markdem

id say it goes on the top hose since air does tend to rise from time to time. cut the line in half and slot your little tank in or just use the bleed valve...

wtf. pictures please

i would like to make a very CHEAP jaycar type device. jaycar already has a digital pulse adjuster kit which retails around $80 plus the hand controller for around $65. if i can make a similar, although less powerful pulse adjuster for about 1/3 of that price, and make it easier to use, hopefuly people would be interested in buying them im trying to design it to be controlled by 2 potentiometers: one for determining how much fuel is delivered and another for determining when its delivered. sort of like how a boost tee works. but i may need to add more buttons n shit to give it more flexibility.

omg sorry lol. i didnt even read your post. my ba. god i feel retarded. thanks for the help man

thats rather disappointing. does this mean that the stock ecu only runs MAF? or does it also account for manifold pressure (MAP)?

im not fitting a boost gauge. im trying to make a PWM circuit that actuvates at a certain boost level. instead of buying an expensive vacuum pressure sensor and fitting it to the product, i was hoping to use an existing sensor already installed on the car

i know the little black box your talking about. my r33 s1 had one. but im pretty sure i said this car doesnt have the thing you described

i want to modify my rb25 s2 and im trying to find the intake manifold pressure sensor. i think it might be the solenoid looking device located along with the AAC valve - the one with the purple clip. its definitely not the black box with an air line attached to it located near the brake booster because this car doesnt have one. nor am i talking about the wastegate actuator im not trying to fit a boost gauge, i already have one installed. all i want to know is where the manifold pressure sensor is

gotta love jaycar kits. could you please scan all the insructions and post them? and a clear top-view picture of your completed product? cant do much without knowing what im looking at you say it works fine on low boost which makes me think you have assembled the kit correctly. i have the small turn-knob style boost controller and the instructions say the kit was designed for a WRX, so there could be problems when trying to adapt it to other systems other than what it was designed. you dont have the same kit but the same rules apply\ very interested in solving this problem. keep us updated and good luck

injector would be a pretty obvious thing to check

so your coil pack keeps shitting itself but your worried that the injector/spark etc might be the cause of this? because injectors have no effect on coils or is the cylinder not firing and your not sure whats causing it? as a general rule with electrical problems, i like to check the wiring and connections for the usual shit first. at first i thought it could be dwell but as far as i know, skyline dont have a set dwell period. they sorta just charge until they fire. can anybody clarify this?

im not familiar with 32 gtrs or atessa systems in general. is it possible that the torque split device is the cause? if not, theres really not much you can do besides making sure the wires are in good condition and start poking shit with a multimeter. sorry i cant be more of a help man. good luck

Item for Sale: 1998 Nissan Stagea Rs4 Description: rego + RWC Location: carrara QLD 4211 Region: QLD: Gold Coast Odometre: 170,000 kilometres Asking Price: $7,000 ono Condition: Used Reason for Sale: want drift car Delivery Methods: PickUp unmolested stagea. auto. 4wd. got all the series 2 R33 stuff. only problem is the speakers arent connected (radio still turns on and speakers are good, just need to wire them in) its got all the cool stuff like electric boot n auto headlights n all that comes with rego and RWC. 169000Ks nothing wrong with it, i just want a drift car 0420 818 470 mark

took half the dash apart and found some wires attached to the ignition barrel wiring. looks like this thing used to have a turbo timer. snipped the old shit out, soldered everything back the way it should be and started her up

shit man thats a good find! well done for sticking at it

was driving home and the car stopped. lost power to the dash and windows and the engine wont crank over. fuses are ok, will check realys. but i still got power to interior lights and the electric boot and remote central locking still works. doesnt have an immobiliser fitted. can somebody please guide me in the right direction so i can start ripping shit out for testing. i just dont know where those wires would be

put the thread in, weld it, hope you never have to take it out again. good luck

drill holes in the floor. no more puddles

doesnt matter what colour it is as long as its designed for alloy engines

i like that idea! id take a look into doing that if someone tries to sell you a resistor to place in there, slap them. your new bulbs have more resistance than the old ones. putting more resistance in the line will only make things worse. if t_revs idea doesnt work i suggest making a short circuit with an appropriate resistor in parallel to the indicator circuit

did you spray aerostart all over the intake? or only a visual check?

if you only want to read how much pressure is in that line it'll be fine but i assume you want to read actual manifold pressure in which case you will need to route it off something after the intake butterfly valve. should be a couple lines to choose from. i dunno about r34's but my r33 has a little black box sitting on the upper right side of the firewall. i think its the electronic boost gauge sender thingy. try tapping into that

the sensor will probably be part of the ecu. i'd try to change the resistance of the circuit before i went trying to modify an ecu. but im not sure how your gonna go about lowering the resistance. maybe a 21W wedge type bulb? if they exist? i dunno. google...

my personal favorite: routing wires straight from the battery and a switch on the dash but you want something that looks semi professional. in which case relays are your friend! you probably already know what they are but ill say it anyways. a relay is basically an electronically triggered switch; it uses a little power to activate a switch that lets a lot of power through i think your super fast indicators need resistors put in the works. LEDs have far less resistance than normal bulbs. so in theory, the ECU has noticed this and assumes a bulb is out, hence the fast flash. however i dont know what kind of resistor you will need. that will take some multimeter work and ohms law equations on your behalf

dude dont send it to a workshop. all they do is exactly what any other backyard hobo does: "hmmm i wonder if this is the problem? *snap* nope. ill put it back... hmm i wonder if THIS is the problem..." etc. i was a mechanic removing a dash isnt bad. all you gotta do is lift out the display and look for a manky wire and put a piece of tape on it