4rdr33

Sorry it's auto, worth 170klms in clock

Good car. Mechanically good, turbo good. Usual mods. Going without rego, car located in hunter region. Don't drive anymore so need gone, want 4wd. 3000

My driver window is now stuck down. I'm assuming I need the setup for window, not switches. Not sure if 2 door is the same as 4 door. Need it ASAP. Rain around and need to drive to work. Can possibly pick up if around hunter area or even Sydney. Please let me no. 0403 229 692 Thanks

I am looking for the steering wheel sensor for my 33. a working one of course, mine plays up every now and then. let me no. Thanks

This car is in good condition still considering it's age, 160000, has been looked after mechanically, engine is good, mostly highway klms, auto works great, some marks in the upholstery as expected over time, paint isnt too bad either, small scrape on rear quarter, some others marks on boot and bonnet but not too bad, also some litlle bits of clear coming off around door sil. The usual stone chips. Drives great, has lowered adjustable damper koni, fronts are due for service, all 4 are fully rebuildable, front mount intercooler, 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, 3 inch dump pipe, split dump pipe in garage for it, pod, manual boost control. No stereo with car, pioneer splits in doors stay. Car has it's age issues also, few rattles, old sensors every now and then. Car would benefit alot from a electronic boost controller as manual boost controllers arnt that good. Would like to keep but want a work ute, would also do a trade deal for the right car. Car would be a great catch for the right person who wants to look after it, and show it attention. Car is registered in Qld ATM, but I will be deregistering and selling down here. Car is still roadworthy, couple new tyres just put on the front. Also there is paint chipping on front bumper too and air con needs a regas. 4000, car is located in hunter valley nsw. Email if interested.

Hi guys, problem again with my hicas, now it started couple months ago, here and there, now all of a sudden, if I drive it up the shop it's fine, but as soon as I go start it again at the shop the light comes on, seems to be everytime I turn it off and then back on. I have to leave the car a little while and it seems to go away, used to be couple miniutes, now seems longer. Before anyone says search it, I have, doesn't really sum up the problem though. Anyone else have an idea how to deal with it, or anyone know somewhere on Brisbane northside I can get a lockout bar put on so I don't have it anymore. Thanks for your help.

Yeah I'm running a catco hi flow cat

Well I went with the choice of going back to a bellmouth. Not the best solution but for now it will do. If it solves my problem which I'm pretty confident it will. There is nothing else left for me to check, I will keep the split dump for when I change turbo's and do ecu upgrade.

Thanks for the replies so far, seems people have mixed views on this subject. I have also been told that split dumps flow so much freely and that can cause wastegate creep also, something to do with pressure. Not sure myself. Any ideas if I will lose much power by going back to a bellmouth.

Hi there, I have an r33 4 door that i got about 2 months ago off a friend of mine, I have been having an ongoing issue with bad boost creeping and spiking. I have a standard turbo running front mount and split dump pipe ( apparently bought off a guy on this sight that makes them), and a pod. now as soon as i go full throttle, the boost just keeps going past the actuator setting anywhere from 10 to 14. I am not running a boost controller. I have put a piece on the hot pipe to run line to actuator, and also replaced actuator aswell. Nothing changed. still over boosting. I detached the actuator arm today and wired the flap open as far as it could go and went for a test drive. Still the car boosted up by about 3000 - 3500 and kept rising to about 9 psi, maybe even 10. With it open, shouldnt i only get maybe a couple psi by redline, not 9 or 10. I am thinking the split dump has something to do with this, I have checked for boost leaks everywhere i can, and replaced some hoses. I am leaning towards going back to bellmouth dump, i have been told they a a lot more stable on boost and keep the split for when or if i decide to do ecu and tune. Anyone that has been through this, knows anything about this sort of thing, please shed some light and let me know if i am maybe on the right track. Thanks to everyone for there help. Josh

i have an auto 33, will this run piggyback for my auto. i know it an oldish thread but didnt look like u had any takers.

do you still have the stock actuator for the 33 by any chance, need one

do you happen to still have the standard actuator for the 33

Hey, just after another r33 actuator for a series 1, anyone have one they don't need just let me no. My car likes to over-boost and im running out of options on what it could be so im going to replace the actuator. Im in Brisbane. Thanks

Sometimes the boost goes to about 15, depends how cold it is that night. On average it goes 10 to 12, i have a split dump pipe on it also. I have heard that can make a difference. That quick tap idea in the link that was posted seems like a good idea. Maybe i should give that a go. from around the turbo housing, is that where pretty much everyone goes from.

Im not sure where the stock location is, it's not standard intercooler piping, and there is hoses taken out cause of the piping and the soliniod being gone. Right now it's running straight from one ofthe steel pipes that runs accross the top of the rocker cover, usually goes to charcoal canister, not teed off either, just straight from there tothe actuator. Problem is my boost just keeps rising the higher my revs go. This is the setup that was on it when I got it. I am new to these turbo setups. I was thinking of putting on a profec b controller.

Hi, wondering what the best place to hook the a atuator hose to. Standard setup without soliniod and fmic. Pics are really handy too if u have any. Thanks Josh

Do you lose much power by putting the stock one back on, and what's the bellmouth one, how is it different. Still new to turbo car. This is the setup that came on the car. I'm not bothered about running standard boost, I would put standard solenoid on if I new it would work, or ebc.

so where abouts is the nipple off the compressor housing, is it under the heat cover of the turbo. Anyone have a pic of this

Hi guys, need some advice, i just recently got my skyline through a good friend of mine. Problem i am running into is bad boost creep as the revs go up. I put a manual boost controller on to see if it would help to maintain it but no luck, and it plays around with the ecu as it try to adjust so it getting slow spots through the rev range. If i put the standard solenoid back on, will it sturdy the boost as it was designed to do, or is there another issue, i have checked for boost leaks and replaces lines, but still the same. The line running the wastegate is one that the charcoal canister usually runs too. any help would be great on the topic Thanks Josh

Well everything is working again, I lost my indicators last night, checked all the fuses and nothing blown, but they still flashed with the alarm, so I checked fuses avian and found one dead, put that back in and clock and aerial started working, but still no indicators, then I fiddled putting the fuse in all the way it can and just tested once more and there they were. I must have a loose connection behind the fuse box, cause I triple checked all the fuses the other day and none were blown. The whole fuse box inside the panel moves so it would not suprise me. So sorry I don't have a solution for anyone else who has this problem, all I can say is check third fuse up from the bottom, left side in side the car, that's the one that ended up shitting itself.

I did look around at relay but couldn't see one that it would come under, going to pull aerial connections of this afternoon as I finish at 1 on Fridays so I will actually have some daylight. If I can figure it out, I will just rewire the aerial with it's own online fuse, same with clock if I have too. It's just odd cause the constant power wire for the head deck is only pushin just over 2v all the time, I have to run my own just to get it to work. But thanks to everyone that's tried to help so far.

Well after searching this site, there has been alot of people with the issue over the years asking about it, but i have not read how they fixed it, did they simply give up and rewire the clock, and in my case my aerial wont go up and down. I have checked everything that i can think of or see and its got me stuffed. Usually im actually quite good at finding issues like this, but not this one. Oh well keep searching for a answer. Thanks to anyone who knows how to solve it.

Well i tried all the fuses, none blown, not sure what else, clock doesnt have any power now, dead. i will pull off the surround again and look to make sure everything is right behind there, but im 100% sure it is. Any other clues.

Hi all, havin problems with my aerial since I went to put my tv in car, that wouldn't work, so I put the other cd player back in and now the aerial won't go up and down even though it's hooked, and the clock is dull like it's going flat. Any help would be great.