blk94r33

Lol. My bad. Just used that as an example as we had that exact car with aforementioned owner in for work the other day, makes you wonder how they keep the damn things on the road... And they sure as hell would never pass a road worthy inspection if they ever did get defected... Yet if I changed my exhaust, legal car, but I have a higher chance of getting defected... /second rant

Is a 32 different to a 33? Every time i've been under my car the only way I can see to remove the sump is K-frame out or engine out?

No, and couldn't care less. Or about the one before that, and before that, and before that, or any other melodramatic media bulls*** they can brew up to publicize the wrong doings of a minority of "motorists" making life hard for honest citizens whose hobby isn't knitting, lawn bowls, golf, going to bed by 8pm, or watching Today Tonight. There will be another hoon story every time grandma >insert typical 1940's name< sees a car that is different to her Cortina (with stuffed tyres, suspension, brakes, lights blowing smoke at every throttle application and rusted out body patched with duct tape, a vehicle that is ACTUALLY dangerous on the roads, wielded by a driver who can't see any further than the windscreen or apply her shot brakes with arthritic legs), and comes to the conclusion that after years of media smothering about the modified car culture and how much of a mob of basta**s every last one of them is, should call someone and whine about how once there was a car that had one wheel go through a full revolution without the vehicle moving in piss**g rain. Budget is out by $50 billion now, clean your windscreens so the yellow stickers stick easily.... /rant

Sump off/engine out, check it properly. You can have pressure, but if the pick-up/mounting is cracked, it can suck air and f*** stuff...

Clock-spring /thread If you've taken a steering wheel off before, you'll notice there's a brass bush sprung against a round wheel, that transmits power (or usually earth) to the horn button, so that the wheel can rotate lock to lock without breaking wires etc. Problem being that this might be OK for a horn button, but for something like an airbag that needs a guaranteed connection %100 of the time in the event of an accident, not so good. So they use a clock-spring (google it), a continuous piece of wire that can operate with the wheel turning, and incorporate the horn button wiring (usually) into it as well. But now that the cars 10+ years old, 100,000+km, and has gone through 1000's of turns, they wear out. Best bet, get it checked by a workshop with a compatible scan tool, and they should be able to determine the fault.

That's the problem, the adapter I have only brings the sender out from the block about 10mm, a T-piece style one (was hoping to hook up the factory warning light too) would have worked out about 30mm, that's alot of stress one one fitting given heat, movement of the engine, vibration and the weight of the senders waving about. I imagine if you could brace the top to the block somehow, it might help?

There are a few ways to deter a thief, but as above, if the c***s want something badly enough... 1. Regarding the body kit. You could try a good sikaflex/urethane and the "one-way" screws that you can buy for number plates, problem being if you ever want to remove any part of the kit, you'd have to cut it off to remove the "glue", and there's an increased risk of it being broken and left on the car if they have another dig at it. 2. Security nuts, providing they're the type that use an INTERNAL socket, not external (ie. a pattern on the inside and round on the outer, so that no-one can just hammer a plain socket on) are a good idea to help protect your wheels. And don't chuck the socket to un-do them in the glovebox as it defies the point, attach it to your keys where possible. But again, it'll raise the risk of someone breaking in or breaking a window to find the socket. 3. As above, a decent alarm with shock/level sensors will help.

Any good bearing/hose/hydraulics shop should be able to help you out. Only cost me $5.

Yep, British Standard Pipe, weird huh? Fitted a new oil pressure gauge to my car the other day, had to get a NPT-->BSP adapter, as the NPT thread would screw in and seal, but only by 3-4 threads and I didn't trust it, so checked the thread, and BSP it was...

Definite +1 If you can get someone who knows a bit, and takes pride in their work/project/car, and they're not busy (or a dick), you'll get stuck talking for quite some time. And once you understand the basics of how an engine works, you'll start to get the reasons people change various parts and for what reason/improvement.

Cheers mate. You wouldn't happen to sell them?

