markdem

just letting people know that things like the engine, diff, wheels, and running gear in general is not for sale as im using those parts for my own project

all panels and doors are for sale most interior trim is for sale, minus front seats, instrument cluster and windscreen even the shell is for sale if somebody wants it all parts $20 let me know what your looking for and ill see what i can do. pick up only gold coast 0420 818 470 mark

im looking for a complete skyline thats been written off or otherwise very cheap. i need the entire driveline, powerplant, electrics and major interior bits. would like it to be manual rwd will pay up to $2000 cash. located gold coast 0420 818 470

ive made it possible to shorten the pulse width now. and ive improved the smoothness of pulse width changes so that the pulses dont leap up in steps. now they have a constant, gradual change is there anything else i should do to the circuit?

in my old workshop, the detailer used something called 'sol prep'. i believe it was just a rebadged version of armourall's dash and trim cleaner.

you dont wanna just glue it?

shit can be removed with paint cutting compound or other forms of abrasive stuff

1: get a bolt that will fit through the engine stand and has about 10mm hanging out the other end 2: bolt the shit on

might wanna check that they plugged everything back in. stuff close to the radiator, such as the electric fans

id start simple. pop open the indicators and test the voltage and resistance of the bulb holder

sounds like too much of a coincidence to ignore. you might want to go back to the dude that installed it and tell him whats going on

your on the right track. i'd start with the vacuum leak check. good luck

your best bet might be to wait until someone can give you a definite answer, but i dont think many people will be willing to take their ecu apart. honestly id take a bit of a stab at it. if all the other similar-looking resistors all have the same resistance value, i'd go ahead and chuck one in. i dont know much about resistor wattage interchangeability, but in theory, one could place a higher wattage resistor in the circuit without causing an issue... hopefully

its a resistor fo shiz. is there not any writing on the device? or has it all been fried beyond recognition?

+1

i would think that the earth on the ignitor is very important. if you want to know more about how ignitors work, research 'NPN transitor' my 32 was blowing ignitors because they were getting a constant signal (me thinks it was a bad loom) which was causing them to overheat. you can test this with a multimeter. turn the car on, but not running and check the voltage going into the ignitor pack. if there is voltage present, you may have a problem

you can find most exhaust leaks without much aid. if you can hear it from inside your car, chances are you can hear it when standing over the engine bay. id start looking here first. good luck dude

somebody has no sense of humor

is it not possible to repair the mechanism? obviously its there for a reason... but if the oil pressure is good, then its good

im wondering if it could be an exhaust leak. does the flutter increase with rpm?

oh my god i think this will be my new fav thread! i love blowing up cars with homemade "improvements"! spraypaint bonnets and bunnings style coil air intakes, here we come!

i thought one could simply unplug the sensor? no?

you need to buy a gadget for that. tell the auto store what your trying to do and they will point you in the right direction. there are a couple different designs

sooooo it looks like nobody cares but ill continue updating everyone anyways. i managed to make a trigger type thingy for my pulse width thingy... more youtube video stuff:

left hand front park light is gone. shit like that bothers me intensely. i removed a screw from the top of the park light so that the park light wobbles around a bit but it is obviously anchored down the bottom somewhere. stuck a mirror down there with a flash light and all i saw was 1 nut/bolt and 1 plastic clippy-looking-thingy. i already tried undoing the nut but that does nothing - perhaps holds the bumper on... so i assumed the clippy thingy just needed to be pulled/pushed but the park light still doesnt want to come out should i stop being a girl and force it harder? or is there a bolt somewhere that im missing, like under the bumper or something? i'd simply take the bulb holder out with the park light assembly still in, but i cant get my hands or any tools on it