blk94r33

Black, all the way. Not sure about 34's, but i've been told by "my" painter that the 33 Skyline black is STRAIGHT (or damn near) black, meaning it literally doesn't get any blacker. I'd like to see a freshly sprayed one with no imperfections, would look exceptional...

In brief, either my spigot bush or thrust bearing is dying (horrible noises when the clutch is disengaged), so i'm changing my clutch. Already have an Exedy heavy duty clutch kit with new thrust bearing, and got a new rear main, spigot bush and input shaft seal to put in while the gearbox is out. I've been doing alot of reading: http://www.skylinesa...is-it-worth-it/ http://www.skylinesa...tened-flywheel/ http://www.skylinesa...ened-flywheels/ (to name a few) And there are alot of mixed opinions about whether or not a lightened flywheel is worth it. So put together this poll in simple yes/no/unsure style. I can easily get the standard flywheel machined, but I can also get a Nismo Chromoly lightened one at a very good price, and brand new. My car is %100 daily driver at the moment, but once it's up to a "reliable" spec, and the budget allows, I intend to have a go at drag racing, and eventually (long term) some track work. Keeping in mind it's DE+T, so the low end response is already pretty good already, but still looking to improve. All opinions appreciated, and hopefully anyone looking at this in the future can benefit from it.

Out of curiosity, has anyone had problems with the heat from the exhaust are affecting the effective spring rate? Ie higher boost at lower temps, vice versa?

Personally, on my own car where time/cost isn't a big issue, I cut off the plastic covers, crimp the terminals (usually narva items, seem to do the job), solder the joint, quick spray with battery-terminal protector, then heat-shrink. Not only do you get a good looking connection (compared to the tacky plastic covers), but it's also rock-solid, can't corrode, come loose, or burn out....

Lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/328957-interchangeable-coilovers/page__p__5347050__fromsearch__1#entry5347050 There's a bit of info there, thread I tried to start for this reason. According to that, the fronts will swap, but the backs won't?

Yep. Says in the workshop manual the bung is used to drain the coolant completely, rather than just form the radiator, when changing the coolant.

I've done it, quite easy once you remove the factory trim. Bit difficult to explain, but I have 2 pieces of 18mm MDF cut-out and screwed/glued to the left and right sides of the boot floor, sits perfect around the wheel arch/fuel filler neck "intrusion". This gives me a straight edge over-lapping the wheel well hole, under this ledge another 2 strips of MDF protrude about 15mm out either side, and support the big square panel that covers the spare wheel. So long as you use the same thickness material, the center panel is supported on the middle by the spare wheel. Best bet for a template is cardboard, not box style ribbed cardboard, but the good thick stuff used for posters etc. Cut your material a tad bigger then trim to size accordingly. Any help?

May have answered my own question, according to this listing (example only): http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17236&cat=&page=1 It suits both R33 GTST RB25DET and R32GTST RB20DET, since a 33 GTS uses a 32 GTST box, it must use the same clutch...

http://www.skylinesa...ll-type-clutch/ ^There's a link there about the different gearbox and clutch types, very interesting. Would a pre 1997' GTST use the same input shaft as a GTS? Ie. are the clutches interchangeable between RB25DE and RB25DET, or would I be better off ordering one to suit say a R32 variant? As the link shows, the gearboxes are different... Don't want a standard DE clutch due to the car now being DE+T...

~$30 of awesome Tie-rod end/pit-man arm puller, long gone are the frustrating hours of hammering the crap out of, prying, heating, WD-40'ing etc. Put it on, wind in the bolt, CRACK, done!

Cheers for that. Being an "open" needle roller, rather than a sealed type, i'd say they'd fail regularly. Bush it is then.

Apparently R33 GTST's series 1's are push type, series 2 pull type? After some searching... Is it the same for GTS?

Got a similar problem, but my door rattles only when the window is fully up! Winding it down say 3mm stops the noise, but makes a wind leak, pushing on the carpeted section also stops it. Same deal, re-tightened everything, greased everything, taped the lock-rods, nothing seems to stop it...

Found something that might help for anyone searching: Rear Main seal, most engine seals: (note this is for R33 GTS, RB25DE, but the catalogue has other listings) http://catalog.acl.com.au/aclwebcatalog/Modules/Catalog/UsagesSelector.aspx?parent=IT95712&type=TP80&listtype=0 Spigot Bush: (anyone have a listing for a bearing?) http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18007&cat=&page=1 Thrust Bearings: (most kits come with them anyway) http://justjap.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1 If anyone has a number/listing for a needle roller bearing for the spigot, rather than a bush, i'm keen to know...

Bump Does anyone know the part numbers for the rear main seal, gearbox input shaft seal, and spigot bush/bearing for an R33? Even rough dimensions would help?I imagine GTS and GTST would be the same? My spigot is starting to get noisy, and though I might as well replace everything while the box is out.

Bump

You have to realize that all the coil-packs were manufactured the same, and now have done the same number of km's under the same conditions, and are all equally as worn out as each other, as one has failed, you can guarantee that the rest are on their way out. Replace the lot, and fit god plugs while you're there. Otherwise, it'll end up costing you more to have them replaced one by one, and fuel economy etc.

Similar to wheel studs/nuts don't take the torque of the driven hub, the friction generated between the hub and wheel drive it?

I think you mean an alternating bolt PCD? As in not evenly spaced? Alot of flywheels are like this, idea being to keep the flywheel in the same position on the crank as when it was balanced from factory. Just keep turning the flywheel on the crank until it looks like it roughly lines up, fit the bolts say 5-6 turns in, if they all go in easy, you're set, if 2 or three are tight or don't start/line up, turn it to the next spot the holes line up. Does that help?

1 bar is a fair bit through 10:1 compression, and a year isn't bad on an un-opened motor, but I bet you didn't regret a moment when it did go? WYTSKY is running ~19psi from memory?

There was an article in a street commonwhores mag I read a while ago comparing the before and after of a "Hot Earth" kit, ironic name... Gave about 12kw peak gain and moved the power left, there was literally about 20-25 8ga cables running to all the primary bits, such as coils, fuel pump, ECU earth, MAF sensor etc...

I've read a few times that all RB flywheels were the same/interchangeable? Out of interest, anyone know the weight of each??

+1 Realistically, it's not that much more expensive to get good DET power out of a DE+T, yet with more response and the power moved a bit to the left. There are options to oppose detonation at higher boost levels. E85, decent inter-cooler, water-meth injection, but reliability, long-term effectiveness and cost are the factors.

I didn't view the comment that way, so no offence taken. I understand the idea behind the 3" vs. 2.5", and admitted in the thread, that more than likely i'll end up with a 3" system, for now at least i'm happy with the 2.5" set-up, it's dramatically changed the feel of the car, fixed the boost drop, yet keeps it very quiet and no drone. After driving/riding passenger in a mates' car with a 3" system and the basic mods, I hated the sound of it and the drone at ~2750rpm @100kph, with at high-flow cat, muffler and cannon, I know a better system could eliminate these problems, personal preference I suppose... In the exhaust theory thread, it states bigger is better at the start of the system, so a 3" dump/front will be the next step provided I don't encounter detonation on the dyno. If with the exhaust dropped and a 3" front i see a ~+%10 difference, then i'll switch to 3", if i gain less than ~%10rwkw, then i'm not going to bother until I find the bottle-neck. 10 degrees ambient temperature and an average air filter would find %10rwkw...