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blk94r33

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Everything posted by blk94r33

  1. Crazy indeed. 16-18 yo's, great drivers, here, drive what you want just have someone next to you. 18-22 yo's, oh no you've lost all ability, nothing nice for you, what's that? You're off your P's, ok just joking drive whatever you want again.
  2. Bringing this one back! Lol. Just wondering if anyone knows of a direct bolt in 120a+ alternator for a series 1 r33 rb25de? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ment+alternator If i'm reading correctly, an aussie R31 with an RB30's Bosch 110a (close enough) is a direct fit, can someone confim that please? I have searched, and the above link is the closest I got. Any help appreciated.
  3. WGMG, people who can't use roundabouts. I.e the ones who drive in at 2km/h, no indicator, giving you the idea it's safe to go, and just as you get rolling and it's too late to turn back, and they're nearly out, they simultaneously go to right hand lock, smash on the indicator and accelerate at 500m/s straight at you, making you stamp the right foot on it to avoid an at-fault crash, and the general public swing their heads around to see what looks like the ever-scrutinized stereotypical import driving P-plater puling out in front of someone and tearing off like an idiot, further justifying the idea that every P-plater not driving their parents rattly magna should be locked away from society.
  4. 1/2" rattle gun-Got one, had it for a couple years now, definately a cool tool. Also bought the 3/8th drive 7.2v version recently, has as much go as my air ratchet without the hassles and bulk, handy for stubborn 10mm splash tray bolts etc. Also recommend the Snap-On drill bit set, pretty much anything melts in front of them, been in use for a few months and haven't needed sharpening.
  5. No worries, not trying to be a smart ass or assume anything, but I meant one of the thinner wires coming out of the reg, not your main battery wire as this will have battery voltage all the time. The wire that switches the alternator light on the dash is the one I'm thinking of.
  6. True, the cat works by re-burning exhaust gases (least technical way of explaining it), so the oulet on the cat will be 40-60ish (I think?) degrees hotter than the inlet, provided it's working correctly.
  7. Cheers mate. Spent another 4 hours at he shop tonight. Tidied up all the wiring etc and cleaned everything, now need to buy a universal fuse box that I can mount somewhere as the factory one is too bulky, so it's currently cable tied in. So close yet so far...
  8. Not sure yet. Thinking of retro-fitting a Bosch 150a since they're reliable and common for parts etc. if they do die. Alot of effing around with brackets etc. but I think it'd be worth the effort. Other than that there's a few on Ebay, and I think nengun lists them but the price is ridiculous.
  9. More than aware of that. I'm on P's for another 8 months, I'm not sure what I want to do in regards to an upgrade. Motor swap, DE+T or just buy another car. Re-evaluate when the times comes as i'd prefer a R34 turbo. I like tinkering with my cars, so the 8' was boring in that sense, the 33 is the kind of car I can modify however I want without feeling guilty or selling a kidney. The DE+T idea is more a of a project and a bit of fun instead of just taking the easy way out. Lol.
  10. Alternator? I think. There should be something that you can tap into that only powers up once the car is running, to prevent the alternator from trying to charge while the starter motors doing it's thing. Don't mean to be vague but not %100. Or buy a cheap shift light and set it to 800 rpm with a relay running off t?
  11. Yeah, I get that alot. Lol. Had comprehensive on it, and finance. Repairable write off. I only paid $28k for the car with 53,000km on it, but when I pranged it I only got $22k back after depreciation, tow fees etc. Didn't want to get back into the debt cycle again so decided to go with something a bit more reasonable and cheaper to maintain. The things we do when young and dumb...
  12. Not particularily difficult. Just time consuming to make sure it all works the way I want and prevent rattles. Google "inverted mount subs", the back of the subs is facing out purely for aesthetics, as the magnets on eclipse subs are massive (the subs are 10"s) so I preffered to invert mount them as they look better. There's a box built into the front of them above the fuel pump/below the parcel shelf that attaches to the first front panel, and the subs then seal into that. I'll upload some more pics tonight and you'll see what I mean.
  13. So far $2.5k, all DIY. I only get to work on it after hours so like 2-3 hours a night on the nights I do get off, been slowly chipping away at it for about 2 months and almost finished.
  14. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ld-t328138.html The center bottom panel lifts out and still has the factory spare wheel and jack.
  15. Hey mate. Sounds like your car does/did have a factory alarm/central locking. But chances are that if you didn't get remotes with the car, you might run into trouble getting replacement ones, as most factory systems require one working remote to code a new one if that makes sense? Don't worry too much about the cost of the (i'm assuming) door actuators, as most remote alarm/immobiliser/central locking kits will come with actuators, and you car buy cheap basic central locking kits with 4 actuators for as little as $20-$30 with universal fit 4 wire actuators. Hope that helps.
  16. Hey there. Second post on the site and thought I'd share some photos of my in-progress stereo build. Currently using: Fusion CACD-500 Head unit Pioneer TS-A1702c's front speakers Pioneer TS-A1683s' center speakers (in the rear seat side plastics) Pioneer TS-A6983s' 6X9" rear shelf speakers Fusion EN-AM3002 amplifier (to run the 6X9"s) 2 Pioneer GM-D7400m amplifiers 2 Eclipse SW6210 4ohm DVC subs Aerpro 1 farad capacitor and wiring kits Roughly 1000w rms, thus i'm in the process of getting a 120a+ alternator and putting in a second battery I still need to finish the floor section, build a battery enclosure with a decent clamp, add a boot light that works when it's (rarely) full, maybe change the front doors to fiberglass moulds and general tidy up work. But so far it sounds fantastic and i'm pretty happy with it. Will post more pics when I get my lazy act together to finish everything.
  17. Hi all. After spending hours on here I finally decided to sign up. Recently purchased a series one R33 GTS manual. Last car was a 03' Mazda RX8 6 speed which was involved in an unfortunate incident. Look forward to hearing from you all in the future as I am looking to shortly upgrade my suspension, convert to 5 stud and a brake upgrade, and eventually a RB25DE+T conversion.
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