blk94r33

Alternator sounds like the culprit, or main wiring (ie earth, b+ to the alternator) Check your earths too as they can cause funny electrical problems like this too. Best bet is with a multimeter measure voltage from your negative battery terminal to the various body earths on the car with all the accessories turned on. Anything over 0.2 volts can cause grief especially under load.

Is is a *click* or a fair old clunk? When you turn the key, power is bridged to your starter relay, which in turn sends power to the starter solenoid, which throws out the starter gear to engage the flywheel and powers up the starter in at the same time, any faults in these components can cause this. So long as you're sure your battery is ok: (More directed at BWRGTR as you drive the car before the fault occurs) 1. Check your earths, if possible run a jumper lead from somewhere solid on your engine (ie. lift point) to the negative/earth side of your battery, see if the car still plays up after 10 or so starts, you can do the same with the battery positive directly to the solenoid wire to eliminate the battery feed wire, BUT DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW! 2. Could be a relay problem, with the car in neutral/park, key off, disconnect the solenoid wire and bridge battery power to the solenoid wire (the little terminal on the starter, if you're not certain get someone who does) and make sure the starter functions as above, this eliminates the relay/key etc. 3. If all the above works but the starter still just goes *cLuNk* when trying the above, most likely your starter is dead and you need a new one. If you are unsure about any of this just DON'T DO IT! As you'll be playing with 300+ccas which will melt and destroy s*** if you stuff up. Otherwise, hope it helps.

Guessing you can get the "gold passivated" cross drilled and slotted? Price on a full set of rotors as above, EBC "Red-Stuff" pads and braided lines if you do them? Cars a 1994 Series one R33 GTS non turbo 2wd coupe'.

People are actually posting here? Lol. Agreed Always used to go to the middle of nowhere to have fun away from anyone who could get hurt by my stupidity, learnt my lesson the hard way, and drive nana-spec now. Unfamaliar road @ 100km/h. I knew it was twisty, so it's my fault for not going steadier but up to this point nothing sharp, and then... It ain't worth it, trust me, take advice from those who know. Thankfully no-one was hurt, but due to $52,000 depreciation in 6 years and agreed value insurance, car's no more... Slow down guys and girls...

The stud where the top radiator bracket bolts to the radiator support. Opened the bonnet to do the usual checks thought "hmmm, that's not sitting right" un did the bolt, moved the bracket, snap. F***** around drilling, tapping and fitting a new stud. That's the most recent one. All because it wasn't sitting square! *face-palm*

Usually with brand new glass, they "score" the line they want to cut with a kind of pin, then it snaps off, but I doubt older glass would work so easily? Water cutter maybe?

Usually with brand new glass, they "score" the line they want to cut with a kind of pin, then it snaps off, but I doubt older glass would work so easily? Water cutter maybe?

^+1 They also use it to stick the hair to your head. Ever tried pulling it off? It's painful, frustrating and if you do want to remove it you end up cutting it off....

$10 on the lights having black as the positive, white as the earth, therefore wired in backwards by op....Plenty of people have done it before... ticktock....

Just put a few pics in the garage: (Hope the link works OK) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ges&id=1515

Sikaflex is basically the same stuff, so yeah it'd work, and g35me is right, good luck getting it off if you ever need to...

Mine sits 120mm at the lowest point (cat converter) and 130mm is the next at the front bar. I only have trouble getting into really sharp sorts of driveways where the bar scrapes, but even then taking them at an angle generally goes OK. So 90% of my driving is hassle free if that's any help?

Theres a product called Urethane that most panel shops use. You have to cut the attached components off once it dries. Or windscreen sealant works well also.

Black=fuel Blue=oil White=coolant, water, or you have a tank of diesel that isn't burning properly

Also, things such as timing belt tension/er come into play at anything more than around 40 thou as a general rule?

Not worth the effort mate, search for "DET to DE", "de-turboing a turbo"etc. DET=9:1 compression, DE=10:1 compression, makes alot of difference, performance, economy.

It came with a warranty yeah? Depends on how good the dealer is, as a rotor problem (if that's the case) could be dismissed as normal wear and tear. Only 1-2 seconds? Does it then go away completely or just become really faint?

Hey mate. Yes, it sounds like your sub may be dead, best way to check it is find someone else with a sub and hook it to your system, had a cheap audio-bahn sud die on me once, did the same thing ie. higher frequencies were ok, but good strong hits sounded nasty and made the amp cut out. Also, is your RCA converter adjustable? As if it's turned up too high the signal would be upsetting your amp. More info please: What amp do you have? What sub is it hooked to? Did you bridge the four channel amp or are you running it off one channel for the moment? Is the gear all new or 2nd hand? And did it work before you hooked it up as it is now?

You put a new loom in too? Then yes, you could have plugged the fan directly to accessories power...

My exhaust is in my signature, personally I love it, has that nice deep I6 rumble at idle, drones a little at low revs, but anything above 4k is perfect, good racey note and loud enough. Depends on what you want your car to sound like,each to their own. Listen to other peoples cars and ask what they have, and work from there, but 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" is enough for a NA 2.0l. Also, the horrible rattle around 2.5-4k is normal for NA skylines, something to do with the twin-cam head? Search, it's been covered before. You say it gets worse above 5k? Not so normal, does it do it all the time? Only at certain loads?

All sorted ended up getting two brand new genuine items! That and Phillips +80 globes=epic good lights!

You want broken cheap headlights? Damn, had two and threw them out! Get new ones mate you won't regret it, unfortunately your wallet will. Lol.

Yes, vacuum leak could cause it to miss intermittently at idle. How long has it been playing up? Number of things cause these problems, compression, blocked injector, fouled plugs etc. Get some aerostart and spray it around the area you can hear the hiss, but keep it away form your air intake, if the idle changes, suspect a vacuum leak.

Lol. My bad, you said that it stays on with the control unplugged. So it didn't work at all to start, got a new unit, now the fan's jammed on permanently whenever the keys on? Weird... Edit: Diagnostic here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...mp;hl=cold++air

I'm guessing you mean the fan right? Or does the climate control just not turn off all together?