croat

R33 gtst series 1

Yeah had a search... Still have standard steering wheel.

when driving on highways for a period of time my hicas light seems to always come on the dash. Not sure if this is normal but if i switch the car off and restart it goes away immediately. Is there something wrong here?

Nah have not done nothing yet matt. taking it tomorrow to take the timing back a few notches. will see how it goes...

Hahaha! Gonna run the kid over!

Just took it out for a run now, first cold night since i got it. on 1.3 bar boost at high rpm engine cut-out light comes on, was told that this is pinging although i cant hear anything. going to run it back on dyno to set timing back a few degrees. I am sure thizzle made 250kw @ 1.3 bar, it is impossible to make it at 1 bar.

Yogi will trying to get off work for wsid. Yeah have been trying to take it easy, its pretty hard tho. should come to the creek.

Mark at MRC think something is holding me back some restristion. I dont expect much more from the turbo. There is heaps of mid range and top end in this turbo. Injectots i have are apexi 555cc and bosch 044 pump with surge tank and standard pump running in boot. It was a really hot day during tuning etc, not sure if the dyno figures takes that into equation but it was 45 degrees in the dyno room and didnt have a fan blowing onto the intercooler. Will hopefully be out the creek on wednesday to run so if people are keen lest get a bit of a crew there. would not mind matching it up with a few others cars.

dont have scanner to get dyno sheet up. a/f ratios were i think 12to1... this petrol thing got me worried. I am giving it a bit as usual with a new set-up. Max boost i run is 1.3 bar (19psi) u guys think thats too much for standard engine?

After heaps of small dramas i finally got my R33 gtst with GT-RS turbo running. Mods are as follows: - 3.5' exhaust with CES split dump/highflow cat - Blitz SBC/EBC - oil catch can - intercooler - oil cooler (not fitted at moment due to leak) - power fc - running standard fuel pump, surge tank and bosch 044 pump. - splitfire coils - Z32 afm - Unique Auto 1400kg 5 puck clutch - 5.5kg lightened flywheel Car produced 240rwkw at 1.2-1.3 bar, tuned by mark at MRC motorsport castle hill. Boost starts around 3500 and really kicks in at 4000rpm, goes hard till redline. All round this seems as a very good all round turbo. Will hopefully be running it at eastern creek this coming wednesday so will see what times i can get. Other people producing similar power, just like to know what type of petrol consumption are u getting? i am still not yet finished my first tank but have passed half way and only done 70 or so km's, does this sound right?

R33 GTST, Blown motor due to blocked oil galeries (2 out of 3). Exhaust, and pod filter chopped springs, only mods at the time. Was aparently cause due to excessive driving and cooking the oil (which was not clean) and somehow blocking up these galaries.

Used 911 turbo? serious? i would walk over the 911 turbo to see this car! If i had the cash i would pick one up quick smart!

car back tomoz! will be there for shizzle! Black r33 gtst see you there! what time do we return?

Dude could be your coil packs. I had the same problem and a set of splitfires fixed it all up. Dont disregard other possibilities though. maybe do a swap with someone else's coil packs.

makaveli i would personally go for the rb25 (from a r33) and bolt up a HKS GT-RS turbo or GT2535. I did heaps of research and reading into these set-ups and eventually went the gt-rs. that will see you easily at 240rwkw on a lower boost setting, and the setup is perfect for street driving. you will also need a bigger fuel pump, it ends up getting costly.

dump pipe you will notice a power difference but no earlier spool up. the other mods apart from boost/bleed valve wont do much. Better go with a front mount and run around 12 psi then you should reach your goal easily.

some things i do is disconnect the fuse for ignition (pink fuse in the boot) and or disconnect fuel pump fuse and replace it with a blown one. this fuel pump fuse is small so you can take it in your wallet with you. i also ensure that streering lock is on when i leave the car, have full alarm and use club lock and pedal lock.

here

From what i have seen you will need to get the guards rolled, and i assume the wheels will stick out of the guards. I am going to get them for my r33 gtst when u get some cash...

Using a bucket is a b1tch! Takes ages and actually wastes more water than by using a hose. Why dont you wash it in the rain? I usually run out when there is a downpour and give it a good wash then, may get a few water marks but al least its clean

I sprayed my bake calipers recently, when i did so i clamped off the old lines while the calipers were apart. I am positive you will need to bleed the fluid after the lines are swapped. Do you need fittings for the braids?

BBQ yeah ill give that a go.

r32 nismoid yeah i get what you mean, but the standard ecu controlls the fuel pump fine, so i dont think there are any problems with the wiring? also i have a apexi RSM and HKS turbo timer tapped into my loom... Can this work in accordance with the power fc?

installed my power fc into my r33 and have had some wierd problems. The power fc unit itself is fine as i have tried it in other gtst's and all works fine. when i fit it to my car all is ok at first, when i go to start it the car just cranks over and wont fire up. then a relay switch in my boot keeps flickering on and off. Also as long as ignition is on my bosch 044 fuel pump wont shut off at all, which it is supposed to stop after like 5-10 sec's. This has got many people biting their nails... Does anyone know what it could be?

i was thinking of buying a mustang. how does it drive and handle?