o2bfit

I looked at importing some shocks from www.shox.com. Here is their US pricing. They mentioned the part numbers were different for the G35 and V35. I don't believe they are. TOKICO - Shocks HP $279.00 Tokico DSP adjustables $589.00 Sets of 4 F&R DHL shipping $149.00 The Infiniti G35 started in 2003 in the U.S. Koni lists different part numbers for the 2001 Skyline and the 2003-2007 G35 Are you sure they will fit? Regards

Hello, I purchased a sports suspension (shocks and springs) from a 350GT-8 for my 300GT. The suspension actually raised the car by 10mm but improved the handling immmensely. I had picked up some unrevised 350z springs but decided against using them as it would have lowered the car by at least 10mm and I was rubbing on to many driveways as it were. The sports suspension is the same spring rate as the 350z. Regards.

I'm also very keen to know how the KYB shocks perform. I've been investigating getting replacement shocks and are looking to purchase the Tokico HP or D-Spec. I can land the HP's for around $600 and the D-Spec adjustable shocks for $1k from www.shox.com. I was quoted ~$1200 for a full set of Bilsteins but reports from G35driver all indicate they perform closely to the OEM versions. I want something a little firmer. Also I'm curious to know whether anyone has removed the catalytic convertor from a DD motor and what their impressions were after the removal.

In the skyline/G35 forums, there is mention that grounding cables improve the gear shifting capability of the 5 speed transmission. Has anyone tried these to see whether it improves the engagement issue? Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Nice work Chad Bob. This has got me concerned. The issue is far more serious than simply cleaning the throttle body. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the Subaru Upper Engine cleaner will get rid any of this and isn't really worth pursuing as a regular service option. The issue isn't isloated to the Neo DI engines, the VQ35DE has the issue but not to the same extent. From what I have seen on the web, the VQ35DE owners put a oil catch can on the left bank (from the front of the car) and feed it into the intake. Although I suspect the the EGR Valve pipe is in a different place on the Neo DI engine. I keen to do this to resolve it but there isn't much room in the engine bay.

Looks like Denso use the same plugs for the VQ25DD, VQ30DD and VQ35DE. Thanks

I've noticed since I got the 300GT, that occasionally, maybe once a week, when I shift it from Reverse to Drive, it will pause slightly before engaging. So when I am reversing out of a carpark and I put it into Drive and accelerate slowly to get it around, it will hesitate for about a second and you get a light jolt. It only ever done this when the car was cold and had been sitting for a while. The transmission normally drives and shifts fine. A web search gave me differing opinons; from it is normal as fluids need time and heat to work properly, worn shifter bushing, faulty solenoid to impending disaster. I contacted Nissan and they suggested to do a service as this problem could be caused by dirty transmission oil. The oil level was good and the colour was a bright purple. Nissan did a service (flush, 9L Matic J, conditioner) and also informed me there were no error codes from the TCM. Problem is still there. So does anyone else experience similar issues and is this likely to end up fatal? Thanks

Can anyone please tell me whether you can use the NGK LFR5AIX-11 Iridiums as a replacement for the VQ30DD stock LFR5AQP? NGK list this plug as a direct replacement on the VQ25DD and VQ35DE but not the VQ30DD. Thanks

I found that a few people had an issue when they removed the wiring harness so decided not to risk it. There is plenty of room in the engine bay to clean it. I did the idle relearn procedure to correct my high idle anyway. Its easy enough to do. From G35driver: "It's very important to NOT disconnect the harness. If it is disconnected, and the butterfly is moved while cleaning; the ECU will lose the closed or zero position of the sensor. If that happens the car may not start or may run poorly" There is also a video on youtube - search G35 throttle body. There are a number of posts responding to the video with all sorts of issues: "Read this before trying to clean your G35 Throttle Body: I preformed everything in this video exactly as was shown, and my throttle body got cleaned but you must understand that it will probably cost you about $180 if you do it all correctly. Disconnecting the TB harness will make your CE light come on and will make the car throttle high. Tried the re-learn over 40 times. never worked. The dealership has to use the Consult II diagnostic tool to correct this. Be warned. Otherwise very helpful"

One other thing. It is recommended not to disconnect the wiring harness and hoses from the throttle body when cleaning it. I also found the idle after I cleaned the throttle body was high around 1100 rpm. I had to reset the ecu and perform the idle relearning procedure to get it back to normal. There's a post in this forum explaining how to do it.

I used Nulon Throttle body and Carby cleaner. Got it from Supercheap Auto for about $18. It was pretty much the only throttle body cleaner I found but it does a good job. CRC do a throttle body cleaner but I couldn't find anyone who stocked it.

Hi, I recently bought a 300GT with 113k on the clock. It was suffering from the occasional hot start stall and erratic idle. I decided to use the subaru upper engine cleaner and sprayed it into the brake booster hose. Bugger all smoke came out of the exhaust so I assumed that it wasn't too dirty.After a week of driving, it hadn't resolved my issue with the hot start stall. More googling, and decided to clean the throttle body . When I took the throttle body off I was stunned to the amount of carbon crud on the back side of the throttle body. With some throttle body cleaner, I removed as much as the crap as I could. Now it runs much better and haven't experienced the hot stall issue. I'll clean the plenum at some stage as well. Its a simple enough job to do and I would recommend get this done first and use the subaru upper cleaner as a regular service. Cheers