kawasakirider

Bump

Bump

Can vouch for this thing, nice car and reliable.

Sure am, no one lists a car without expecting to be a bit negotiable mate. TTT.

I've owned 2 twin turbo Z32's and trust me, servicing one of them is easier than servicing an RB26 if the oil filter is in the stock location.... The engines are awesome, too. My last one made 360rwkw and 920nm of torque, it was soooo torquey, I miss it a lot.

Bump

Couple more photos just from my phone....

Since listing for sale the car has had New coils (old coils were fine, misfire was being caused by a boost leak thanks for a faulty coupler) Service in the last 100km Brake rotors machined and pads linished, brand new pads Replaced coupler to get rid of boost leak The car is ready for its new home It's an 89 Grant, yes I have a dyno graph floating around somewhere.

Misfire fixed.

Bump, I'm negotiable on price.

You positive that it's the pad mate? I know they're nothing special, my pads were just down to nothing and I needed something ASAP, so I grabbed what was available. I've used them before on cars with the same callipers as a GTR and had no dramas with squeal. Truth be told, the rotors could do with a light machine, but I've had worse rotors in the past that were quiet as.

Hey everyone, I've got an R32 GTR and I can't get the front brakes to stop squealing.... I do my own work on my own cars all the time, I've done my own brakes time and time again and I've never had a drama. I did my brakes recently on this GTR and the old owner had lost the anti rattle shims, I was in a bind so I fitted the pads without them. They squealed and I put it down to the absence of the shims, so I sourced another set along with some anti squeal silicone stuff (goes on the back of the pads) and tonight I pulled the brakes apart, roughed the pads up, used the anti squeal paste along with the shims and put it all back together. I went for a drive and followed usual bed in procedure, I was stoked because the noise had gone. About 10 minutes into the drive it had come back with a vengeance. What is up with this? Could it be the type of pads (bendix ultra whatever the fark), or could my rotors have an issue? Almost ready to burn it.

Would consider trades for a supersports bike and cash my way. R6, R1, ZX636, ZX10R etc etc.

Bumpity bump

Yes mate, as written in the description I'm open to swaps. No guarantees I'll say yes but you can come at me No fish tanks.

Thanks mate, appreciate it.

So nice... GL with the sale.

Oh, compression is around 160 across all cylinders

Hey guys, I recently bought this GTR and I'm not in a rush to sell it, I love it. I'm just putting it up for sale merely as an expression of interest, an exercise out of boredom if you will. If it sells, I'll move on, if not I'm completely happy to keep it The engine was built by Gavin Wood on the Gold Coast, the mods are as follows: CP Pistons Eagle Rods Tomei 270 cams Springs/Retainers N1 turbos with HKS actuators Full custom tucked 3.5" exhaust and high flow cat made by Fabulous Fabrications (beautiful work) along with custom Hot/Cold cooler pipe. Intercooler Haltec Platinum Pro ECU Bilstein/Eibach strut/spring combo Cusco Swaybars Cusco 1.5w rear diff, fully rebuilt and new diff bushing installed with newer (and slightly larger/stronger) R33 half shafts Ikeya Formula front and rear upper control arms. HICAS delete. Desmond Regamasters in 17x10 + 20 wrapped in near new Federal 595 RSR's The car made 385hp at all four on 18 psi and at a very rich tune of 11:1 up top. If I keep it, it'll be getting a retune shortly for more boost and a little less fuel, but it's quick as it is. Aircon is cold, chassis rails are straight, no rust, this is a clean GTR 2 minor issues, the passenger side dash vent is missing (previous owner broke it trying to install a cup holder) and it needs new coil pack connectors and possibly coil packs. The coil issue will be taken care of prior to sale and I can chuck a vent in it, I just haven't found one for sale yet. $21,000 ono Will entertain the thought of trades, just depends on what I'm being offered but send your offers through anyway, it can't hurt! 0401029817

Thanks guys, I just recently bought a 32 GTR with a built motor and some other stuff, lol... Hypergear, sending you a PM.

Thanks for the info guys. Bled it today and it only got marginally better. No real difference and I didn't manage to get any air out of it. Bought a master cyl, clutch booster and slave cyl tonight, so I'll fit them all tomorrow and hope that's the end of it!

Thanks guys, I haven't really had a chance to have a look at it or bleed it as I've had no one around to give me a hand. No clue how I'd bleed it alone. Anyway, I was poking around out of boredom and I found this: Looks to me like the master cyl needs replacing. My mate is still adamant that it's the booster though. He said if the diaphragm is getting stuck, it can keep the pedal on the ground. I'd agree with this, however I think it's the master cyl as: Pedal feel isn't consistently strong The leak in that photo (even though it's miniscule and the fluid level hasn't dropped, maybe it's sucking air) Clutch engagement is on the floor, I only have to twitch my foot and the clutch engages... Now, I see master cylinder rebuild kits for only $50. Should I rebuild it myself or buy a new one? I see people warning against rebuilding them, it doesn't really make sense to me if the bore for the piston isn't scratched? Thanks for the advice.

I've driven it a fair bit since and there is really no loss of fluid, so it's baffling to me. I'll bleed it and see how it goes. Check for any signs of leaking. Thanks everyone!

Will give it a bleed, thanks guys. I haven't been under it to see if the fork has popped off the pivot, but if it had, wouldn't it stop working all together? The car had a lot of work done a few years ago, but I don't know how old the slave is. I just assumed it was the slave when it first happened and put it down to it being old and worn out. Double clutching probably killed it.

Hey everyone, I've been having an issue with my GTR's clutch pedal for a day or two and up until now I hadn't had a chance to look at it. I searched on here and couldn't find a definitive answer to my specific problem, so I'll describe what it's doing... When I press the clutch to disengage the clutch from the flywheel, the pedal doesn't have a consistent feel. Sometimes the pedal gets stuck to the floor completely and other times it comes 3/4 of the way out. When it gets stuck to the floor completely I am still able to change gears properly and the clutch engages the flywheel with the tiniest amount of movement from my foot, it's as if the pedal barely moves off the firewall. Sometimes in first or reverse, the car will get stuck in gear and won't allow me to take it out, regardless of me pushing the clutch. Now I thought in the beginning that it may be the slave or master cyl, but I'm not losing any fluid. A mate of mine told me to disconnect the clutch booster and block it off, which I just did. The problems are FAR less exaggerated, but it's still there. Any suggestions? Any advice is appreciated!