blk94r33

Waitwut? Sarcasm right?

$70 delivered? PM me pics?

+1 for Yellowjackets Had mine in for ~8months and 20,000km now after the old ones started to die. NGK Platinum plugs gapped to 1.1mm, no woes, now running 5psi and still good.

I rented this, on PS3, thankfully for one night, with a $2.95 video ezy voucher. I want my $2.95 back. -The bots are dumb and painful. They run around in groups until one guy hits the lot with a shotgun/grenade/molotov and takes out everyone including your medic/s. -You have to do EVERYTHING yourself. No point being a medic when you need to blow something up, hack a computer etc. Spent 3/5ths of the mission time smashing through and guarding the safe (2nd mission?), only to go back to the command post, change characters and crack the damn thing myself. -Character customization was win, yet fail to see the point when you don't look at yourself. -"SMART" seemed cool, yet resulted in you jumping over things that you could run around more quickly. -The entire campaign is unlocked from the start, what's the deal with the throw-away plot? So I returned the game....

My thoughts also, I read somewhere that the ECU uses the knock sensors to switch between high and low ignition maps, rather than actively change the timing? Thus the reason I stopped and restarted the car, yet it still felt crap? I'm looking to get the timing set properly, checked for knock, A/F checked and a power run within a week, just thought it was a bit strange?

Hi all Recently completed my DE+T, as a result, set the timing to ~12 degrees BTDC from ~15 BTDC for a run-in period (using a Snap-On timing light, on the wire loop near the ignitor, with the TPS disconnected, coolant temp at 83 degrees). Car is running about 5psi, straight off the actuator, plumbed into the turbo outlet. Has now been running smooth for a week, so decided to try advancing the timing to get better fuel economy and power. Tonight, advanced it back to ~15 BTDC (as above) and the car feels like the timing is way out, gets onto boost but just doesn't "move" and is generally sluggish. Switched it off for a few minutes, re-started, same thing. Back to my work. re-set it to ~13 BTDC and took it for another spin, much much better and more responsive. Everything I've read both on here and the engine manual says that to advance the timing, rotate the CAS ANTI-CLOCKWISE when looking at the front of the car. This corresponds to the timing moving on the balancer. Have gone from just "right" of the 2nd mark from the TDC orange mark (~12), up to the third mark where the car felt slow (~15), now back to roughly the middle of the 2nd and 3rd marks. (~13). Have I simply found the mark of "peak torque" at the current setting with nothing to gain with more advance? Any advice? Other than but a GTST? Mods: -Stock GTS RB25de -Platinum plugs, yellowjackets, walbro fuel pump, BP Ultimate -Stock R34 turbo, stock R33 GTST exhaust, ECU, injectors, SMIC

I'd be 99% sure it'd be a fuse, as it's the "first defence" from the terminals. Did you check all three fue boxes? -Under the driver side dash -Next to the battery -The big black box in the engine bay

Same reason people spend money on R32 RB20DET's, "just get a 33 with a RB25DET" You buy the 33, "Get a GTR, you're wasting your money on the 25" You get a 33 GTR, "you should've gotten a 34, they're a better looking car" It'll never end How is spending money on a N/A any different to the same mods for a turbo, that in most cases to get something WORTH buying, you spend more on the initial purchase? "Turbo brakes are better" And? Spend ~500, get the hubs etc. slap em' on, and get your DBA4000's and good pads that all the GTST owners upgrade to anyway... Why all the N/A hate? Should I troll the forced induction section telling all GTST owners to buy GTR's? All GTR owners that 26's are crap, and to build a hybrid? Not a personal attack, just don't get it...

LOL Any 10/30W oil will suit. If you live in an average >25 degree area, use 15/40W...

You seem pretty keen on the DE+T? As I said, your decision, there's extra risks associated with the conversion, but may work out less than swapping to a GTT. And despite what everyone says, you can't run 20psi through a RB25DET with just a PFC, they will both require the same mods for the same gains... Does your car have GT-V brakes?

DP

So you've already done/doing the following?: -Panel filter -Exhaust -Wheels.tyres -Bodykit going on -Shocks, swaybars Do you still have the standard gear to change back onto the car, if you bought a GTT? Your best bet to help weigh up the decision: -Look around and find out what your car is realistically worth -As above, but for a GTT -Factor in what extras will be incurred by the change over: RWC, rego, extra insurance, personal attatchment, etc etc. -Make a decision I went with the DE+T as i'd already done alot of work to my car and CBF changing it over. And finding a GTST for the price and condition of my GTS minus mods? Probally not. Along with the fact that adding a turbo to a R33 is a bit cheaper and easier than a 34. Check out WYTSKTY and Dori34's cars as good examples of DE+T potential. In the end, it's your decision...

