markdem

looks like the ignitor might be ok. i think its the silver box on the shock tower thats causing the problems

i shal try beefing up the earth point. yea its a stock ecu i actually went to jaycar and bought a heap of bits n pieces to make my own. we'll see how that works

i got a weird problem with my rb20 ignitor dieing after i switch the car off and on again. i took the sparks and coils out and rested them on the block and spun the CAS by hand and i got no spark. so i went to the wreckers and got a 2nd hand ignitor and plugged it in and spun the CAS again. this time i got spark. so i put the car back together and started it up without a problem. i switched it off and tried starting it again - no spark WTF! the CAS is working and the ECU is sending a signal for the sparks to fire and the coils are getting 12V and an earth. so i think ive narrowed it down to the ignitor any ideas on how to fix this? is the r33 ignitor more reliable? random pic of what an ignitor looks like on the inside

i checked the compression. one cylinder is down to 110psi which probably means that ugly sound at high rpm is a misfire. rebuild time! who wants a rebuild thread with lots of pictures???

dont think its the exhaust gasket. i had that before and its like a tractor, mostly heard at low rpms could be ping but its unlikely. i adjusted the timing too far a couple times and i quickly figured out what it sounds like. i guess ill try backing off bost and then backing off timing to see if its any of those

r32gtst big turbo 15psi fmic injectors ems exhaust supersparks

just wondering what that horrid sound is at high rpm. from about 6000rpm onward (around the same time the engine starts coming down from its power peak) , the engine no longer makes a nice purring sound but instead sounds like its rattling. like v-tec or something kicks in lol. valve bounce??? no its not my coils

stretch your budget a bit and spend $10,000

will swap for 4wd series 2 stagea

my weekend car. not for driving miss daisy 80,000K rb20det. 250,000K on the clock big turbonetics snail 3" dump and exhaust twin cannon new gearbox new clutch new thrust bearing new brakes slotted rotors rebuilt clutch master superspark coils high pressure fuel pump fuel regulator big injectors FMIC high pressure clamps pod filter catch can battery regulator electric surge protector boost adjuster bigger BOV aluminium radiator front chassis brace rear chassis brace height and dampening adjustable coilovers solid bushes through steering and suspension mongoose m30 with remote locking and shock sensor lightweight bonnet gtr style bodykit with low profile spoiler EMS stinger 4424 real-time, fully programmable standalone ecu. capable of auxillery input and output, antilag, data logging and much more shift light with digital rpm boost gauge radio with auxilery input voltage meter lightweight steering wheel power windows climate control power mirrors will get a RWC when somebody expresses their interest. 0420 818 470 mark

exhaust manifold to suit rb30 turbo. turbo is f**ked. but it comes with dump pipe n oil feed lines gold coast 0420 818 470 mark

bought a gearbox. thanks anyhoo

will buy another rb20 transmission if the price is right

wanted: manual transmission from rb25 also interested in all bits necessary to jam it into an r32 (crossmember, driveshaft, speedo etc) located on the gold coast call mark on 0420 818 470

cheers guys always appreciated

i was talking to my friend the other day and he said something about the r32 gts-4's having a full time 4wd drivetrain, not part time like the gtr that only usues the front wheels when it has to. is this true?

swap for this? v8 80,000ks 0420 818 470 mark

i want a 32 gtr. still trying to sell my statesman so i dont have cash, but willing to trade. 5.7 gen 3 WH with 80,000Ks

wheels have been sold

looking for a 32 turbo manual. prefferably 2 door. dont care if its rwd or awd. im planning on stripping the interior anyways so i dont really care if it looks shitty, but it must have a decent body and paint - no flaking paint, rust, or gigantic dents will spend between $3000 and $4000 for an unmodified model, and up to $10,000 for one with fully programmable standalone ecu, bigger injectors, massive intercooler, intake plenum and exhaust

rb30 turbo exhaust manifold - $300 t3 turbo to suit is f**ked. bought it off ebay and its badly worn, nor does it spin freely. comes with boost regulator thingy, dump pipe, oil intake and return - $100 r33 stockies with full tread - $200 7 f**ked coil packs to suit r33 series 1.5. if you install them in your car, it will run, but have that misfiring problem at 5000rpm - FREE rb25 valley cover. rubber seals are cracked and broken - FREE sorry, the CAS, oil pressure thingy and boost gauge arent for sale as i will probably need them for my next skyline pick up only. located on the gold coast. call mark on 0420 818 470

my desktop computer at home overheats sometimes and lags a lot, so i was thinking of improving the cooling system to improve perfomance. while i was researching what kinds of cooling i should get, i remembered that cars have small computers in them too. theoretically cooling the ECU should improve vehicle performance. i dont think it would improve engine power much - if at all, but perhaps it could aid in accuracy and responsiveness of other ECU controlled devices such as ABS, traction control, electronic 4-wheel-steer etc... but then again, do ECU's heat up at all??? i guess im looking for feedback from somebody who knows a bit about ECU's - aftermarket or not, skyline or otherwise. but everybody's opinion is welcome im not taking this seriously, im just bored and have money to blow

reset the ecu. problem solved

it did have a shitty injector that i changed just before i got new coil packs. i wouldnt be surprised if the others were a bit dodgey too. i was playing around with it after i started this thread and i turned the cam timing thingy all the way anticlockwise and it seemed to help... a lot! im not having as much of an issue with misfires under load now and the idle is completely smooth, so i think the timing belt has slipped over one cog on the exhaust cam. i might have to send it to some pro's to take a look at the orientation of the cam and crank

just replaced the coil packs with brand new ones in an attempt to solve the misfire problem around the 5000rpm range and a bad idle but ive still got problems. im getting flat spots and minor missfires all through the rpm range when i floor it and it still misses at idle. the spark plugs are platinum and are only about 5000kms old and ive gapped them down to 0.8mm so i dont think its them. i took a video of it and put it on youtube to help you guys see what im talking about. you can hear the bad idle best when the camera is at the exhaust