kawasakirider

It's also running gate pressure at the moment at about 7psi (I wound the spring on the external NITTO gate back when I fitted the new turbo). I'll fit a boost tee at some point.

Well, I direct wired the fuel pump with a relay this evening and the car is fine now Doesn't break down under load, runs great. The walbro 255 wasn't getting enough power through the factory loom! Thanks for the help everyone.

Yep, no boost leaks. ECU is standard AFAIK AFM is a pink/red label - gave it a spray with contact cleaner last night and the issue became worse but don't think it was fully dry. timing belf is correctly installed could this be a CAS, AFM or igniter issue? Cheers

RB20 high RPM breakdown please help! Hi everyone, so I've got some issues with a project car I picked up and I'm hoping someone can help diagnose it with me, I'm well and truly out of ideas. So, I bought a super clean 180sx with an RB20 conversion. It was a non runner and I decided to do it up (why?! lol). Basically the car hadn't run for years. I compression tested it and that was fine, then realised there was no fuel at the filter, so I figured I'd buy it as it was likely a dead fuel pump. Long story short, the pump was messed up. I dropped the tank, drained it and did the following: Added a new Walbro 255 Got the injectors cleaned and flow tested (they were stuffed but came back to life and flowed almost identically). Sprayed some cleaner in the fuel rail and FPR. This got the car running. It wouldn't boost well so I thought the wastegate may have been stuck open (it had a high flowed T04 on it with a Nitto 40mm External gate). I took that off and found the gate was fine, but the turbo's rear housing had a crack in it and was no good, so I bought a T04E for it and had the dump pipe flange matched to the new turbo. The new turbo has a smaller CHRA than the old one. So I put it all back together last night and it's laggy but it wants to die high in the rev range from about 6,000 RPM. If I hold my foot into it, it will hesitate for a bit at that mark and then clean up and boost to 9,000. Now please, I realise RB's have a rev limiter. I'm not sure if the tachometer is accurate, it's likely out. So after that I went and bought a set of spitfire coils and I'm getting the exact same issue. Revs to mid-high RPM and as boost starts to really come in, it dies. The gauge only sees 3psi max. I've put a different gauge on to confirm this. So in summary: * New fuel pump * Injectors cleaned and flow tested * New fuel filter (admittedly I started the car with the old filter after I ran fuel through it into a bucket looking to clean the lines, bit of a brain fart but I doubt that hurt it) * New T04E turbo running gate pressure on the nitto external gate * New splitfire coil packs * New spark plugs BCPR6ES at .8mm So where I'm at now I'm just completely scratching my head. If it was the AFM I'd assume it would rev poorly throughout the rev range. I have a mate who says he had the same symptoms I'm having from an AFM, so I may change it. There's a ticking sound from the engine bay that I've isolated to be injectors/fuel pressure regulator. Could the fuel pressure regulator be shit? The injector guy told me it was working. It's just the stock one. The only other thing I can think of is the Walbro fuel pump is not getting enough power. I've checked it at idle and according to my multimeter it's getting 11.9-12-ish volts. Haven't done a voltage drop test yet. My thoughts are: Hard wire fuel pump to battery and just use a switch so it's got constant power. Add an adjustable FPR. Maybe switch igniter, AFM, etc. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears and would really appreciate it. I've read a bunch of tech articles trying to chase this and I am 100% over it. I know it's something simple but it's eluding me. The only other thing I can think of is the turbo is too big for the fuel system but I doubt this is the case as I'm only seeing low boost and after the hesitation it goes for the last tiny bit of the rev range. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Seen plenty of clean (not concourse or showroom, but clean enough) GTR's sell around the 20k mark. I sold a fast, modded V-spec for 23k a couple of months ago. The boom thanks to the american market is definitely influencing prices here, but it's not always easy to move a 20-30k toy and people do often let things go cheap. Hold onto your cash and wait until a deal comes up, you'll get one. Don't settle for a piece of shit.

Please PM me your contact number. What boost did it make the 380hp on? Very little power for a 35R and the line looks awful; is it running a boost t or an EBC?

This thing is clean.... GLWS

Sold.

Bargain

Edited - Business trader. Want to trade, that's fine - you're required to become a paying sponsor like everyone else.

Rodney Jane called. He wants his wheels back.

QFT and lulz

Bump

Someone make me an offer! Want it gone before I start commuting to uni again.

Bump

Haha, that they did. I thought you were losing compression earlier in the thread after each track day, though? Has that seemed to have stopped happening?

Got a pic of a removable plumb back section with V-bands? This is my favourite thread on SAU, mate. Is it still running the stock motor? May have missed it. What's compression like?

BUMP! ARC cooler sold! MINES ECU - $150 Elbows and pods $150 33 V-spec turbos including everything to bolt on (manifolds, dumps, wastegate actuators, o2 sensors) $200 RB26 pipework $150 Pillar gauge holder $100 Greddy boost guage $100

I'm not willing to do anything with someone interstate unless whoever is swapping with me pays for freight both ways and sends their seats first. I need seats in my car as sometimes I have to drive it if the mrs takes my daily. I would probably straight swap 34 GT-R seats, but I don't know what they're worth in comparison to these. Everything is negotiable. 0401029817 - please text as sometimes I don't see these replies and I'd rather discuss things privately.

Thanks mate! Much appreciated. Anyone got some R34 seats?

Bugger off.... It says negotiable. If he puts up what he'd take, he'd get lowballed to the shithouse. Go be detrimental elsewhere.

Wanting to swap my genuine BRIDE Ergo II's for R33 GT-R seats + cash my way. OR R34 seats as long as the rails fit a 33. Can anyone confirm? These are genuine seats and they come with universal Just Jap rails. The rails need some modding to be perfect but they're solid enough to drive around with. Only interested in people fairly close by. Brisbane, goldcoast, etc. Not interested in posting. Located in Brisbane. Price is a pair of great condition 33 GTR seats (no tears, cigarette burns, stains) + $500 my way. Please only reply if you're local. I don't want to be freighting seats. 0401029817

Cheers mate! If my XR8 sells and I can buy a bike in time for semester to ease my commuting costs, the GT-R will likely be kept. I LOVE it and I had an absolute ball in it at the last SAU happy laps. I'd like to learn how to steer it better if fate sees me keeping it. Here is a video of it at lakeside. For reference, that blue R32 GT-R has 700 awhp.

The Bride seats may be replaced with stock seats at the time of sale. I prefer the stock seats so I have the brides listed for sale. I'd love to see this gone prior to my next semester at uni starting, so I'm dropping the price again to $25,000. This is getting a tad silly. Please only genuine enquiries. 0401029817 is the way to contact me. Some pics of the rails.

0401029817 if anyone has any questions or would like to view the vehicle.