blk94r33

Lol. 1 turn lock-to-lock?

Good point, I just assumed he meant ratio with the first post? I still think shortening the hub-to-tie-rod end arm would be a step in the right direction, as it would effectively change the ratio without affecting the steering rack/mounting. I.e. if a car has 2 turns from center to lock, causing the tie-rod end to move 8 inches (example only) causing the hub/wheel to rotate say 45 degrees, by shortening the hub-to-tie-rod-end arm, the tie rod would have to move less distance left/right (say 6 inches) for the same change in wheel angle, meaning the car would only have 1.5 turns from center to lock. Is this what you're after PM-R33? A skyline with the steering ratio literally of a go-kart, surely some-one's thought of it?

I think it would be worth the effort. But like anything, modifying (cutting/welding/retro-fitting) suspension/steering components is hard to keep legal. But since you already have an after-market turbo, boost controller and NOS, I doubt you're fussed? Finding a rack that has a lower ratio and bolts straight in would be the most straight-forward, failing that, getting new hubs made up (ie. CNC machined copies) with shorter arms between the knuckle and tie-rod end might be next? I don't think physically changing the ratio inside the steering rack would be easy...

So your saying that by changing the steering rack, it'd have NO effect on the weight of the steering? The rack-ratio will definitely affect the steering. Try lifting 250kg (item A) off the ground with a single pulley and rope (item B), then with a 3 pulley system, by changing the ratio you affect how much item B has to move to affect item A, but reduce the "effort", and vice versa... Similar to changing the diff ratio in a car, the tail-shaft needs to turn quicker to get the same wheel speed, but the car can accelerate quicker as the engine has more "power" over the diff. Or simpler again, try taking off in 5th instead of 1st... There's alot of cars out there without power steering, but the steering is relatively light due to the gearing of the rack...

Also, after reading through your mods, how direct do you want to go??? I've done similar suspension work and know that the steering/handling/response feels very tight and direct compared to stock?

I think you might be opening a big can of worms trying something like this, and needless to say, any mod like that would make the steering heavier, but... You could try and retro-fit a lower ratio rack, or.. The best way i could think of would be to "take" the tie rod end closer to the strut, by shortening the arm (or re-drilling the hole for the tie-rod end) on the hub that link the two. But i highly doubt it'd be legal (like anything), or the effect it'd have on steering angles/strength etc. Make sense?

Bahaha. Gold!!! That's almost sig-worthy... As above...

SOOO true it's not funny. Alot of people have poor scope of performance cars. Anyone who sees my car straight away goes "is it manual?" "yes" "nice, it's a gtr right?" "no, GTS, non-turbo RWD" "oh" *akward silence* "they made non turbos?" "yep, i'm driving one" "why didn't you get a turbo?" If it doesn't have cut 3" lowering springs, it's not performance suspension. Sway-bars, bush kits, decent/adjustable shocks, strut-braces, comfortable "usable" springs and the fact the car drives like a go-kart are all wank factor. The only sub or stereo to have is a pre-made Fusion "powered enclosure", and it can never be secured in the car. The Holden 5 litre is the pinnacle of engineering, succeeded only by a 5.7. A 2.5 making 500rwhp is "bullshit". Rim's smaller than 20" and more expensive than $800 a set are "crap", stockies on the back mean you're bad-ass and society can't stop you. I have respect for all performance cars. We had an LS1 N/A in a VY sedan in at work making around the 500hp mark for a clutch, the thing running would make anyone smile, myself included. I just get really bugged with the 2-litre-juice-only view, the ones who are programmed to say "omg skyline is it full hectic bro sik!" and laugh in your face, especially when they're 24 y.o.'s still on their L's. /rant

If it makes you feel any better, I know exactly how you feel. Hit a roo, munted the factory bar and headlight, decided to go to something a bit more aggressive looking. Got the same bar on my car, after alot of effing around, fitting, removing, refitting, adjustment etc. etc, it fitted pretty neatly and was very happy with it. Survived for a couple months, didn't scrape anywhere so long as I didn't try it square on at 60kph, then hit a big %&*# &*%%&*#*#& #^%&$* (##(#&&&%* $**##!@#$ %*% pothole, f***** the R/H side and bent my guard, while waiting to get it fixed, magpie went into it and took out 2 bits of mesh, then hit another mother (*&$%^$!$%*() roo, massive split right down the middle of the bar. FML. Now it looks like shit and I hate it... Does anyone make aftermarket plastic bars that are a bit more, flexible? Re-usable? Under the conditions the fiberglass has faired well but I think a plastic one would be alot more durable?

Where you located? PM me and I might be able to help.

I think 80kph IS the cut-in speed for the HICAS? Reason people disable it...

Oh ok. So if my maths is right: 70psi base pressure+10 fuel pressure regs=700psi?

And will I be able to run 500 hp through my RB30DETT with 270cc injectors if I use octane booster in the E85?

Pretty shabby for someone form the UK? I thought they spoke English?