Just a quick question guys, got these injectors off the forum for my DE+T, and have noticed some of the little 4 pronged plastic claws on the end (that look like they hold the "nozzle" in) are damaged: (Sorry for the hurried camera phone pic) Basically: -Are they safe to use, or am I risking the nozzle going into the motor? -Is there anything else holding the nozzle in? Glue etc.? Cheers, Josh

+1 VW Golf Gti (I think) turbo diesel manual. Crazy quick for the engine and completely unexpected. But you have to shift gears like a crazy mofo.

Go to a library, ask for the motoring/mechanic/engineering section. I have a book called "Introduction To Motor Mechanics". Covers all the basics and some semi in-depth stuff, and did help a bit through trade school. Find a book similar and you'll learn quickly. On a side note, wtf is with that? Flicking through a "Street Commodore" mag at smoko the other day, candy red VE, 20"s, CAI, zorst, with >12< 7 inch screens, in stupid places such as in the lower section of the back door (the bit that "butts" up to the rear seat) wtf? Or a classic on Pimp My Ride ages ago, where they fitted a screen, facing downward, above the spare wheel UNDER the vehicle so the owner could "watch stuff while changing his tyre"?

F***! LOL

Bump Have sorted the return line with a bit of imagination, still chasing guard liners!

As above, a shop with GOOD equipment, not a dirt floor and wonky trolley jack. I know the Snap-On Modis at my work does the R33 computers as I've used it a few times on my own car, surely there'd be others such as Bosch who make a tool to converse with imports?

Precisely. Qualified mechanic, in the trade for 5 years now, and have no hesitations working on any make/model/year. Prefer to avoid European cars as they're over-engineered and over-complicated. Yet it seems to be the typical mantra that any non ford/holden is "not worth the trouble". They don't have left handed threads everywhere waiting to be snapped, cranky electronics or any bits that operate differently from any other car (except HICAS, but that's not general servicing). Changing oils, plugs, filters, belts, pads etc is NOT a complicated exercise on Japanese cars. After having mine and other mates' plugs out and in a few times, i'd rather change 2 sets of RBs' than one GENIII set. Find a good general service workshop, someone "larger" than a two man crew, in a shop that has the equipment, knowledge, experience and confidence to work on your car. Otherwise, find someone on the forum who's either a mechanic or handy with tools, that is willing to do cashy's, will work out cheaper, you may get to supervise, help and learn in the process.

Yeah, but posting N/A questions elsewhere results in -Flames -"SEARCH!" -Link to the search bar -"Have you tried searching?" -"Buy a turbo model!" While posting in the N/A section results in: -The occasional useful answer or; -0 responses (ie. How To Turbo Your N/A thread)

A permanent solution though, something to mount in-cab?

Turbo goes on in two weeks, and I can get away from the NA section, yay!

Wideband is easy to come by, but what accurate, adjustable knock detection is available? Ie. No point having a knock light if it's set to the wrong frequency for the car. And from what i've searched people have had trouble with the SAFC/ii etc knock detection?

I think it'd look good. I imagine if you got someone who knows their s*** to attach it properly with urethane/sikaflex or the like (as dodgey as it sounds), I don't think it'd be that hard to get a smooth transition rather than a "hard" edge.

Bump One water line and bolts guys, surely someone has upgraded to braided ones?

This is almost every tank since I've owned the car: (L/100km) BP-98 My driving is mostly to work etc/city, so maybe %75 town,%24 highway, %1 warm up/idling/listening to tunes etc. -10.04 -9.45 -11.94 -11.70 -12.07 I think it was roughly here that I changed my plugs and fitted Yellow-Jackets, above averages to 11.04 -10.21 -11.70 -11.79 -10.92 -14.90 -11.78 -17.70 -8.25 -8.89 -11.90 -11.75 -12.09 -11.38 -10.89 -13.10 And that lot averages 11.81 Now I've changed my O2 sensor, reset the TPS and changed the fuel pump and filter, last two tanks: -10.18 -13.85 But have definitely noticed a good average improvement compared to before. 8.25 lowest, 17.70 highest. (being a good highway run, and one tank flogged around town) As above, definitely recommend a good "tune up", service and change (if not done already) plugs, coil-packs, fuel filter, O2 sensor, reset your timing and TPS, clean your MAF sensor and air filter (or replace), and check your tyre pressures and alignment, you'll notice a much nicer, smoother car to drive and better economy.