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blk94r33

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Everything posted by blk94r33

  1. blk94r33
    In the words of Brick: I DON'T KNOW WHAT WE'RE YELLING ABOUT!
  2. blk94r33
    It's still illegal to speed whilst overtaking though.......
  3. blk94r33
    ^+1 If the hazards work, you've eliminated alot already. And the second hand stalk could still be the problem. A dodgy hazard switch can cause no indicators as the hazard switch over-rides the indicators. Also, to find your flasher relay, turn the hazards on and follow the noise. I'd be looking for a wiring problem between the stalk and the hazard if everything you've posted is true.
  4. blk94r33
    Pretty straight forward job mate. Take the filter off the bottom, connector off the top, remove the clamps and lift the pump out of the base and remove it from the hose. Installation is just the reverse order. You don't HAVE to replace the hose that joins the pump to the bracket/cradle, but it is recommended to avoid any hassles down the track. Just make sure you get the proper fuel hose as it's dealing with 50+ psi and petrol, garden hose etc WON'T do.
  5. blk94r33
  6. blk94r33
    Nice. Black RX looks neat. Sure i've seen that kid somewhere before in another article basically with the same message? Good on em'. If 100 cars turned up for this one, then hopefully it keeps getting bigger.
  7. blk94r33
    But they have to be joined with blue silicone hose from Supercheap, and a sticker saying so on the skirt...
  8. blk94r33
    Agreed. Did you note which way you pulled the clutch out? Every clutch i've fitted the side with the spring assembly (the bit you said sticks out like 30mm) faces your clutch diaphragm spring/gearbox. If you think bolt heads that are 10mm shorter still won't fit then there's a good chance you have the friction plate around the wrong way.
  9. blk94r33
    And everyone knows there's 10rwkw in a TBI pod filter (the dyno graph on the back says so), and they're only like $15! So for $750 spent on TBI performance parts you can gain 500rwkw!
  10. blk94r33
    Do you know the condition of them before purchase? IE. had the previous owner had troubles? What brand? Could be something as simple as the upper mount bushes being worn/incorrectly installed.
  11. blk94r33
    It runs under the car, from the battery, through the floor, across to the drivers side "rail", along the car, then to the fuse box and starter. It is protected by conduit, but under the car it's easy to identify.
  12. blk94r33
    Lol. I assumed you were trying to jump start it from the battery in the boot, not the factory jump points in the engine bay, this would bypass the wiring from the battery to the starter, and eliminate it as a problem, along with your earths (by hooking the earth directly to the engine rather than the negative terminal of the battery). Since you have done this already, and jumping it directly to the factory jump points doesn't work, check the lead from the fuse box jump point to the starter is in good condition and that the connection on the starter is tight (disconnect the battery before you try this), if this is all OK and it still won't start, your remaining options are: 1. The jump/pack leads you are using aren't good enough 2. The starter motor is faulty 3. The starter solenoid/relay/circuit is faulty (which can be checked by bridging power directly from your leads or starter main wire, to the solenoid switching wire) 4. You're doing something wrong
  13. blk94r33
    3 New batteries doesn't fix it (provided they're fully charges), not a battery problem, you've replaced the starter (with a new one?) , probally not a starter problem. I'd start chasing a connection issue. 1. Is the relay clicking or is it the starter/solenoid itself clicking? 2. If you connect your jump-pack/vehicle's earth to a point on the engine, and the + to your + jump point in the fuse box, does this allow it to start easier?
  14. blk94r33
    ^ THIS+1 The other thing that brings you down is the stereotyping: "What do you drive?" "Skyline" "You drive a ricer!" They're Japanese built wtf? Or you're instantly labelled a hoon. "What do you drive?" "VN 5.0lt" "Then you have to be a bogan" "What do you drive?" "VS Ute" "You're a red neck!" "What do you drive?" "VL" "Oh My God Uleh, is it fully sick??" Where did this crap come from? A person's car is their choice alone. And who got the idea that Skylines are 4 cylinder? RAHgarblgarbl
  15. blk94r33
    Try to hunt down a product called "Prepsol", it's used in spray painting as a surface-prep, and is designed to remove any grease, oil, grime etc from steel before priming, works a treat on the sticky left over form double-sided tape etc. Spray it on, leave it for a bit, then run your thumb along it (not your nail), and the tape should form a ball and roll off. And provided the chrome doesn't have a coating (ie a layer of clear) any metal polish will do the trick to shine it up and take out the small scratches.
