blk94r33

Bump exhaust $80 injectors $700!

Bump!

Bump. Injectors now $750!

Can't get photos to work but can MMS them if needed.

Hi all, Got the following two items for sale: 1. -Cat & back exhaust suit R33 GTST/GTS -2.5" press bent -Twin 3.5" tips (fills stock rear bar neatly -Hi-flow cat converter -Super quiet with minimal drone and nice sound -Flowed~200rwkw see here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/249186-nat-power-results-na-t-turbo-conversions-only/?view=findpost&p=6401351 -Selling as I have changed to a hi-flow turbo and 3" exhaust -$200 obo 2. -6xSard 540cc injectors suit RB25/SR20 (side feed) -Brand new in box never used or open -Complete with collars seals, connectors, everything needed for fitting -Selling as plans with the car have changed -$800 obo Items located in Warrnambool Vic, prefer arranged meeting point/pick-up due to cost of injectors and size/weight of exhaust. Contact phone: 04 3774 51 FOUR SEVEN or message me on here Will upload photos if possible shortly Cheers, Josh

Hi all, As per title, chasing both front lower control arms, and the stock turbo coolant line that runs around the back of the head (whole length with banjo bolts etc. please) suit R33 GTST 2 door. Cheers, Josh

Cheers for the replies guys, everything has been sorted at this stage.

Would rather get the lot at once cheers though

As above. Front caster arms and brackets to suit R33 2 door. (Brackets that run from the lower front section of the car to the chassis rail and incorporate the bottom radiator mounts, and the arms that attach to them) Cheers

He meant the hand brake assembly inside the rear rotor?

Still going fine.

Any brand/product is going to have bad batches/problems, admittedly the more reliable and less problems the better, but customer service and how warranty is handled is just as important. I've had my yellowjackets over 2 years ~40,000 kms now, 1.1 mm plug , 10:1 compression and 10psi at one point and had no problems.

Yeah lots of low end torque, comes in hard and early and sings to 7500 will have to take you for a drive next time I'm up there, it really is best of both worlds...

+1 for popped cooler pipe or vac leak

I don't understand how these laws are written. If a turbo skyline can only go from 2.5 to 4 liters, how can commodores of similar weight be sold stock with 5.7's?

Email the EPA under a fake alias and say what you're PLANNING to build, and ask them what you need to do to make it %100 legal and a rough cost of it, only way to get a definitive answer.

What specifically are you changing? Alot of it is interchangeable....

$4k+ for emissions testing, or the inconvenience of dropping the old engine back in if you get caught..... Vic govt really loves shooting itself in the foot doesn't it......

I think the consensus was it's legal so long as you don't rely on it to pass emissions testing. I'd imagine the WM mix would have to be non flammable if stored in the boot as well.....

I ran water only for a while until I got the car tuned, had no problems. As for shelf life, have premixed bottles in the shed sitting there for weeks no problems.

+1 There's more to preventing wheel spin than just tyres though, you can have 300 wide slicks it'll be useless if you have stock suspension and 5 degrees negative camber. ~180rwkw, Exedy HD clutch, stock NA box, tailshaft, diff etc. Wanted to run sub 9 seconds (1/8th) in a %100 street trim/street-to-track car. Had big traction issues first time out due to old cheap worn tyres. Changed to a pair of Goodyear Eagle F1's, done minimum of 30 3-4000rpm launches and using the clutch to prevent the car bogging down, had no driveline issues thus far, clutch and gearbox feel fine. If you have the stock GTT box I doubt you'll have problems unless you drive like an idiot. tl;dr -Slicks shouldn't be required -Suspension and alignment are -Driveline should be fine if maintained and clutch is up to it

400kw, 2.6lt, full boost by 3k, pick two......

Is there anything different about cylinders 3&4 to the others? Ie a vacuum line or two running off them that the others don't have? More information on the engine would help too.

So you have spark, fuel pressure, injection pulse, working injectors and good compression, but still have a miss? If all the above has been eliminated %100 there's little left to cause it. -How are you checking spark? (As in with a proper spark tester or other method) -What are the plugs like? Could they have been fouled badly enough during the first start up to cause the miss? Cracked or damaged during fitment? Is there signs of coolant or contamination (ie leaking headgasket) -Is the intake or exhaust restricted somehow? (Unlikely as it should have shown up on the compression test) Ie. are 2 of the ITB's if you're still using them bent or damaged? Is something jammed in the intake such as a rag or tape left over from the assembly? -Is fuel getting to no. 3&4 injectors from the rail? Also: -When does the miss occur? Idle, light throttle, light/medium load, free revving, constant? -Is it a dead miss as in the car barely runs, or are 2 cylinders not contributing equally?

Progress?