Price?

Back again! Got the car back at 4pm on friday, just in time for the weekend! Had to plumb in the BOV return and rocker cover breather, took it to my work, and used the scan tool to take the base timing from ~15 BTDC, down to a measly ~8 BTDC. Sh*t for power, yet nice and safe until I can get it checked for knock, combine that with factory actuator pressure (only getting what I guess to 5-6psi at the engine, as the wastegate line is plumbed directly to the turbo outlet), and the standard GTST ECU running it rich, I doubt the car should go bang any time soon. The result? Definately worth the time and money. Car has alot more sting, yet the power comes in nice and smooth and holds until redline. More updates once the timing is set properly and hopefully a power figure!

Had a quick flick through, but has anyone suggested "boxing" the carby? For terms of simplicity and dirt cheap cost, you could run a smallish single injector that comes on with boost, rigged up to the distributor for switching/duration to match the engine speed, but obviously will require a high pressure pump and some electronics....

Guard liners? Series 1?

Hi all DE+T is finally (almost) up and running, took the car to get the intercooler piping made up at 2pm today, quite excited, and thought i'd try to do a bit of a write up of my experience. My car is a Series 1 R33 2 door, RB25DE. Had already upgraded to platinum plugs, yellowackets and a Walbro fuel pump previously. Almost all parts were sourced from the forum, with only a few new bits being required. Rough cost breakdown (including freight): Turbo (370cc) injectors, rail and regulator, stock exhaust manifold, and stock BOV, ~$200 R33 standard intercooler, ECU, oil and coolant feed lines, crossover pipe, some piping/joiners ~$125 R34 NEO turbo, ~75,000km, banjo bolts to suit ~$450 Dump, front, and standard intake pipe ~$120 New bits: Gasket set (manifold, turbo, dump, front pipe, turbo oil return pipe, turbo outlet) ~$78 Fittings/hoses/sealant, nuts/bolts etc ~$100 (fair estimate) Stuff you will NEED, but might not buy: Copper washers for the bango bolts on the oil/coolant lines. Depending on your car, a way to return the used oil form the turbo to the sump, remember it's gravity fed. Nuts and washers to hold the dump pipe and turbo inplace, factory nuts secure the manifold and front pipe. CRC/WD40/Inox-will save alot of pain. 12mm ratchet ring spanner to remove the top of the intake manifold, f*** doing it any other way, I found this easiest. I think that's everything there, so far ~$1100 All up I think the conversion took me about 10 hours, could have been alot quicker, but I didn't have EVERY part I needed handy such as sealant, nuts, bolts, hoses, clamps etc that I had to source, and making up a water return line, "T-eeing" in the oil return line, BOV, IAC lines, etc etc all takes time. Having a complete RB25DET (blown engine in a shell for example) would have been ideal and quicker. Now to fit everything. I started by taking off the exhaust heat shield, and drowning every visible exhaust fastener in Inox (WD40, CRC), to give them time to soak, same underneath the car. Removed the top section of the intake manifold, out with the old fuel rail assembly, and in with the new rail ready to go with injectors and regulator. I did try to remove the injectors to change over the pintle caps as some were damaged, but couldn't remove them without risking breaking them. Refitted the top section of the intake manifold. Now the important bit. Removed the oxygen sensor, unbolted the front pipe and standard manifold with NO breakage! Gave the head and manifold a thorough clean with carby cleaner and scotch brite, for some reason the maniold would not fit straight on, so had to die grind out some of the stud holes. New gasket on with some copper maxx sealant, and tightened the manifold to the head using the oldnuts and washers. Removed the blanking bolts for the oil and coolant feed, caught the coolant. Fitted the turbo with a new gasket, and had to buy nuts and washers to fit it into place. Now things got difficult and time consuming. The stock coolant and oil feed lines went straight into place with the banjo bolts and new washers. The coolant return line i had to make. I used a 18mmX1.5mm to 1/2" barb fitting on the turbo, into a 1/2" heater line fitted with a unicoil and 300mm section of 1" hose over it to protect it from the exhaust. This then ran into the top radiator hose, I had previously fitted an after-market temp gauge, and tapped another 1/2" barb fitting into the gauge sender adapter to return coolant from the turbo. The oil return was fun too. The VCT oil drain rubber hose is 5/8", the turbo drain line is 3/4". I teed into the VCT return line from the head using a 5/8" t-piece, then cut and shrunk down the standard metal fitting off the turbo, and connected the t piece to the VCT line using oil and heat proof hose (has about a 6mm wall thickness, and doesn't kink easily.) This worked ok, and the fitting is lower than the turbo, will have to wait to see how it works, but didn't get smoke on cold startup or idle through to running temp. Dump and front pipe bolted directly in. I think my rear pipe is standard, only the muffler has been changed. Intercooler was mounted in front of the drivers wheel using a bracket made out of strips of 2mmX25mm sheet metal. I didn't want to cut holes in the engine bay to run the cooler, and after talking to the piping guy, decided this was the best spot as it would simplify and cheapen the piping. The stock intake hose is no good with the stock airbox (too short, wrong angles), one is being made up and having bungs for the BOV and breathers welded in. ECU is a simple unbolt and swap job. Primed oil pressure, started the car, re-filled and bled the cooling system, checked the whole set-up for leaks (thankfully none). Not sure if it's a placebo effect, new exhaust, but the car sounded a bit nicer/tougher. Had to do a temporary fit of the AFM, and limped (idled) down the road for inter-cooler and intake piping. Hopefully tomorrow get to pick it up! If anyone has any questions post them here and i'll try answer, as I had trouble getting answers prior to the conversion. Will update when i get the car back.