  16. blk94r33
    +1. Complete AFM failure/ failing is most likely to cause this.
  17. blk94r33
    6' 6", 33 GTS, standard seats with a smaller momo wheel (came with the car). Usually i have the seat all the way down and back and find it very comfortable to drive, even on long trips. But with someone sitting behind me and the seat as far back as it can then go, it does get a bit uncomfortable after 1+ hours. Hand does sometimes hit the knees when turning though. Anyone over 6' will struggle to find a car that they like AND can comfortably fit into. Of everything i've driven, Commodores are the only cars I can put the seat back far enough that i can't reach the pedals.
  18. blk94r33
    Got my 33 from them about 4 months ago. Done about 13,000 kms in it now and no problems. They were good with the buying/inspection process, ie. they let me spend as much time going over the car as i wanted, drove it 3 times (same day), sat down and negotiated $500 off the price, and when I serviced it the first time, all the driveline oils, fluids, plugs, fuel filter, coolant etc. had either been recently changed or were brand new as he said they serviced it for me before I took it, so was happy paying a bit more for it for what I got. Would recommend.
  19. blk94r33
    My Build The battery clamp, terminals, wiring and floor section have all been neatened up since I took the pics. Need to upload some more to the garage...
  20. blk94r33
    My guess would be fuel pump/fuel pressure. If the pump itself hasn't died, theres still alot of things that could have gone wrong with it to cause this. I.e. the gauge is faulty, pump runs dry and dies/won't supply fuel (especially with the noise you described), rubber hose that connects the pump to the bracket split/disconnected, fuel sock sucks up muck with the near empty tank and won't let any more fuel through (had a VR Commodore do this just last week actually and did the same thing, and no it's not a fair comparison), reg/injectors blocked etc. But most of this would happen over a period of time, not instantly. 1. Get a gauge and check what fuel pressure/flow you have. 2. If you disconnect the AFM, the computer will go into limp home mode, and it "should" start, or at least change the way it starts/runs and help with diagnosing it. This is the first time you've had trouble with the car?
  21. blk94r33
    PM sent
  22. blk94r33
    I'm assuming you mean where the oil pressure sender is on the car? Not a replacement for the Drift one? Your post read strange. Lol. Look under your intake manifold, in front and just above your starter motor, it'll be a canister about 2-3 inches long, 1.5 wide, and if you unplug it it has a two pin connector on top. Just remember that when you change it over you'll lose the function of your oil pressure light unless you put a tee piece in to feed both senders. Mines flush mounted and looks sweet. Might put up pics soon.
  23. blk94r33
    Hi all. Looking on behalf of a friend. He has a 95' R33 GTST series 1.5 (ie. no igniter pack but series 1 headlights) so I assume series 2 coil packs are used? Keen to buy if I can clear this up. Cheers
  24. blk94r33
    Doubt many will be interested, but ever tried NOT driving in the/a city? Country Vic roads are appalling. I literally cannot drive in any direction where there isn't a f***** road for more that 10+ km, then you might get a good section for a few hundred metres, then it's f***** again, and I live in a town of 15,000+ population. Should get a vid of the kind of stuff i'm talking about... The best bit is the "repairs". You know, the signs recommending you do 60km/h in a hundred zone, that stay there for 6+ months? Or the gravel/tar mix poured over the holes so you get it all down the side of your car and the hole re-appears anyways? Rahhhgargblearghhahah
  25. blk94r33
    ^+1 Except for the 2 12" part...
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