blk94r33

Ah ok, so the low throttle map does need tuning for better power/economy. So the O2 sensor is only used during say highway driving, MAF sensor for the rest? Effectively, the low throttle map allows you to tune the car leaner under light load, then richer to prevent ping under heavy load? Cheers for the advice. I have 2 of the right angle bends, so will take a look and see how they're holding up. Already have a new piece on way for the crossover to throttle-body connection.

Bit of a bump, as i' installing an SAFC in the coming weeks. Predator mentioned to leave the "IN;1 OUT:1", the apexi manual: http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/safc_manual.pdf Says to set it to "IN:4 OUT:4", but "maximumrpm" stated that the car stalls when set to 4&4? Any ideas?

70 mm outside diameter. Buying a piece of hose for my car now, so measured it and yeah, 70mm.

Congratulations! Another +T! They're good fun to drive as there is alot of punch down low, and very consistent/smooth power across the board. No doubt you'll be looking for more power soon though...

Yeah not sure how lean i'm going to take it, as i'm running the standard SMIC with extended custom piping to the R/H/F guard. This configuration is working well at ~7psi and the intake doesn't get much above ambient. I think trying for somewhere between ~11:1-~12:1, and slowly increasing the boost while checking for knock should yield a much better result, but keep the whole package reliable.

Yeah didn't think so. maybe 60-70+ psi could upset things. With your SAFC, what throttle setting (%/volts) did you have your map switching point? From what I understand, anything below ~%35 throttle when the engine is hot is useless for tuning as the ECU is in closed loop and reads off the O2 sensor? Is this true or does it still use the MAF signal? Ordered a second hand SAFC today, very keen to get it in and get the car back on the dyno! Only other thing i've noticed is I re-used the connector from the throttle body to the intake/cross-over pipe during the conversion. Will have to get a new piece of silicone hose to replace it in-case it's gone hard and leaking, but doesn't appear to under vacuum.

Ok, general consensus is ~35 psi at idle, ~45psi reg disconnected/atmo pressure. So I do have high fuel pressure. But the reg is still working normally as the pressure changes when the engine is revved or the reg disconnected? I doubt 10 psi extra can do damage? As most people up the pressure before replacing injectors as a cheat. I'd say an SAFC is needed and try lean it out a bit. Will check the return line isn't blocked/damper faulty etc before-hand to avoid the problem "fixing itself" and f****** something later on....

Ah ok. I thought stock fuel pressure was ~45 psi at idle, hose connected? So 10psi higher fuel pressure might be causing it.... And yeah it's the stock reg. I'll try and find what the pressure is meant to be...

Not finding any air leaks yet, but as I said might need to get the car on boost on the dyno and re-check. Not %100 about the AFM? As I said, it hit ~4.95 volts at near max revs, stock (for the ECU) boost, and WOT, so I suppose the GTST AFM would range up to 5 volts, and the N/A one only uses say 2/3's of that voltage? I imagine if the NA AFM was different it would "top out" at a much lower air flow than 7psi? Only other thing I could think of would be a dodgey vac/pressure gauge reading low, and i'm in-fact running more air and hitting R&R....

So far so good. Removed the cooler, bathed it-ok. Re-fitted, re-checked the clamps and hoses including the BOV return, AAC, turbo outlet etc. etc.. Took off the BOV, still has resistance and appears OK. Ran start-ya-bastard around the intake manifold, plenum and throttle body, injectors, turbo etc.-no change (again, could change under boost) and checked all the bolts/nuts. But otherwise all appears fine in terms of air leaks. Fuel pressure is normal, 45psi at idle, goes up to 55-60psi when revved-appears to be working. Will re-drive the car tomorrow and see if anything feels different, but otherwise going to look at some form of engine management or even an SAFC at this stage and work from there.

