a constant level.

good post. no one has suggested the valve guides, especially the hot side. They will need replacing if the engine has a few klm's on it.

Just bought one of these kits from red r racing for my VL turbo engine build. They are a straight bolt on item that anyone with reasonable mechanical skills can fit. they can be contacted at www.twoogle.com.au

I hear a whisper tonight that Paul has a couple of his mates from the Vodafone V8 supercar team involved in this build. Can't wait to see the final result.

Good to see someone putting this back on topic. Outstanding result first time out guys. Fineline, one of the engines he has at the moment is mine. Its a RB32/26 (nitto 3.2 stroker/GTR head) but its for a BT1 VL not a skyline. This news has got me chomping at the bit to get mine in and tuned. V8FUEL and co if you want to discuss E85 im sure there is a thread somewhere else on here to make your point.

id say its a bitch. while i don't see anything amusing from others misfortune it appears that Mark does. id say good old karma has called 'payback time'

There is something just right about the look of a silver gtr with black wheels. see. Jack your car is by far the best looking r33 ive seen to date, nice one. I think the red r34 in the avatar might be the MCR car from japan also.

fun

Yeah i also find all this talk lately about high CR combo's being more responsive etc. is more theory than anything. Ive owned several VL turbo's both standard and hi-comp conversions with neither being superior than the other unless camshaft profiles and manifolding differences were brought into play. The bore and stroke still stay the same so swept volume doesnt change just the space its compressed into. The engine has to work slightly more to compress the mixture and does receive a slightly larger increase in velocity when exiting the exhaust port. If the supporting hardware is not inplace to support this small increase its lost before it reaches the turbine housing. This small advantage is negated as soon as boost comes into play as the air is forced into the cylinder not drawn in under vacuum. Id rather search for a little headroom in CR so on a hot day if tunes a little off or fuel quality is down the engine doesn't get a hard time. Id say driving an identical car with an 8.0:1 or a 9.0:1 the seat of the pants dyno would be hard pressed to tell any difference and in some cases would actually think the low CR car is the high CR if the placebo effect was introduced.

the sensor looks to be designed to fit into the base of the GREX (trust/greddy) remote oil filter block.

Ive decieded to get Red R Racing to look after the build and get Croyden to tune it. Visited both these guys last weekend and they are clearly the best option. Will be sending the donor short block up next week to get things started.

Was in Sydney last weekend seeing Croyden about a 30/26 engine build and witnessed this car being run on the dyno. I must say this car is absolutely mental!! Paul then took the car out the front to the "private test track" for some 10,000rpm launches. Was the highlight of a very busy weekend and was unfortunate it didn't get down the track on Sunday. Best of luck with it guys.

read this thread the other day from cover to cover, wow. Spoke to Paul at Red R Racing today regarding an RB30 twin cam engine for my car. He certainly knows his stuff and also mentioned your car among many other monsters he has created. I cannot wait to get mine built now, will have to catch up with you next month when i move up to Sydney permantly.

Tensioner is a stud, idler is a bolt. Its seems to be the idler bolt that is failing, also happened to NYTSKY (i read his whole thread yesterday). Using new fasteners on such a critical part of an engine seems to be the go.

id prefer not to use pro engines thanks mate. Guilt toy has suggested Red R Racing in Newcastle, he has given me some contact details for them so ill see what they have to offer. Ive also been recommended to see Nizpro and Racepace in Melbourne and Croydon Racing in Sydney by a few guys ive spoken to. Just need to chat to these guys and throw around a few idea's, the main one is a factory appearance (i understand they look different but want to use items like airboxes and recirc. blow off valves etc) but still making good power without too much noise as VL turbo's have a bit of a poor reputation on the street. Picked up a genuine A8 bottom end in Thomastown today so i can use it as a base and keep the original engine complete.

Totally agree mate. Ed your application is totally different, Rob is refering to RB26 setup.

price on throttle bodies and fuel rail thanks

Ive sent guilt toy an email, just waiting for a response. thanks

Helped a mate replace this hose on his car after it burst one night on the dyno, it connects to the head flange water return under the plenum. With the plenum off its a pretty straight forward job. Getting the plenum off is the bit that tests the patience. There is a barbed fitting under there that a -6 hose fits, run this to the metal block that has the vacuum line attached also. Cut the pipe off and drill and tap the rear of it to accept a barbed fitting and attach the -6 hose. good luck EDIT: this was on a GTR...for GTS-t just plug the line and run it to the radiator outlet neck on the engine. That way can show off your bit of bling braided hose!

Karnts!