Jump to content
SAU Community

blk94r33

Members
  • Posts

    984
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by blk94r33

  1. Why so keen on steel ones?
  2. Auto RX8=AUTO FAIL who wants a rotary that only revs to 7k? And loses 9/10ths of it's power? Buy a manual or live in regret
  3. ^+1 as 9/10 auto trans problems are fluid related in my experience. If not, try checking your coolant temp sensor readings for fluctuations as this will make the car drop in and out of over-drive intermittently.
  4. Fusion CACD-500, same as in my car, looks neat and simple, easy to use, green screen with blue or white dials, and has an aux in function. Set you back maybe $150 or less?
  5. Fuel pumps can start dying giving up all kinds of funny symptoms. Had a VS commo with a fuel sock so clogged with crap, that the car would idle and run OK, generally drive well, but too much throttle and it'd miss and fart and carry on, and occasionally stall, fuel pressure gauge showed the pressure being a maximum of half it's usual, and revving the engine didn't give a nice peaky response, the fuel pressure would slowly drop off and rise.
  6. As everyone else has said, quality costs money. If you want to spend $300 on a ported box/sub/amp combo that can replicate one frequency well, good for you. If you want to listen to a broad range of music at a good volume with decent clarity, you pay the price.
  7. If your unsure about any part of it, don't do it. Best bet is to find someone from here in your area with a bit of mechanical knowledge and tools, better off paying them a couple hundred for their time to do the work than have something go wrong. Or take your car to another shop and get it re-quoted (preferably somewhere that regularly works on imports) to see if they can save you a few dollars.
  8. I'd take your car elsewhere as it sounds like your getting ripped. Tie rod end boots, provided the tie rod end isn't worn you should just be able to fit new boots (alot less than $330), seems like they've quoted you for new tie rod ends? Did they say if they were actually worn? Front caster rod bushes split, $500? I did mine recently, the bush kit was $90 trade, maybe $120 retail? Takes half an hour to undo the bolt and two nuts, press out the old bushes (unless it has after-market ones already), fit the new ones and refit the rods to the car. Rear shocks leaking, get it done. $535 to remove the back seat, shocks, compress and remove the springs and change the shocks over, including parts and labor is reasonable, provided they're fitting a good shock. Brake pad and rotor change $500? Standard rotors and pads or? Then a wheel alignment as is always required with suspension/steering work.
  9. As above, don't cut the rear shelf. It is do-able, but an absolute pain in the ass. I built a complete new 9mm MDF rear shelf, fitted with 19mm (roughly 3/4") spacers. Fitted the shelf half way in, put the speakers in, put the shelf the rest of the way back, then did the screws up with a right angle ratchet handle screwdriver as you can't get to them without removing the rear window.. Looks neat, sounds good, big project though:
  10. LOL http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pu...bo-t300900.html
  11. I know hows motorez works and stuff. so i took my spark plugs out to stop the pistons slowoing down so much makering beter powah. then i mounted it sidewayz to stop the effect of gravity does anyone have a fuel pump i can borrow i think mines broke cos car go not now need to get it to workshop for dinosaur..... On topic: it's possible to shoot yourself in the face and live, but it's not the kind of thing you try.....
  12. De-turbo a 32gtst=facepalm De-turbo a 33gtst=facepalm De-turbo a 33 >>>>>>>>>>GTR<<<<<<<<<????????????????? ===W,T,F??????? FFS buy a GTS4!
  13. +1 You can test the relay by letting the pump prime (from off to on) then start the car and it should stay on. But teh relay mounted on the fuse box next to the battery IS the fuel pump one.
  14. +1 The 4.7l is a guide, it doesn't include the oil that the filter will take and retain. Always fill to the full line, run the vehicle till the pressure light goes out, turn it off wait a few minutes then re-check and re-fill. Oil coolers, remote mount filters etc etc will affect this also.
  15. Think 666DAN talked about this in his DE+T thread? The 34's have a 2 stage intake manifold (higher low rpm torque etc) that switches around the 3000rpm point? And caused similar problems with his car... It's there somewhere: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html
  16. $700 for what bushes exactly? Has your mechanic let you under the car on a hoist or shown you which bushes are specifically worn? If it feels like the car turns in, I'd suspect something in the front end (as you have the HICAS disabled, it's unlikely that the back end is "steering"). Get every bush/connection in the front end re-checked (if not already done) as movement in any component will alter the steering angle when it moves.
  17. ^+1 Otherwise maybe something to do with the cam timing as you said it occurs once you take the car above 4500 rpm?
  18. If you suspect the thermostat, best way is to run the car until it starts to get warm, and check the temp difference between the top and bottom hoses. Ie. If on is too hot to touch, and the other is stone-cold, good chance it's your thermostat. Does it only happen with the car on the spot idling? Not at highway speeds? Could also be a blocked radiator...
  19. Under 2L? 4G15, my first car was an 01 CE lancer. Cheap to run, maintain, and in my and 2 other mates experiences (who had them as dailys etc) they're pretty damn tough.
  20. Had a pair of these on the front of the RX when I had it, with Potenzas on the rear. Saw some pretty hard street driving but no track work. Was very happy in what I paid/what I got. Didn't have any dramas but read alot of reviews saying hard work an time (year or so) caused trouble. Eggs, poor response etc...
  21. It backfired, now it has no power? High chance of an intake leak somewhere near the 2 front cylinders causing your problems...
  22. Is this just to fix road noise sort of thing? Did 2 layers on the boot lid, amazing how much difference it makes. Bass is alot clearer and louder. Opening the boot sounds like taking the subs out. Did 3 coats of spray on deadener on the inner doors, improved the sound quality of the splits a fair bit, quietened down road noise and the noise from the electric windows too.
  23. That's what I was thinking with the hot/cold question, as coils that are starting to fail will play up alot more than once they get hot. It revs fine with no load? I'd be saying most likely an ignition problem, otherwise it could be a fuel problem (was it diesel before and did you flush the tank properly? Pressure problem? Blocked injectors?) Have you checked the plugs and tried gapping them down to the .7-.8 range to see if it improves at all?
  24. And they suck to diagnose without a decent graphing multimeter. Lol. Would you describe it as in in-consistent miss, or a proper limiter? Does it do it worse under load,and does engine temp affect anything? And is the engine stock-standard minus the conversion bit or has it been modified?
  25. Yup. Hazard switch +11ty. As I said, the hazard switch is designed to over-ride the indicators, is it's faulty it'll still over-ride the indicators, causing them not to work, and yours is faulty if the button won't stay on. 1. Get second hand hazard switch. (Check before purchase it works) 2. Fit second hand hazard switch. Fixed=go to step 3, not fixed go to step 4. 3. Drive car. 4. Check for problem in wiring between stalk, hazard switch, and flasher can. Still not fixed? Step 5. 5. Take car to auto elec or similar industry professional, as you've exhausted my vague-symptom-internet-diagnostics-capabilities, return to step 3.
×
×
  • Create New...