radianation

Here is the write up I did years ago. http://www.rad240sx.com/2011/10/ls2-truck-coil-pack-swap-for-s2-rb25det/

When I installed the poncams on my 25 I bought adjustable cam wheels. Ended up only using the exhaust side because the intake side would have required me to disable the VVT, which is quite effective. So I would only get the exhaust wheel.

534.6rwhp GTX3076R @ 25psi on Dyno Dynamics

Easiest way is to get a good baffled one vented to atmosphere and run two hoses (one from each valve cover) directly to your catch can. Depending on the condition of your engine, it may pick up very little blow off or it might be quite a bit.

Were you thinking something like this? http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-7064-turbo.html

Later they added this comment, which is more inline with what I was thinking...

I had a friend consult Garrett Marketing/Engineers directly and here is their suggestion / response: I think I'm going to go with the GTX3076R per the recommendations both on this forum and from the manufacturer. However, I'm not sure which A/R at this point.

Just realized I responded to this thread thinking you had asked about CAS and not TPS. Sorry about that. I recently replaced both and also had to rewire my TPS (using Q45).

I had nothing but trouble with various series 2 coilpacks and blowout so I upgraded to LS2 coilpacks. Much better ignition for about the same price.

Wiring aside, the way they physically connect to the exhaust camshaft can be different. Make sure you have the right pattern as well.

I was thinking maybe just running higher boost with E85, but yeah I think the Turbo needs to be better matched.

I could always take that in steps. If the power isn't there on pump gas after the turbo swap I just change fuel... Or do you think I should change fuel now and see how the current turbo does?

Couldn't that be the result of a weak valve spring?

That's a fair point, and I appreciate the concern and suggestion for track purposes. Let's hope I'm a better driver than you're giving me credit for, considering I started out on karts at age 5. =D *edit* Talk to me a little bit about the factory redline on the RB25DET, what it can be safely increased to without modifications, and the steps required to increase it beyond that? Is increasing the redline required for more power on the engine or should I be seeing my max power more in the 6400 RPM range like the stock setup? I'm obviously seeing my max power at the redline currently, but I think that's because of the turbo compressor map not being ideal for the engine. I suppose the engine flows about 50 at 7500rpm?

I agree - making power is no good if it's not sustainable, which is why I've taken steps to improve the weak points of the engine. However, you're still not qualifying what you're saying, and I am a little confused now as to why you're suggesting that the driver is not capable of producing 550rwhp? Also, the power has lasted (so far) for 3 years. It's just not my goal.

Good tips. So no need to upgrade the OEM fuel lines when going to 2 x pumps and surge tank? My current wastegate is plumbed back into my exhaust at an angle where the dump pipe bends. I'm thinking about removing this and going open wastegate. Now would be the time to decide as I configure an entirely new exhaust. I wish I could find out what intercooler I have. The shop who assisted me with this originally from 3 years ago purchased it and claimed it was a quality product, but I've never seen a name on it. =/ I'll do some more searches on here for the T04Z feedback.

Also, back to the possible issue of valve float, if you watch in this video, right about the time where the dip is in the power on my dyno chart you see a puff of black smoke from the exhaust. Any clue?

I have a lovefab exhaust manifold. Pics are not the best: Injectors were around 60% duty cycle during last dyno tune. Fuel delivery did not seem to be a limitation at that time, but I agree the fuel system is not very stout. Already researching a surge tank thanks to your suggestion. Any specific recommendation on pumps? Most people doing RB swaps go for the Walbro, but it does seem to be a shortcut... I don't want my fuel pump failing on the track. =) I will grab a screenshot of my timing map from the AEM EMS tomorrow and post it here. I do not know what kind of intercooler - it appears to be generic fmic. I do not know the exact compression ratio. I have Wiseco 20+ pistons and a Cometic 1.1mm head gasket. Thank you btw.

Again -- appreciate the suggestions and advice... I don't want to revisit all of the details of my very disappointing introduction to the tuner world and how much money it has cost me, but let's just say that I'm not looking for a quick fix or a cheap solution. I've seen one additional piece of information about getting the engine to perform at a 550rwhp level (stroker kit), but I have also seen contradictory information... Suggesting that a simple turbo fix or increasing the psi to 22-24 will achieve the power is odd since people are also saying that the car is not capable of 550rwhp. For the sake of argument... Let's just assume money is not an issue. What will it take to get this engine performing 550rwhp reliably on pump gas while not sacrificing spool? I've wasted a lot of time and money going on hearsay from forums in the US, but I really need some concrete facts on whether or not this engine is capable of doing what I want?

I appreciate all of this advice. As of right now, my research list for next step upgrades includes: Supertech or Tomei Valve springs GTX3076R .82 vs GT35R .82 (leaning towards new GTX) 85-88mm exhaust upgrade If I'm leaving anything critical off to help improve the performance of the car while getting me closer to my goal please toss it out there for me. I suppose I could live with hitting 550rwhp on a DynoJet once we're all said and done... lol

Can you give me a little more input why you think I don't have the setup for 550rwhp? This has been a 3 year project and I'm committed to my goal. Thanks.

With the inconsistency we couldn't really get a solid grasp on how much timing we could put at it, and thus didn't push too hard. Turning up the boost ... might be able to get 1-2 psi more while on the 93 gas here before it gets a little suspect.

We did notice at the top end from pull to pull that there would be a weird random dip in power? We couldn't figure it out because there didn't seem to be any mechanical issues or problems with fuel / AFR etc.