blk94r33

Had the same issue last night, console kept "finding" 20+ games, would join one, load, then drop out. Did this maybe 10-15 times, then I actually did get into a game, and it dropped out, repeat, repeat, repeat. I think in 3-4 hours of being online I played maybe 6 games if that? RAGE

THIS X 11ty11!!!! Glad i'm not the only one. MW2 if a noob hit you, you could drop, turn around and take them out no worries. On MW3 it's like EVERYONE has aim-bot? You're dead before you even can see around a corner, watch the kill cam and it appears you were taking a leisurely stroll?

And the noob tube is back, rage....

Yeah having similar woes with a strict NAT, tried everything regarding the router to fix it, but no luck. Even when I have a 4 bar connection seem to have the lag issues (sure I hit someone, didn't fire on kill cam). Personally, I like it, features such as the assault/support/specialist kill streaks, the re-plays to share with friends in the "vault" are big improvements to the game. But for some reason, nothing feels as good (real) as MW2, Black Ops, World At War and MW3 all feel very arcadey and slow, while MW2 always felt more realistic and quick to me, but i'm slowly getting used to it. Do like the specialist kill-streaks though, 6 perks FTW!

I like how media makes lag=high boost threshold.......

Mines a very simple set-up. PCV blocked, lines from the rocker cover go directly into the catch can, then another line to the turbo intake. The drain plug is 1/2 inch from the bottom, never been full enough to empty it yet. Is the steel-wool/stocking baffling effective? Why do people run a sump return? There's stuff all in my catch can, but it does a great job of catching all the condensation build up etc.......

I work for RACV, thus knowing the above method. Alot of the time if late model cars are locked with a flat battery, you simply can't get into them as the locks are electronic and simply won't unlock. If he hasn't already called RACV etc, chances are he isn't a member.....

Another option (before breaking things) is to jack the car up, crawl under it, and bridge power to either the alternator main wire or starter motor wire with a jump pack or another battery. Then just unlock it and open the bonnet....

We tell customers at work it's mandatory they take it easy for 1000-1500km. No excessive slipping, 4x4 work (some cases) or general hard driving, towing etc. etc. Twice had incidents where KNOWN hoons (the type to kick and spin EVERY gear change, everywhere) come back a week later having clutch problems, and the clutch has been obviously abused. Obviously no warranty as soon as the clutch was sent back. One was a V6 VU ute, dual mass flywheel both times, quite expensive. You'll be hard pressed to find a manufacturer who will give you warranty on a clutch that's been raped on it's first drive. You don't take a fresh engine to the drags or a drift day and limiter bash... You don't hang off the brake pedal from 300km/h down to 0 with new pads and rotors...

There's nothing to tune on a stock car, is what he's saying. You can wind in base timing for minimal gains in power, that's it..... Or tamper with the AFM calibration.....

a 2008 corolla is good. Filter is directly above the sump plug and on a right angle, so absolutely no mess to clean up when you remove it or drain the oil.

Same theory as speed cameras, so long as the coffers are being filled, safety and effectiveness is irrelevant....

Landrover TD5 Diesel Not the centrifugal filter, the screw on Z614 /discussion

They came as a pair, with 4 bushes, two offset inners (the adjustable bit) and all the necessary bolts and nuts, and fit in the upper rear-most control arm, in the hub end... Cost me $90 so expect ~$120-$140? I fitted them myself, and it sucked as the stock steel outer was seized to the hub, 3 hours total of cutting out the rubber bit, then the steel all while trying not to damage the hub. Kit here: http://www.nolathane...rt_number=46230 Also has a picture showing where the bush goes and what it corrects..... Edit: My big nasty book of receipts says that I installed the kit in september last year, I average about 20,000 km per year, if that's any help as to expected life? They haven't worn out or lost adjustment yet....

+1 Got Nolathane rear-upper control arm bushes with +-1.5 degrees camber adjustment, great price and still going strong, made a world of difference to handling after lowering and has done heaps for tyre wear.....

Hi all, Looking at upgrading my system again, taking out the current pair of Eclipse SW6010 subs, and replacing them with either a single or pair of good quality 12's in the aim of getting more bottom end bass, but retaining as much clarity as possible. (Most likely something from the P3 Rockford Fosgate range) Now, am I better off to go for a single 800w rms 12" possibly in a ported box, or a pair of 400w rms 12"s in a sealed box? Does extra power actually make more bass, or does cone area/displacement make more difference? I'm not fussed which option I go with, just wanted some experiences/facts..... Also, has anyone run a (what will have to be) a DVC 2 ohm sub off 2 seperate amplifiers? (I understand that the gain and frequency need to be exactly matched for each voice coil) As I currently have a pair of Pioneer GMD7400M amps running the subs, and don't want to change them out or buy another if not absolutely necessary, which will give me the 800w rms to play with... Opinions?

More related links: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266395-apexi-safc-on-r33-gts-t/page__st__20__p__4561436#entry4561436 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266395-apexi-safc-on-r33-gts-t/page__p__4547580#entry4547580 230 rwkw: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266395-apexi-safc-on-r33-gts-t/page__p__4547664#entry4547664 307rwhp: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266395-apexi-safc-on-r33-gts-t/page__p__4547912#entry4547912

Mines up and running as per Predators guide, but it affects the AFL% as the % readout must be based on what the numbers are set to. No big deal though, everything else works well. Might add that i'm very happy with the results. Car was dyno'd with an AFR of ~9:1, so took %15 fuel out across the board on the low throttle map, and %10 on the high throttle map. Completely different vehicle! Much more responsive, better on/off boost, smoother all round and definitely more power everywhere. Keen to get it back on the dyno and set-up properly. Also, the SAFC has alot more features than anyone talks about, although mostly useless/wank factor, stuff like the different monitor displays, peak hold/recall, graphing readouts, and other little things are quite interesting!

Related: http://www.maxxtunin...tr--benjamin-b/ Cars here with 30+rwkw gain and better economy: http://www.300zx.com.au/dyno.htm

And this kids, is how revenue is raised! In today's lesson:speed cameras.....

Look for a vacuum style bleeder? The Snap-On one of mine came as a kit with a reservoir and bleeder. You attache the 1/2 litre reservoir to the master cylinder and it drains itself as the fluid level drops. The other end attaches to the bleed nipple, runs off an air line, crack the bleeder with it attached and turned on and it sucks the fluid out and lets you see it coming out. Admittedly, have had trouble on the RARE occasion where the brakes haven't bled properly and had to manually 2-man bleed them. Or when the rubber elbow isn't sitting properly on the nipple and looks like there's air coming out still when there isn't...

As Hamish said, you're limited by the stock ecu/injectors/afm/turbo, everything basically. As a guide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__3705564 277rwkw with stock engine management, 25/30 with all the fruit. So could go higher with the SAFC to fine tune it. Is that the sort of answer you're looking for?

+1 Much better way of wording it.

I'd avoid the Turbo-smart boost tees as they are prone to spiking. Turbo-tech if your going for a tee style one.

Turbo-tech boost tee. Cheap, reliable, proven, effective.... /thread