skylinekid

pics buddy

god sum ppl really are stupid!!!! when clutch is out nor the throwout bearing or the spigot bush/bearing is in use and they are doin the same speed as the engine. therefore the only bearing that is spinning that would be most likely to hear would be the input shaft bearing.... when clutch is pushed in if the noise was a spigot or throwout this is the tim u would be hearing it. due to the fact of the clutch has released drive between the input shaft and crankshaft. think about it ppl go through things in ur mind first b4 u start telling ppl wat u think the problem might be.

if i had ne to post anthony i would....

BAHAHAHAH yeh i know this.... can hurt to try a few things and see how we go... might have to run sum semi slicks on the street. do a burnout b4 i leave the yard so i got grip hahahahaha and belo i think the first time i hit boost in it i will be quite scared but im used to sliding around ive had abit of practice so we'll just see how it acts. im thinking diff may start to have issues.

with the size housing ive got i cant see nemore then 620rwhp on98 pump .... safely.... but will be fairly responsive considering ive got a stroker bottom end largish cams and a nicely ported head.... should see full boost hopefully by 4.2 4.5 all the way to 9..... WOO

call me a boy racer then.... i still like to be able to keep an eye on the knock water temp etc... its a handy lil thing

can they actually machine the standard t04z housing to create that t51r type whistle... i remember nytsky said it a lil while ago but about his turbo

O.T exactly wat is the significance of having the surge cover. does it work ineffect so u can safely "dose" ????????

to me it looks like uve been miss hittin keys lol... this is an english site lets keep it this way huh

lol nice paul... theres not many 600+hp street cars in hervey bay lucky if there is ne at all really. so will be good to be able to say im one of them....

y in gods name would u pull the x member out just to pull the motor and box out... personally ur mentally insane. different car but same idea i could get my rb25 motor and box out in 3hrs..... good thread for ppl who like to waste time IMO

shiny new hypertune plenum.....

im just building a rb28 stroker which i will be reving to 9k.... tomei buckets and nissan shims.....

shouldnt be causing a boost issue problem but the correct way to bleed the system is to take that bolt out and get a funnel that suite the radiator and pour water into it and because its higher then the radiator it will force the extra air out of the system. then u put th bolt back in after a steady flow of coolant comes through. then u start car and turn heater on full so it circulates throught the whole system. once thermostat has opened top up the water and replace cap. make sure overflow has sufficient water and ur good to go. neways blah blah....

wats ur mate running.. is he using a kkr aswell justin

well to tell if its rich... look out the back for ne sort of black smoke.... exhaust note will sound different to normal as in from experience it would sound very deep like a drone..... short of that mate without being near the car to hear it im not sure... yes that is one way of checking it... BUT ive done that b4 and the car ran different but in the end it still ended up being the coolant temp sensor... and if u sprayed water over the motor i just had a thought of maby u flooded the coils with water.... give that a check aswell also just by chance.... to have changed the viscous fan hub if u have a front mount u would have taken off intercooler pipes..... check ur connections all round if so.

when u say it goes up slowly... does it seem as if the car is running really rich when u hit the gas? the only thing i could possibly link to it after gettin hot possibly stuffed the coolant temp sensor. ive only ever really seen one go and that was on a ford falcon. same symptoms. when cold, system is rich. rich is justified for cold motor. but once hot the extra fuel will cause it to overfuel etc. anyways its a good start i guess.

waiting on a mate who has got them... not as of yet tho. i had a crazy thought of gettin the original knock sensors off the 25 and retrofitting them to the 26 block only problem is i would have to drill the block to make them fit due to the different thread size. not sure if this is even a valid option... probably not lol. if ne one else has ne ideas would be gr8 to hear.

hey i got no problem i just see it all to often is all....

seriously mate just tighten it up not so its aguitar string and very tight..... i use to have issues with throwing powersteer belts if the car ever touched rev limiter... i would go through 4-5 belts a week.... yes im heavy on the limiter lol... but the only fix was over tighten it and i hadnt never threw a belt ever again. u wont really hurt the alternator aslong as u dont do it up extremely tight... short of that check the grooves of the pullers for shit stuck in there if so clean them out with a screw driver...

did ya chuck a new one in mine??? im keen to see how nytsky's car goes this time round. made good power last time let alone making it better lol

well shouldnt it have clicked wen for sum reason sumthing different is happening now that ur not running the same petty(generally flashing lights mean get off the go peddle).... like seriously now. thats like puttin canola oil in ur sump and saying oh she'll love it..... sorry to rant on but sum ppl are just so ignorent.

yeh i was thinking along the same lines.... wasnt sure if the 26 may use individual grounds or not... tis all

get a tune.....

sounds good in theory but rb25 use 1 wire type knock sensor. rb26 run 2 wire knock sensor. gotta get my hands on wiring diagram to make sure which wire does wat.