karma_syke

your missing the point, a decat looks like a normal catalytic convererter, they can't tell unless the exhaust is dropped off and they look inside and the honeycombe cores are gone, or you get EPA'd and they check for noxious gases.

you could really do with a new gear and handbrake boot, they are really cheap on ebay, i just ordered a set for my 33

so much blasphemy in this thread

34 gt-t is a bit lack luster (stock), 'aparently' handles like a 'boat', people say the same about the 33 however i think this is all relative to the lightweight 32, i'd highly recomend the gtr over any gt-t, shorten your holiday and get the GTR. but other than that you really can't go wrong apart from fuel, but what is fuel to any car enthusiast haha they're a fantastic car and i don't think you'll be hearing much negatives about them on a skyline forum... and your right with the correct body kit they look amazing, but same goes for 33, 32, soarer's, supra's, nothing can help the look of a WRX i respect the engine/handling but its shoebox pig nose ugly.

registering interest for just the rubber strip, don't need a whole new cowling, mine is poking up at the ends as well lol. whats involved in replacing it, someone said gluing?

does this actually do anything?

great tutorial, and good pics, was wondering, if you were having any of the problems listed, to do some fault finding while you have the fuel level sender apart, plug it back into the car, turn the ignition on and put the float all the way to the top, check the fuel meter on the dash, then put it to the middle, check meter etc... basically to ensure that the level position is actually relative to the meter position on the dash.

wouldn't something like this have enormous heat-soak problems? the radiator fan is blowing hot air straight back into air intake, let alone air from the block/turbo/ex manni radiating right next to it.

doesn't anyone else think that anything branded hks is very overpriced...

theres a pizza hut at erina fair? wat. edit: or is being trolled?

awesome, look forward.

really needs photos :S

there are things to be scared of, mobile RTB's with engine inspections, just look at the melb boys who were crusing NOT speeding, all got pulled over and slapped with EPA notices.

to be honest, i wouldn't advise cruising around this long weekend, if you have any aftermarket (illegal pod filter lol) bits on your car or a slightly loud exhaust,. ironicly as i was typing this some dickhead in a harley just drove past with an exhaust so loud it shook the house, wonder why they don't get pulled over... ... anyway point is don't risk it.

wollombi worth it? just looking on google maps, is the great north road / george downes drive a good track? or is it a rubbish back road full of pot holes ?

nelson bay is a bit too far, i can see your from newcastle, so i can see why ya'd want it.

someone organize something, would like to meet other enthusiasts on the central coast. syd is just too far!

ah i see, my mistake, shame i can't convert it to an AF reading. thanks anyway. anyone know whats the cheapest/easiest way to monitor my AF ratio?

Pretty much as above, i have an 96 r33 gtst with a recently NTK OZA395-E2 wideband oxygen sensor however when i hook it up to my laptop and use Camsult or ScanTech software i can only view the O2 sensor Voltage, is there a way to convert this into a readable AF ratio? do i need another program?

haha, when i read the title of the thread i wondered if it was the same 'wire' that confused me, and it was! i was missing a heat shield, it had disappeared (i think) when the turbo back exhaust was installed along with the dump pipe shield. not that it matters cuz it wouldn't have fitted the new pipe anyway, i attached it to a bracket which held the original heat shield. i imagine its an earthing wire.

coilpacks?

At least it shows you are 'thinking' which is more than others can claim.

lol dodgy written all over this.

poor guy just enjoying some outdoor recreation

try looking through all the threads that deal with rb25 stalling, clean your AAC, check your lines for leaks, are you using aftermarket atmo BOV or stock, check your AFM for corrosion, there are tutorials on all these in the tutorial section. i personally had a problem with my rb25 hunting at idle occasionally, cleaned the AAC and never had a problem again. I didn't need to make a another useless 'my rb25 stalling' thread because all the answers are already here, stop being lazy and look.