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karma_syke

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Everything posted by karma_syke

  1. have you got increased boost psi? ergo above ~10psi = rich and retard on stock ecu. Change it to normal boost and see if the problems still there.
  2. no it doesn't, i have a nsw licence and a qld rego'd car, i spend lots of time in qld and lots of time in NSW, they would have to prove that you've spent more time in one state or another. how the hell is a traffic cop going to do that? Sometimes i move up north for work and i have my qld rego'd car back in qld but with my NSW licence. Like i'm supposed to change the rego of my car and my licence every time i spend a few months north or south....
  3. how the f**k did that happen? $650 for what? how did they prove that you weren't in the 'said' other state ?
  4. lets suppose it is the tail light seal, how do you fix? that window silicon? i got lots of that stuff.
  5. posting in 3 year old thread.
  6. Thanks for the link, I came across it before in my google searches, and now i'm plundering dedicated car audio forums... This is a ridiculously complicated subject, fraught with misinformation mixed in with accurate facts - then there are people's opinions! I think i'm just going to shell out the extra money and by a dynamat 12ft door kit, i can buy it within australia for around $100-110 shipped to my door. Though i'd really like to cut that price in half Next will be sub choice/placement and box design ><
  7. Thanks a lot for you help carbon, this task is certainly more wide in scope than I initially thought. Going to head to Kmart shortly to see if they have this brand of glue, if not supercheap/repco/bunnings should have it. I'll take the precautions you outlined earlier when applying it. I've been searching around for cheaper alternatives than dynamat, road kill and second skin are pretty much as expensive. Many people claim to use roofing materials and have similar result, however i'm going to stay clear of those things because they aren't designed to withstand car conditions. Apparently there is a great product called brown bread ( now goes by the name of "B-Quiet Ultimate" ) which is meant to be just as good if not better than dynamat. A few review sites have tested it and found the sound deadening qualities to be superior. The great part is the price about 1/3 of what it cost for dynamat. I can't find a Australian reseller, and b-quiet's eBay store doesn't post to Australia. I've sent an email directly to the company asking them if they will post here, or where to buy it in Australia but I'm yet to have a reply back. If anybody knows where I can get this stuff in Australia shoot me a pm please. If people are interested maybe we could organise a group buy. Thanks again for you help.
  8. Whoa didn't think it was going to be that bad! I think i'll use it on the rear parcel shelf if its no good for doors, i'd like to go dynamat but its bloody expensive! I don't like the idea of permanent contact cement, could i simply screw it in using some of the existing holes? If its on a horizontal surface can i use a less extreme glue? something that i could peel off later?
  9. So received some new speakers and was going to install them in the doors, however while i'm at it I decided to purchase some sound deadening material to install while I had the door trims off. Went to my local jaycar and got some of this stuff: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3680&keywords=AX3680&form=KEYWORD Its pretty heavy and comes with a felt like material on one side and a clean rubber like material on the other. Which side am i meant to glue to the door? And what type of glue? Couldn't find anything on the internet about it. Please help.
  10. can a mod please update the links in the first few posts, nearly all of them are dead. thanks
  11. Considering most people here are skyline owners and depreciation on the surface seems like a bad thing, however have a fender-bender, need some parts or whatever you can buy it cheap. Also if we didn't have the rapid depreciation most people here would be priced out of a skyline! Compared to other cars a skyline 32,33, 34 holds its value much better, have a look at how cheaply you can buy a V8 or 2j soarer.
  12. Changing my gearbox oil to redline mt90 was wondering if its worth flushing the old oil out with some kind of solvent? And if so what to use. Opinions?
  13. yeah bugger it, just gunna get full synth penrite, there no real evidence (atleast on the internet) that the more expensive oils are worth it.
  14. We really need a super moderator / oil expert to sift through all the crap here and cut down this 100+ thread. One page at the start recommending SAU's most used oils for summer. something like: For track work we recommend: RP 15w-60, or Redline RACE (~$100) for daily use/light track work: motul or chrono 300 ($90) or mobile 1 ($80) daily: penrite 10w 40 ($55) / mobil 1 ($80) (i'm just using the above as an example not that i recommend the actual brands or know the specific prices) Oil is so damn confusing, IS it worth shelling out $100 for 4 litres for Redline/RP. Given that you need 2 bottles to do a full change and a filter that makes it a +$200 job for a damn oil change! Like someone said earlier after a few years you could buy a whole new engine! Is a $100 bottle of 10w 40 full synthetic justifiably better than a $55 bottle of full synthetic? Will our old RB's really be able to see the difference? can the
  15. tell, i ain't doing anything else this arvo, i'll get some marsh mellows.
  16. 180/silvia's arn't that cheap to modify, they are very similarly priced to rb25det components, suspension work and wheels the same... things get over the top (for no apparent reason) for rb26dett stuff.
  17. very unlikely, the more educated a person is the less likely they are to have children, this is why you see bogan teen mum's with over 9000 children, they are actually the next generation, if anything children from 'educated' family will be a minority.
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