Using the stock plumb-back BOV. Might try blocking/disconnecting it next run to see if it makes a difference. Checked over the intake clamps/piping/cooler last night, all ok and no visible faults, sorta hard to check for leaks under boost (ie. soapy water) without the dyno. Not to say the cooler isn't leaking or somewhere else though. R&R is still a possibility too. We have a MODIS at work, hooked it up and took the car for a drive. AFM appears to be ranging normally, hit a maximum of 4.94 volts, WOT, 2nd gear, ~6950rpm. Voltage goes up consistently with TPS/RPM but car still feels the same. Also reset the TPS before-hand due to it having a base setting of .30 volts. @ WYSTKY. In the top end, i'm not actually running the full 7 psi, the mechanical gauge fluctuates after 5000rpm between 7psi and 5psi, so it's making the maximum figure on ~5psi, combined with as much as 8.5:1 AFR, not bad power...... I'm going to keep checking the basics, it's also due for a service so will get onto that between now and the next run. Still want to check the fuel pressure in case of a bad reg or simply too much pressure.

Hi all, seeking opinions after a slightly disappointing result: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/249186-nat-power-results-na-t-turbo-conversions-only/page__view__findpost__p__5981406 In brief, the car made an overall low figure. AFR's "peaked" at around 8.5-9:1. After dropping the exhaust, removing the air filter, and seeing no worth-while gains in changing either (yet), and talking to the dyno operator, he said the next option is simply to take out fuel to find more power. But I honestly don't know why it's so rich? Other problem being boost gets unstable after 5000rpm, mechanical gauge goes from a solid 7 to flickering like crazy between 7 and 5 psi, which again could still be a rich mixture not burning properly? Relevant mods: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=garage&do=view&id=1515 Ideas include: -Too much fuel pressure (doubtful with a GTST reg, injectors, rail and Walbro GSS-341 pump) -The AFM is still a N/A series 1 R33 item, is the turbo one different? Ie. the AFM hitting 5 volts too soon and ECU going into R&R? And yes, i'm the muppet with the 2.5" exhaust, but dropping it at the dump/front pipe and removing the air filter made little difference. And at 138 kw I doubt it's causing problems anyway? Open to suggestions ideas etc. Cheers, Josh.

Finally got my s**t together. Model: R33 Series 1 GTS Engine: RB25DE+T Mods/parts:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=garage&do=view&tab=main&id=1515 Engine Management: Stock R33 Series 1 GTST ECU Fuel: BP Ultimate Boost: ~7psi, drops to ~5psi after 5000rpm (read below) Dyno Results: 138rwkw@6400rpm Costs: Stopped counting No Graph as I don't have a scanner. Figure is extremely low, tried dropping the exhaust in front of the cat, and removing the air filter, minor difference. Biggest issue is the car's hitting anywhere down to 8.5/9:1 AFR and simply isn't burning the fuel. Dyno operator said find the problem, lean it out, and should realistically see 160-170 rwkw on 7psi. Going to carry this over to the "How to turbo your NA" thread for opinions.

Can someone clear this up for me? Does the stock GTST fuel pressure reg increase fuel pressure further if it sees above atmospheric pressure at the manifold? As in, a reg on a NA car operates at atmospheric pressure (wide open throttle) or lower,

Bump

Bumo

Watch Zeitgeist, America CAN'T get out of debt as that's how the system works... They borrow every dollar at interest to private corporations...

Big +1 Technically, Hoon isn't a word...

http://www.webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67:rb-gearbox-a-clutch-info&catid=44:transmission-a-gearbox&Itemid=24 Might help...

Rpm aren't bad. They're the basic generic clutch, comparable to say a basic OEM Exedy kit, Clutch Industries, etc. If you're not pushing crazy power or abusing it it'll hold up fine.

If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for it? Or was it part of a kit? Do you believe it was good value for money in terms of response/feel etc, or would you "not do it again" sort of thing?

Wow. 50,000 out of 68,000 members have voted......

Didn't get a twin-plate for that reason, just a slightly better Exedy item over the factory one. I read that due to the low compression DET engine, take-off and low speed driving can be a p.i.t.a. But figured for a N/A it should be manageable with a reasonable clutch. Drove a GTR with a twin-plate clutch and was not a fan, not for a daily any way.

KH3, that's the one. I was told it's roughly as dark as black gets? Should look good, keen to see photos...

Cheers for the replies! Should have made this a public vote to see who's whoring... Looking like the lightened flywheel is the way to go, so far...