blk94r33

There's been alot of talk about this everywhere, and bottom line, Ryco are better or same-as most genuine filters in terms of flow, filtration, life etc. etc.

%10-%30 improvement? Lol. I could make my car get down to 6L/100km.... Send me $10 and i'll tell you to turn the A/C off...

Any advice on how to remove the power window "Auto" light on R33? Had everything disassembled so I could see the globe, but buggered if I could get it out...

If he doesn't want/know how to fit a pressure gauge, how is he going to fit a pump???

Wouldn't de-turboing a GTST for P-Plates be the most asked?

Got a 34 turbo do do my DE+T soonish. Would you know what the stock actuator pressure is? 7psi?

+1 You'll need to check them while the car is breaking down/driving/under load though, as if it sits and idles ok most of the time then testing the alternator then might not tell you anything...

You can buy el' cheapo remote single point immobilisers with a central locking kit from repco or any where now days. Provided it's properly installed and hidden it'll do the trick...

+1 Sounds a bit like an earth problem as the symptoms come and go and affect hot-starting and make it cut out. Could also be your alternator... Got a volts gauge or one you can hook up? If your getting a flat battery while driving (which seems to be what your describing), it'll cause these symptoms...

Cheers, will read through it tonight. I'm all for a party that supports car enthusiasts, but they're not much good if the rest of the policies are nuts...

+1 Ethanol isn't a bad thing, more mis-understood. Some rubbers, plastics and metals used in fuel systems (mostly on older cars) can't handle ethanol, which leads to corrosion etc. and eventually the failures and horror stories that is giving ethanol it's bad name. Now that it's becoming more common place and manufacturers are adapting vehicles to support it, it can be used safely with minimal hassle. E85 is also starting to take off as a performance fuel... (Guilt Toy?) EDIT: Also, the majority of news stories talking about ethanol say to check if it's compatible with your vehicle before trying it. Try these: http://www.onlinemechanical.net/ethanol-E10.html http://www.jamaica-allspice.com/PDF/E10%20vehicle%20compatibility.pdf

Ah ok, i've heard alot about the trouble with Australian fuel, more to do with the amount of trouble people have with water in the lower grade fuels. And alot of the manufacturers recommend 95 or higher fuel in the owners' manual, but few people run it. The difference in quality of diesel has caused a world of trouble for manufacturers trying to introduce CRD into the Australian market...

Other than appealing to everyone in a car that isn't a stock Camry, what else are they offering? Better roads? Fuel prices? Etc? It's all good and well to support a party with some of your interests at heart, but what are they going to take away in the process?

+1 Pressure is proportional to flow and restriction, the pump might be able to push the fuel out with no load, but once the car tries to start the pump has to keep pressure up to the injectors to allow them to spray properly. Get, a, gauge. As I said before, had a VR commodore with the same symptoms, ran like crap hard to start etc. Fuel would come out if you had the line disconnected, but once the gauge was connected in line and the car running, the pressure dropped off till the car stalled after a few seconds. Ended up being the fuel sock on the pump. New pump and all good.

+1 Most people know that Australian 91RON unleaded is basically served as shots in Japanese bars... Our fuel sucks. Thus, imports not originally made for the Australian market should be run on 95 or better...

I think he may have meant E10?

You have flow but not pressure, ignition on the pump should supply 70+psi if the hose is completely blocked off. I'd still be looking at a fuel pump issue. Get a gauge, it's an EFI system not a 253 with a carby...

Doesn't quite work like that mate. As in theory adding more octane booster again would give you 111RON, then 118RON. Until you ended up with 300RON super fuel to run an engine with 37:1 compression......

Wouldn't happen to know the factory spring pressure of a R34? Got one here looking to go on my car, would like to know if I should modify it to run lower boost? (an aim of 7psi)

Lol Wouldn't happen to be an orange/red R33 that was in Zoom?

Fitted one of these (little black rectangle one?) to a mates 3 GTST, very happy with the results, set to 10psi and the gate pressure at about 7psi, car comes on boost alot harder, doesn't spike anymore (had a Tee-valve thing causing problems) and holds steady to redline... Good bit of gear...

Next option, not sure if it'll work, but get something you can feed through the guide with super glue or a good adhesive on it, then pull the valve back through? And for future reference, always have the the cylinder your working on on TDC with a bar holding the crank before you add compressed air... So if th valve falls in it can't go all the way into the cylinder...

Probably gonna get laughed at being that i'm not overly experienced with turbo stuff, but could plumbing the waste-gate feed line into the plenum cause over-boosting or compressor surge when you drop the throttle on boost? Ie would the waste-gate see vacuum while the turbo is still going with the throttle closed?

Provided the throttle body shaft is larger than the TPS slot, grind the shaft into the same shape as the slot???

So your saying: It started missing, you replaced the coil packs and it fixed it. It started missing again, you replaced one coil and it fixed it. It started missing again, you put injector cleaner in, it fixed it. It started missing again, you replaced the plugs, fuel filter and one coil and it fixed it again. And now it's missing again? For starters, stop walking under ladders with black cats on them carrying mirrors... 1. With the car idling and missing, does spraying A SMALL amount of aerostart in the intake or vac line temporarily stop it? 2. Have you tried taking the coil cover off, and disconnecting them one at a time to find the miss, then moving the suspect coil to see if the miss moves? 3. What fuel do you run the car on?