karma_syke

this!

]what are those cooling radiators at the back of thediff for? are they fuel coolers? i can't find an answer, see attached pic

LOL what, they keep it secret cuz thats thier trade, duh, this is a skyline community helping eachother and sharing their experiences and knowledge, what your implying flies in the face what much of SAU stands for.

really like what you've done there with the headlights, transforms the front end, nice.

i think there is a tutorial on here somewhere about fixing it, it requires you to pull the cluster out take apart the tacho and jiggering something or replacing somthing, search the tutorial section.

SPECS!

would i see any significant performance gains if i bought something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-5-High-Flow-Cat-BOKKA-Metal-Stainless-Steel-/330483928428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf2608d6c#ht_500wt_922 or this: http://www.venomexhaustworks.com.au/products.html would these cats really be worth it? or would i not notice it?

Greetings all, my r33gtst has an xforce 3.5inch turbo back exhaust, but i was looking at the cat the other day and i think its a stock one, i'd imagine that a stock cat would cause much restriction. can anyone tell from looking at it anything about it? pics;

you do have a choice, what you are doing is pretty much a 100k service, there are kits you can buy online which come with the belts and a water pump, there are tutorials on SAU on how to do it as well, it can save you hundreds of dollars in labor fees, just need the time/effort to do it.

sounds like you got it sorted, now just hope your mechanic doesn't charge extortionate prices and does the job right!

bump for interest

are you using the stock ECU and running 15 psi? you should research that senario.

if none of that works make sure your AFM element is clean, if you've had a oil pod filter on it the oil will make its way onto the element, spray with with circut contact cleaner, comes up like new, i also highly recommend cutting open the box that hold the circuitry on your AFM and check for corrosion on the circuit board and on the 3 pins that lead to the plug, when i did mine it will full of orange corrosion on the circuit board and on the 3 pins, i had to re solder the pins. if corrosion is left to build up it will create shorts where they touch. you can seal the box back up with black silicon window goo, pretty sure silicon based gasket goo would work as well. good luck

4L seems a lot to lose from ? boiling out of the overflow? if you've had a leak and theres no water flow/flowing poorly then that would explain your water pump making noise and the temp spike. might have done damage to the water water pump if its just spinning and pumping nothing for a long time. results are still the same, check signs of a leak.

nice plans, btw, how much are you going to spend all up?

Sooo jealous. so expensive too ><

i dunno about you but i don't think these nuts would stand up to exhaust temps, unless you like your nuts roasted, mmn....

i can't remember, does the plumb back enter before or after the compressor? if its after then the pressure in the plumb back pipe would be the same as the boost pressure, and therefore it wouldn't be 'leaking' air at all, just simply acting as an equalizers, and when the throttle plate closes that column of rushing air bounces off it, hits the diaphragm of the bov, overcomes the spring tension, thus opening and giving that pressure wave an alternate route. (other than directly back through the intercooler and back at the turbo compressor) if the plumb back pipe feeds in before the compressor, then i would imagine there could possibly be a significant boost leak because there would be a large vacuum created before the turbo compressor and it would be effectively sucking the air from the bov pipeline, this low pressure created in the bov plumb back pipeline coupled with the high boost pressure in the crossover bar would accentuate the 'leak' (its not really a leak cuz it goes straight back into the turbo again). thus the air is constantly doing a giant loop an your losing turbo efficiency. whether or not the 'leak' is really significant or not i have no idea, i suppose it would be good if we saw a dyno chart, where the suggested mod is the only variable. edit: imagine a mythbusters style for cars where they check shit like this out, i'd watch it.

So whats the final verdict on this? we shouldn't do it because if you do the valve only opens partly? does the boost performance outweigh this con? any proof in the boost performance?

just by reading the forums regularly, people steer clear of using aftermarket cams for the rb25det, the cost benefit ratio isn't good enough, stock cams are seem perfect for a street car/occasional track, people have easily got upward of 300rwkws on stock cams. unless you want you car lumpy at idle with less low down torq :S

pfffft, who needs them

the girth!

i will match you with my peeling clear coat, and raise you a dent in a my front fender.

yikes, had a look at the intended course, the finish would leave me best part of 250km away from my place, guess i'll give this one a miss, but i bet shahin will be there, won't you shahin?

is it ok if my paint is coming off ? sounds like a good drive, although not friendly if your from the central coast, maybe 2 tanks of fuel. would be cool if we could organize a cruise on the north side, maybe the old pacific hwy