Front guard liners?

My point exactly, but with vacuum not pressure. Precisely. I'd rather remove the sump to check the oil pick up than the engine to rebuild it...

Hey mate Got a full set of stock springs and shocks, minus the upper mounts/tops as they're still on the car. Upgraded to KYB adjustable items and king springs.

Bump 2XR33 S1 guard liners wanted...

That's where we're heading. Look at the last 5 years, especially in Victoria, vehicle standards have tightened, hoon laws introduced, more and more places are giving up issuing RWC's as it's simply too much of a PITA. Recently the new ESP law, which had special exemptions for cars that don't have ESP (f****** lol, wtf was the point), it'll keep going until the public majority feels safe or has something bigger to fear, and the police sent out to control that menace. As long as the majority of voters *THINKS* that whoever they voted in is doing their job by controlling these menacing "hoons", as suicide rates, road conditions or any other problem gets ignored, the people creating these new laws will stay exactly where they want, in power, getting paid. Democracy isn't about what's wrong or right or best for the majority or the long run, it's about keeping just enough people satisfied that they can re-elect you. Same deal with gun laws, the alcohol/drugs/marijuana battle, liquor licensing. if you tallied everyone who opposes each item, they would BECOME the majority, unfortunately it doesn't work like that... I'm ranting alot lately, no more coffee for me..

I was going to say it if you didn't. Good ol' nanny Vic sure as f*** won't go backwards with traffic laws or vehicle standards, there's simply too much money to be made by keeping the current system and continually tightening it until the only option will be to buy a brand new car, and crush it when it's due for the 1000km service... It'd be good if Vic would go to a, better, vehicle standards system, but it still won't: -Fix the roads -Change the hoon laws -Do anything about reducing road toll or the number of casualties And end of the day, would you rather your car be harder to get on the road, or harder to keep there?

F***. Never thought if it like that, nice angle! Haha. What is a pisser is when they admit they get it wrong, and the story they just aired with black and white slow-mo out of focus mis-guiding video of someone who is accused of selling drugs to pre-schoolers or something, turns out to be the squeaky clean white collar kinda person with a family of four and regularly donates to charity. And they throw in a 3 second apology "we were wrong, about everything, kthxbi" to mask up a 15 minute dragged out story containing mostly interviews form "secret" informants who once sold the guy some panadol and they think he's a real dodgey prick. Then a segue to: "And now, modified car events, they're all bast**ds, heres some footage of someone doing a skid at power-cruise, it's loud and visually aggressive, be scared of it and call someone next time you see a car!!!"

Lol at the practicality of crushing "hoon" cars. "Well, the car was deemed safe to be released to the owner after 2 offences, but now we've deemed that EVERY part of the vehicle is too unsafe for 2nd hand parts or sale, so we'll crush it and make a big fancy scene..."