blk94r33

Tow truck at work has 980,000km+ on it now, still drives well but has had a fortune spent on it over the years. Also seen a >TR MAGNA< that comes into work for it's servicing/repairs etc with 600,000+ km on it now, old guy (70's) owns it and anything it needs, it gets. See quite a few falcondores in the 300-400k km bracket....

Hey mate. Posted a reply in my WTB thread, have been away from the computer since thursday so haven't got my PM's from you (but have received the email notifications). Will get back to you ASAP once the PM system is up and running again!

Hi all Just wanted to let the people who i'm currently trading with know that i'm not ignoring them, have been away from the computer since thursday and know I have new PM's as i've received the email notifications, but due to the SAU over-haul am currently unable to reply. I am still trading with you and will reply ASAP! Cheers, Josh

Lol

Not experienced with V35's. But when the drive shaft is cut down: -Where will the material be removed from? The shaft/flange assembly that goes into the diff I assume? -How does the shaft/flange couple to the center (to stop it moving around/"falling out")? Spring loaded C-Clip? Will this be kept when it's cut down? Sounds like a massive head-ache...

$300 won't get you far with a 2.0l NA in a 1.3 tonne vehicle. If you start looking around at modifications that WILL make a noticeable difference (computer/tune, full intake/exhaust and cams etc.) it'll cost more than the car. Your best bet is to build the rest of the car the way you like it ie: -Interior -Exterior -Suspension/handling -Wheels/tyres (some stuff is cheap, quick, easy and gives you a sense of achievement) etc if you plan on keeping it, then start looking for power after that. IE. a RB25DET conversion.

I lowered my car (S1 R33 GTS) 1" all round, and have 16" rims with 205/55 tyres. When I did it I took it for a wheel alignment at the same place my work uses, the guy is a gun at suspension/steering/tyres, and said when the alignment was done that the adjusters were nearly at maximum and any lower/bigger wheels would require a camber kit. I'd recommend putting a bush kit in it now as it guarantees: -You won't destroy tyres -The car won't feel like a shopping trolley -Any further suspension adjustments/modifications won't require the kit Or, you could lower it, get it aligned and see how it goes and put the kit in if required?

Er. Right. Don't quite know what you are trying to do there. You leave the engine and gearbox bolted in place, but go about the remainder of the process to remove the engine. Last step, remove the bell housing bolts and support the gearbox with a trolley jack, the gearbox can't simply "fall out" as it is held in place by the rear crossmember, input shaft and dowles on the engine. Now connect your engine crane and remove the engine by lifting it up off the mounts, and forward off the gearbox. Sometimes it can be easier to do it this way, sometimes the bell housing bolts are in-accessible without lowering the back of the gearbox. Re-Fitting is the reverse order, being careful to align the clutch and gearbox, getting the gearbox to meet flush with the engine before dropping it onto the mounts.

Have arranged: -RB25DET ECU -Oil feed line -Oil return line -Crossover pipe Waiting on replies/confirmation regarding: -Turbo exhaust manifold -Heat shield -Crossover pipe with BOV -Turbo -SMIC ^^^Check your PM's please!^^^ Still chasing a set of standard R33 GTST injectors and an intake pipe from the airbox to the turbo (would prefer to buy together)

PM's replied and thanks everyone for your help Will update list as purchases are confirmed

Thanks for your replies! R-SPEC, cheers but pretty sure i've got the item sourced. Also, chasing the intake hose from the turbo to airbox.

Check your PM's

Hi all Looking to slowly procure parts to do a DE+T on my car over the next few months. So will be trawling the For Sale section and sending PM's accordingly, but thought i'd put up a list if anyone is looking to sell the following factory/stock parts, preferably from a R33 Series 1 GTST: -R33 GTST Series 1 ECU (needs to be series 1 as I understand a series 2 is incompatible) -Turbo Injectors -Turbo with T3 flange, internal wastegate and actuator -Turbo dump pipe and flange -Oil feed & return lines -Turbo exhaust manifold -Side Mount intercooler and piping -Crossover pipe with BOV Will add posts/update list as items are found. Cheers, Josh

Cheers mate. Did some searching and from what I can tell despite some slight differences it'll fit as it's T3 flange. Keen on the turbo and accessories and SMIC. Sending you a PM now...

Interested in the standard 34 turbo and the 33 SMIC/piping. They're a t3 flange and would fit a standard 33 turbo manifold yes? Have to do some digging but definately interested...

Ok, so you've had 4 different alternators on the car, belt tensioned, running, and still only getting 12 volts??? Your other option is giving the alt a *LIGHT* tap on the housing near the regulator as this can sometimes get them temporarily running again. Is the battery light on the dash staying on with the car running? Something VERY suss going on as I doubt you could get 4 dud alternators.....

Generally, you can just put a trolley jack under the gearbox to hold it up, and lift the engine out. Saves a few minutes in removing the tailshaft, wiring, clutch line, draining/refilling the oil etc. Can be a bit more fiddly to get back in though as you have to get the gearbox back on the motor, then on to the engine mounts. I'd personally recommend leaving the gearbox in place. Also, don't non-turbo and turbo gearboxes have different ratios? Might drive a bit funny without the turbo engine?

Are you checking this from the back of the alternator or the battery? You could have three good alternators but a broken connection between the alt and the battery/earth....

Your options are: 1. Dud alternator, check the output from the alternator output terminal (the big one on the back of the alternator to earth) with the car running to see if you have more than 13.5v 2. Slipping belt (as per mlr's post) 3. If step one is deemed successful, a loss in connection between your alternator, battery and earth. Your battery is a storage device, designed to start the vehicle and run accessories with the car off, your alternator then replenishes this once the car is running and supports all electrical needs.

^+1 Or welding something: Was wiring in driving lights on a motor home, job done, wouldn't turn on. Someone else had disconnected one positive terminal from one of the two 1000cca batteries, and secured it out of the way with, wait for it.... a piece of mig wire, to the chassis... thinking that no one could be stupid enough to do it with a positive terminal, I reconnected the battery. 2000amps@12 volts shorted directly to earth by the mig wire, proceeded to weld itself in place, melt and in the process burn the living f*** out of my hand in a fraction of a second. Lesson learnt? As marc said, disconnect the negative first, on the off chance that you slip with your spanner or whatever, hit any point that is earthed, and proceed to F*** S*** up.

So you're saying your car won't run as the ignition relay is activated via earth switching form the ECU? If your unable to find an ignition switched earth, rig up a relay, that runs from a 12v switched supply from the ECU (ie. fuel pump), and hook your ignition to earth via this? If that makes sense?

In one of the 11ty gazillion threads about yellow headlights, someone recommended cleaning them then applying a coat of clear over the lens? Didn't hear any more after that though...

Timing belt stretch, tension, worn out drive to the cam sensor, sensor itself, worn keyway on the crank pulley etc will all cause a problem with cam timing. What rpm was the flat spot at? 4500rpm by any chance?

That's way too low. Car idling your battery should be getting at least 13 volts. Did you change your alternator with cheap second hand ones both times? Could be duds?

The amp needs 12 volt power to it, earth, and a 12 volt signal to turn it on, RCA's supply the signal for the amp to amplify and output.