blk94r33

Hey mate, cheers for your reply. Had a good read through the workshop manual, and established that: -The line that goes beneath the exhaust manifold is actually the feed line, not return, the return line runs to the intake manifold, behind the head. -The heater "feed" hose, is the one that eventually connects to the "rear" of the throttle body, closest to the firewall. So i'm sure I can get something together. I've looked and looked, is the heater tap the plastic piece that all 4 hoses run to directly behind the cylinder head, mounted to the firewall? As it doesn't look like any heater tap i've ever seen.

Keen on the stock water return/feed lines and banjo bolts that secure them, along with the guard liners. Price?

Bump

Sure it's not your AAC valve? (Not to be confused with IAC)

Anyone??

Found some of the answers: Where specifically is the heater tap? Which line did you tap into? Upper or lower (on the firewall)? And can anyone confirm which line is feed and return for the heater? I'd guess the one with the heater tap is the feed line?

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67259066.html http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/1300173-Heating-Suspension-Parts http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/76460-seized-track-rod.html http://www.eurodrivers.ca/forums/showthread.php?19898-This-pinch-bolt-is-going-poorly http://www.lada.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3357&sid=c626a621f688c618d650387c2df9247f http://www.zcar.com/84-89_tech_discussion_forum/what_should_i_use_burn_my_bushings_739767.15.html

Few questions, I have almost everything sorted, but am having trouble with one water line so am looking at tapping the heater lines: 1. How are people plumbing their water lines, ie: are you using one heater line so the coolant leaving/entering the heater core flows through the turbo then back (in-line with ONE heater hose, sort of like series) or "tee-ing" into both and running the turbo in "parallel"? 2. If using the above in-line method, does anyone know which heater hose is the return/feed to the engine? And is it possible to tee into one line, and use the factory return line to the block beneath the exhaust manifold without any other issues? 3. Is there any kind of heater tap/restriction in the heater lines that can prevent coolant flow to the turbo, and needs to be tapped "downstream" of? 4. Finally, what is the internal diameter of the heater lines, from what I can ind it's 5/8th's correct? Cheers, Josh

Heating suspension components, not such a good idea... You're better off using a air-hacksaw or manual one to cut through the rubber and steel outer, then remove them with an air chisel. Might sound rough, but works a treat, and changing the rear-upper arm bushes is a fair pain to do manually without decent equipment or portable press.

Bump Everything sourced apart from the above items. Guard liners can be off a GTS or GTST, I threw my old ones out (stupid idea) and need replacements. Need the coolant line within a month as i'm starting the conversion then.

Lol "We really don't want to do this" *punches motorist in face, steals wallet* "But you'll be glad to know we are actively opposing this sort of behavior"

LOL, maybe they should just be banned from driving the top 2 groups of "hoon" vehicles. But then we'd get more getting caught speeding or upside down in skylines. I like the way they create what, 5 sets of P Plate laws yet the statistics don't move? 125kw/T won't stop a car doing 200km/h into a tree, or remove the drivers "want" to drive at 200km/h, or prevent them driving the speed limit in fog and rain.

Still illegal -Skyline headlights are designed for a normal halogen bulb, HID's change the focal point, giving of massive glare for other drivers -As above, auto levelling suspension -The washers need to operate every 5th hit of the windscreen washers (I think), not just on a switch Unless you retro-fitted a skyline another cars headlights designed for HID's, and auto leveling suspension, washers, then got the car engineered, they're still technically going to be illegal.

Dangerous choice of username... Is the alternator light on before 1500rpm? Have you checked the voltage with a multimeter?

Still chasing: -Stock coolant feed line (one that runs from the back of the head) -Pair of R33 S1 GTST or GTS guardliners

I know you are but what am I...

Er, no. But on a serious note, diesel requires higher compression than petrol, ie 18:1 , RB25DET has around 9.5:1, meaning you can run lots of boost, no complications. Win. Lol. Win. 7. Disconnect waste-gate. Low compression will require higher air flow. That's how I read it?

9.5:1 compression+diesel=win Conversion is easy, do it. Period. That is all...

Are the front guard liners in good nick/undamaged? (bits that go in-front of the wheels, behind the inter-cooler area, and attach to the bar, not the upper bits inside the guard itself)

This, is, horse s***. How the hell do they intend to keep this in? 1kph? How long does it take the average car to accelerate 1kph over the limit without the driver intending or noticing? 1,2 seconds? More, less? Even factory and after-market cruise controllers sometimes struggle to regulate your speed within 3kph. Do they honestly believe a driver should be checking their speedo LITERALLY every second? How the F*** is that logical or safe? A slight decline in the road over 2 or 3 seconds could do this. For those whose speedos read within 1 or 2kph lower, and DON'T intentionally speed, you're all about to get f***** hard...

Interested in the dump and front pipes. PM'ing you now.

Thread is win. I can definitely relate to at least %90 of the posts... You know you drive a skyline when... -Spending double, triple, or even more than the cars value on mods is reasonable to you. -You get confused when people get dramatic about you telling them the above figure. -Yellow speed signs are half the speed you should use through the corner, comfortably. -The only Skyline left in your Skyline is the shell, badges, lights and block.

Cheers I assumed it was the original with the Nissan/Jecs brandings. Walbro's in now, much quieter and is doing the job thus far. I guess 17 years on things don't need to be as bulky anymore...

Hi all, will try to be as brief as possible. Original problem: -Fuel pump has been noisy in car since purchase, never gave trouble, just noticeable when priming or with the back seat out. -In the process of re-doing my boot install for more "oomph" and boot room using a custom box, I need to seal over the pump access hatch with seam sealer. -After this, changing the pump if it dies will require 2-3 hours work to access and re seal the hatch. Solution: -Bought a Walbro GSS-341, which will support any future needs power wise, and prevent the current pump dying down the track. New problem: -Went to fit the pump tonight, after removing the assembly the pump is at least 2 times bigger than the Walbro: And has these markings: Jecs A42-T02 12v * 000 4222 Made in Japan The * denoting the Nissan branding with the rectangle and circle. From a quick search on google and here, I established that Jecs is like Bosch and makes OEM electronics, but the numbers don't match anything? Is this pump the original, 160,000 km old item, a genuine replacement, or an upgrade? Should I still replace it with the Walbro item? Any help appreciated as I'm trying to get the car back together now.

I like the part where the non turbo RB30 with a turbo that doesn't have a turbo cos it's NA made 200kw...