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Okay heres a log of the idling/almost stalling...didnt let it stall though as im affraid its putting too much pressure on the valvetrain. Im slowing extracting all the idles out of the excel sheet so its easier to find. I'll uplaod them one by one as i find them. And i have to use something other than this forum as it doesnt allow u do upload excel format documents :S Here the first one: http://www.filesonic..._of_the_day.csv (when you see the revs go up thats me revving it slightly not the car doing it) Last one of the day: http://www.filesonic.com/file/650611774 (I blip the throttle and it begins to die...turn the car of and start again and just goes to the same thing so turn it off again) The AAC numbers start to get really high when the problem is at its worst. So thats why im thinking its a fault AAC? Any help in understanding why its doing it would be great. Cheers

Yea i' dont wanna remove it, Id much rather connect it then take it off afterall it wouldnt be there if it wasnt important. Its just that it seems like the end that isnt attached should be attached to something immportant (i know the heatshield) but the end that is cconnected just seems to be earther on the chassis?

I had a quick search today on the forums for what the wire looks like and all i could find is that its wire 53 from the ECU (thats green with yellow stripe)? But im thinking if it has been cut it'll be under the steering wheel somewhere. So the speedo gauge (in ECUtalk) should work on an r32?

I just assumed that was because the r32 speedo is cable opperated? I just ticked all the guages available lol. But if theres a wire ic an connect it'll prob help the power steering as that uses the speedo sensor i think. The timing starts to drop and fluctuate when the idle starts playing up and the AC goes up from 10%. Ill make sure i log the data next time...i logged the data from the highway cruise section but nothing happened on that cruise so not really useful!

Very Simply, I'm having idling issues. I know these are common but i have done everything I;ve read in all of these threads on here that i could find and do myself. It might take me a while to explain it, but i think i have a faulty AAC valve if thats possible! Other possibilities are faulty CAS, fuel regulator, ignitor module, Dirty Injectors, dead knock sensor/s and 02 sensor. Lol think i covered everything possible there. haha The weird thing about my car is that once warm the AAC valve will sit on 10% and idles fine but then randomly will start not idling and start moving back up. I have screenshots below that I'll explain. Hoping it'll help others too. I have cleaned the AAC. Have looked at the air regulator. Checked for vacuum leaks. Check spark plugs and gapped to 0.9mm cause they seems fine when accelerating (just thought while i was there id gap them). Coils looks good (hard to tell i know) but there was no signs of cracking. Fuel Filter been changed. Running stock airbox. So these are the screenshots i got... I know nothing about this software and have no knowledge so if i sound dumb please bare with me! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The first is at idle when the cars idle started to drop... Now this is after i play with the throttle a bit. Blipping it tiny bits and then the idle all of sudden goes rough and starts acting like its gonna stall (and it will if i dont give it some gas)...i got this screenshot right at the beginning of it and didnt have time to get another one. The timing starts going nuts too when the idle starts to drop. It goes from a steady 15 and drops (hard to keep track of it). Im not sure what the AFM sould be reading and all that either. So have a look at everything please and let me know if something looks suss. So not sure what the stats did after this. But i had to rev it to keep it from dying...also i had to actually drive the car to get the idle back to normal...just reving it wasn;t enough! It would keep falling back to the rough idle...funny thing though is this doesnt happen all the time! It did this a few times in the early part of my drive yesterday then never did it agin for the remainder! Not that i was stopping much though (wasmainly highway cruising) ------------------------------------ Next scenario is cruising at around 60km/h. Got two screenshots of this. Now this one is where its gets interesting i think? The AAC valve starts to go back up! Is that right when cruising? In fact when i was on the highway doing 110km/h the AAC went right up to 90%. Now not sure about that? -------------------------------------------------------------- The last screenshot is accelrating pretty hard in second gear. Dont really notice much here apart from AAC again? Timing even? Sorry for the long post...thought i'd get as much detail out there as i could...prop just scared everyone off lol.. Anyway thanks for any help.

haha thanks! But seriously is there a problem with the wire not being connected? Should i bolt it to somewhere else? Is it actually an earth? I;m more worried about the wire not being connected causing problems. Thanks for the help so far.

Hey Guys, Just trying to gather some information on the basic setting everything should be at on a RB20DET in my R32. Things like AAC value (%) when warm and timing are most important to me. But if you know the working ranges for anything else please do tell! Anyone know this information? I would like to compare mine to someones who's running properly as I'm trying to diagnose a problem. Cheers.

So I'm missing a heat shield? You have any pictures of what its suppossed to look like? Also what's it do? Is it important? Thanks

Hey Guys, Just noticed what looks like an earth wire is not connected at one side. Here are some pics to show you... It is bolted to just under the power steering resevoir and go no where? Anyone know where it should go? Cheers

Dont know how you fitted it in an hour! But I've just finished installing the cable... Got it from Just Jap. Dealer said he;d have to order it and it would be 120+ Just jap charge 125 and i can have it the same day. So went that way.

Hey Guys, Where can i get a speedo cable for a R32 GTST in Sydney? Not interested in getting it posted as i want to fix it tommorow. Can you get em from the local nissan dealer or would that be a rip? Any help would be appreciated!

Hi Guys, Went to have a look at a R32 GTS-t yesterday and one thing that not worried me the most was this. You could barely fit your hand between the guard and the tyre on the left hand side of the rear wheels but on the right it seemed like there was double the room! What could this possible be? Maybe HICAS playing up or something more serious? Thanks for any replies. Cheers

Hey Guys, been looking for one of these for a while now. Only got 6.5k max to spend. Preferably less than 150kms No paint fade or clear coat peeling 2 door Doesnt matter if its stock or some mods Registered Cheers Guys, let me know if you have anything not listed on any site out there yet. Thinking of selling maybe?

Yea thats the exact price i was thinking...but owner wont come down that far. Yea i guess theres plenty of them out there but I'm yet to find many that look good (without horendous body kits etc) for less then 9k. And thats probably why I;m stumbling across the not so good examples. Is there many r32's out there that wouldnt have paint issues? Just out of curiosity how much would a respray cost? Thanks again.

Thanks for that. How much do you think a car with these problems would be worth if everything else checked out? Feel free to PM the amount. Thanks again.

Hey Guys, New here and looking for advice. Looking at my first skyline (r32 GTS-T) and have been informed that it doesnt have A/C installed any longer because of the FMIC being installed. Does that sound right? Given that how much do you think it would cost to replace all the parts and would it be possible to do it myself? Assuming its missing only the piping, stillneed to ask the owner what exactly is missing. Dont see why the condensor would have been removed? Also if the paints fading on the roof in one spot, do you think its possible for it to never become peeling clearcoat? if i keep an eye on it? Also is it common for gearboxes to crunch from 2nd to 3rd when going hard? I know that r32 gearboxes are known for being weak spots but is this bad? Possibly synchros or maybe clutch? Anyone have a rough cost of a gearbox? Thanks guys for any help Cheers