markdem

hey man im interested in the afm where in brissy r u?

looking for a stock stagea exhaust. located gold coast. 0420818470

sold

update. i checked the codes a few minutes later. code 12; AFM.

my stageas engine light comes on and the car hesitates and runs rough between 1000-2000rpm. today it got really bad and the revs started dropping and then picking up again a lot before finally stalling. i did a diagnostic check on it by bridging the 2 connections on the diagnostic port and i got code 55 - all cear. WTF. ive cleaned the AFM, swapped the coils, replaced the sparks, cleaned the AAC valve and filled up with 98 premium the previous owner put an aftermarket exhaust on it and has cut the connection to the o2 sensor after the cat (there isnt a sensor to plug it into). the rest of the car is bog stock. not even a pod filter

dude i got the same problem with my stagea. ive been looking around on the net and i from what ive found so far, it could be AFM or the o2 sensor. im planning on replacing my o2 sensor tomorrow if i can find a shop that has one. im also on the gold coast so if i fix my problem, id be happy to help you with yours

got the ecu tested by the main EMS guys in sydney. they say its ok. f**king electrician. i made my own loom to the starter motor and ignitors and hey presto! the car gets a spark when i turn the starter motor yay! now i just cant get the thing to start. it puffs and backfires and gives an occasional powerstroke. im gonna steal the compression tester from work and test out compression again just incase something went bad. my only question is: is it easier to ignite a rich or a lean fuel mix? i plan on messing around with the fuel ratios a bit to aid in getting the engine started. im leaning towards a rich fuel mix coz on the old carby cars you had to pull the choke sooooo.... yeah just fiddling. i know, i know i shouldnt have to adjust fuel air ratios at all - especially considering that the engine already started several times on the current fuel air settings

auto electrican says ecu has died. not happy

never mind. made my own

i realised and i decided not to. its far easier to see what somebody is selling by reading the title rather than having to go into the topic

dunno what a jobby is... it is piggybacking if thats what you mean. and it was done by previous owners the issue randomly came about one day. simply didnt start. i used the down time to put a new engine in and after completion it started up as soon as i turned the key. then 2 days later it wouldnt start and its stayed that way since dwell time is not excessive at 2.75ms and if it were, it would cause all of the ignitors to fail, not just the ones connected to ignitor pinouts (pin-ins?) 1 and 3 found another clue as to why it wont start. im still getting spark when i spin the cas by hand, but as soon as i use the starter motor, the spark disappears. hence the original problem. im not good enough with electrics to fix this one myself. im sending it to a shop.

still getting spark but engine wont start. spark plugs are wet. im leaving cyclinders open to dry everything out. bloody hell this is annoying. im tempted to send it to someone else and tell them to worry about it

i measured the resistances of all earth wires and they all looked good, so i didnt bother beefing them up any more i ended up making an ignitor with bits from jaycar. first attempt was a learning curve, as was attempt no.2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 etc. finally i found a configuration that sorta worked but found that transistor 1 and 3 fried after a short period of time. my ems stinger runs a wasted spark, so i removed transistors 1, 2 and 3 and linked transistors 4, 5 and 6 in their place. the problem seems to be solved but ill have to test it some other time. its midnight now and i think all the backfiring from the flooded engine is pissing people off. i hope its flooded anyways. either that or the spark isnt strong enough and i dont wanna increase dwell and fry something i dont believe the ems stinger is to blame otherwise transistors 4 and 6 would have fried too (wasted spark). i think the problem lies in the loom. even though i couldnt pick up any reading from the signal wires (6 pin side of the ignitor) on the multimeter or oscilloscope, i think that somehow, a power source was coming from somewhere and causing the base of the transistors to stay 'ON', causing them to overheat from the charge of the primary winding of the coils. having said that i still have no conclusions as to why it would only die after i tried starting the car again, only theories if all goes well i think i might start selling my little creations. and as far as i can tell, they will work on any car that runs an external ignitor just as long as you get the pins right. cheaper than any new or second hand ignitor and takes a lot more shit. its repairable, lighter and versatile... its just better

actually its not a stock ecu. dunno why the f**k i said that. its a stinger 4424

ignitors are still frying. i took an ignitor that has been in my car and put it into someone elses car and their car didnt work.... the car runs fine witha new ignitor, but then i switch it off and switch it on again and the ignitor is fried

dunno wtf it is. i found a pioneer remote in the same box so i assume they go together $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

speakers from an old car. i think they work. feel free to try before you buy $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

aftermarket RPM counter $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

aftermarket oil pressure gauge with piping $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

aftermarket boost gauge with piping $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

2 cam angle sensors. one with round plug. one with square plug. $50 EACH gold coast 0420 818 470

TPS from an rb20. square plug type. $20 gold coast 0420 818 470

stock rb20 injectors $50 gold coast 0420 818 470

wanting an ignitor for RB20 located gold coast 0420 818 470

i got 2 one with a square plug and one with a round plug $60 0420 818 470