1. More info needed on the amp sub combo. If you have single 4 ohm voice coil subs wired this way, it'll give you a 8 ohm load at the amp, you need to check the amp can handle this and what output it will provide with this configuration, as you may be able to get more power from the amp wiring it differently. 2. YES, a circuit breaker/fuse is needed in the system to avoid a catastrophic melt down if something goes wrong. As Bundy Bear said, as close to the battery as possible whilst still practical.

Definite +1 Funny how something as simple as painting bits of your interior changes the driving experience, even on a small level...

+1 for the journey/learning curve. To date, including buying the car, i've spent around $18k on what is still a pretty basic GTS, and that's with doing all the work myself. But I still think it's worth it. The satisfaction of knowing every time I drive it that it is MY car due to the way I have modified it, and enjoyed doing so along the way, is much greater than what you could get going out and buying a car that already has the bells and whistles. Be prepared to live off Coles $4 pizzas, but you won't regret it...

Lol

^^^THIS^^^ The aforementioned VT/VX with said blown brake lights getting around in bog stock form, but with the kebab spec chromies, canvas flailing wildly.

Lol Can the car safely run 15 PSI through the floor mats? What's 15 PSI in BAR?

Had to do all 4 boots on the front of a 33 GTR not so long ago, i'd imagine the 32 is similar? Simply put, it sucks, you have very little room to move in there due to the suspension/brakes etc. being in the way, so completely removing the shaft is the best bet unless you want to fit those horrible universal stretch-fit boots that last 5-10 minutes. On the 33, the L/H shaft unbolted from the diff flange and simply pulled out, however for the R/H shaft I found it was easier/quicker to remove the diff backnig plate and pry the shaft out, after spending a while with 2 prybars and no avail. Take note of how you disassemble the CV's though (if you're fitting the proper boots) as they're only meant to go together in a certain order and components can be fitted on the shaft backwards...

Front's pretty easy too mate. You may want to undo the front caster rods to get access to the front bolts for the "D" clamps, other than that it's no harder than the rear. Make sure you lube up the bushes good and proper though or they'll squeak. Also, if you do take the caster rods off, be sure to loctite the bolts when putting them back in.

Anyone working in any part of the automotive industry will have horror stories to fit in this thread, good idea Some of the shockers i've seen in my 5 years: VK Vacationer wagon, caliper slides seized on the L/H/F wheel, wore the brake pad down, through the metal backing, half way into the rotor (into the ventilation slots), kept chewing at the caliper piston until it fell out, and why did the customer bring the car in? Not because of the generally horrible noises/lack of drive-ability, but because the master cylinder ran out of fluid and the brake light was on. Tyres so badly worn (typically on early IRS Commodores VS/T/X) that they're down to the canvas and leaking air, customers want the leak "fixed". Pajero that hadn't been serviced in 30,000+km, no brake pads, tyres, oil, drive-line fluids, lights, suspension bushes, customer wonders why the repairs cost 4 figures. Another car that hasn't had a service in years, oil light comes on, they keep driving till it it stops, call RACV, I call them to ask what happened etc. and they ask me to bring out more oil, not a tow truck. Vehicles that haven't had a timing belt/water pump in 300,000+ km, it breaks and they don't understand that just changing the belt might not fix it. Seized idler/tensioner pulley bearings, belts that are way over-due to be changed, hoses that have been leaking for months, all common place. I'll try think up some more funny ones and post them up.

Hi all, as anyone with a PS3 and Modern Warfare 2 may be aware, there is a problem withe the offline multi-player profiles, in which you'll play along for a few months and all-of-a-sudden, the PS3 decides it can't load your level 37 offline profile and you have to start again. Simply put, I'm looking for some help form someone who has PERMANENTLY fixed this problem as i've tried the following to no avail: 1. The "fix" where you save the offline profile to a USB, delete all MW2 data from the PS3, update the system (went to version 3.50), then re-install it. 2. Deleting the "Game Data Utility"for MW2, re-loading the game data, and re-loading the profiles. 3. Resetting the system by holding the power button for 5-8 seconds (don't think this did anything really). 4. Swearing and stamping my feet. 5. Keeping no more than 2 offline profiles saved at one time. 6. Keeping other offline profiles saved, using one "good" profile, then loading the other before turning off the system. Yes, I ensure the system gets shut-down correctly as this is apparently what causes the problem in the first place. As above, the software is Version 3.50, which is meant to fix it. No, I don't want to "get a life" and stop playing. No, I don't want a f****** fail box 360. No, my PS3 isn't connected directly to the internet, I use my computer for that. Yes, the MW2 offline profiles are the ONLY problem I have, all other aspects of the game and PS3 are fine. /Rant Any help appreciated as I'm sick of watching You-Tube tutes' that don't work and trawling through page after of Google searches...

I'm %99 sure in Vic the rear window can be as dark as %5? As it's the same circumstance as a ute having a toolbox mounted in the back that blocks the rear window...