blk94r33

B***h.... I reckon it's all the work it gets from "RBT/licence checks" (jokes, chill people)

+1 for a rotor issue, (most likely warped), as it's the only issue (other than an ABS fault) that will cause vibrations under braking. Does it get worse when the brakes are hot?

Thought this might be a good idea for a thread, excuse the long post... Came out of a drive through, went to wind up the window (electric), NuNzA, checked the lock-off was off, yep, crap, down to the shop (for obvious reasons didn't want to leave it open). Pulled the trim off, checked power supply, switch, auto-uppy-downy-controlly-thingy, wiring, all good and getting power up to the window motor, thought it had to be an earth (the window had given me no trouble before-hand), loosened and tightened all the mounting bolts (no seperate earth wire), still nothing, motor brushes? Gave the door a tap with the rubber hammer while using the switch, still nothing. Ok, has to be a dead motor, and I have to get it out to wind the window up. Pull the assembly out, scratch the f*** out of the tint in the process (getting pissed now), put the motor on the bench and hook it up to a battery, still nothing, take it apart, motors a bit burnt, but brushes etc. are ok, blast the lot with contact cleaner and air, re-assemble, re-test, still dead, do the same again to check i'd re-assembled it right, all good but still dead, "f*** this i'll buy a new one", wind the thing up with the motor apart and put it back in the door, more tint scratching "arghhhh", once it was all reassembled, hit the switch one last time, works fine/even better than before and has for the 24 hours since. Smart-ass car..... Anyone else?

Fuel does go stale over time. But months or years, not weeks, something like methanol you'd need to be more careful about but not boring unleaded. Lol. Get cars at work driven in by the "seniors", they keep the tanks filled to the neck and re-filled weekly after their one trip to the shops, fuel comes out yellow and has no smell to it, car runs, but poorly, but this is after 5+ years. And usually it's the water in the fuel causing problems in these cases... Also, my car was knocking under load (so I stopped loading it) on it's journey home post-purchase (import from a dealer), good tank of 98' and it went away...

1994 S1 R33 GTS, LSD, not sure if that's a rare thing though? Just thought it odd on a base model. Also "ECR33" on the firewall, I thought all non-turbo's were "ENR33". Anyone?

The lifter is either dead. or gummed up. I've fixed noisey lifters before with a bottle of engine flush and slightly thicker oil (ie. 10/30 to 15/40) but that's on 300,000km falcondores, I don't know if you'd want to do it on a turbo or low km engine?

Hey. Probally gonna get flamed being a noob, but I know that my car does this occasionally too (GTS not GTS-T though). Had me worried the first time it did it. Other than the obvious miss, does it do anything else odd? Noises etc? First time mine started, opened the bonnet with it running and noticed it had lifter noise, gently gave it a rev and it picked up again and has rarely done it since. Usually after a cold night or after it's been sitting around for a couple days, lifter bleeds down and upsets things.

On the side of the sub box or the side of the box the sub came in? Lol. Sounds like the sub box has terminals to run a DVC sub? 2 ohms is better than 4 ohms in terms of power you can get from the amp , the less resistance the amp "sees" the more power it can make. Ie. a mono block amp might make 200wrms at 4 ohms, but 400wrms at 2 ohms. Google it lol.

Thank-you Add premix to S1 13b to save apex seals, apex seals out. I have to admit this is pretty funny. However, run more than standard boost, pistons out?

They don't suck. Trust me. Had an 03' RX8 6 speed prior to the Skyline, and apart from the afformentioned reasons, they are a great engine. I was getting 9/10L/100km on highawy runs, but like any car if you abuse it you pay the price (anywhere up to 18L/100km around town for me ). The oil thing never bothered me, I checked it every time I filled up, and over the 5000km serice interval i'd use a litre or usually less depending on driving, you don't stop on the side of the road every 100 metres.... So 5 litres would get me 5000km including the service. No, they're not hell-torquey, but the power is something else to experience. 170 odd FWKW at 9,400rpm? FUN! And it's a different feel, very smooth and consistent compared to any other engine, and keeps coming from 4k all the way to redline. Plus the RX8's have a 2 stage manifold, so from 7k onwards it's a very different engine, power and sound wise. So for me they're a Don't pay it out till' you've driven one.

Hi all. Headlight I received didn't clean up quite as well as I was hoping (my fault). Still chasing a drivers headlight to fit a Series 1 R33 coupe', or the pair if you don't want to seperate them. Cheers.

Yeah mate, I just went through a heap of posts and ^listed^ what I found, like I said at the bottom I don't know if any of the information is accurate, and I didn't cross-reference either.

Yeah just realised that I can only edit the posts that are new. Bummer. If needed i'll just re-type it later in the thread.

Sweet! Now we're getting somewhere. But don't know how to edit my posts?

Headlight sourced pending arrival. Cheers livicuru!

Bit of help? Lol.

I'm pretty sure some/all of the spray-in-a-can style tyre repair kits wreck the tyre somehow? I now the one that came with the 8' did, said on the label that once you spray it in, you need a new tyre when you get to a shop? Space-savers are a stupid idea. WTF are you supposed to do with a grotty full-size wheel when you change it?! (Under extenuating circumstances such as a full boot and passengers)

PM sent regarding 5 stud hubs.

5 Stud front hubs-PM sent

Yeah mate, I got that idea too, but it just read funny out of context. And that's the only reason they give against aftermarket ECU's.

Found what looked to be a parking ticket (receipt) in the visor, and when I pulled the drivers door apart there was a brochure of some type in there.

The EPA totally knows what it's on about: http://epanote2.epa.vic.gov.au/EPA/Publica...6;FILE/1031.pdf Page 8, section 7: "An engine management system enables the engine to function with minimum emissions under a wide range of operating conditions. It also uses a variety of sensors to optimise combustion by altering how the engine operates, thus maximising fuel economy, engine power and engine life. A system that is not designed specifically for the engine it is fitted to is likely to increase emissions, reduce engine power, have poor fuel economy and reduce the life of the engine." That's right people! Your APFC or E-Manage is the reason you have no power!

Cheers

I want to do the DE+T conversion, personal choice that's all. The idea of a turbo top end, but still keeping the N/A responsiveness and power appeals to me, and this particular car has a sort of sentimental value to me. Why does the majority jump to the conclusion of "engine out" or "new car" whenever there's a whisper of a DE+T? Do they post on holden forums about how everyone should fit a GEN III or buy an SS when they want to supercharge a 6? No... R31 Nismoid, illegal as in because it's not an identical set-up to the DET? Thanks for the reply btw.

5 Stud hubs still for sale??