blk94r33

There could be more power made, but at the compromise of safety. The main point of the kit was to improve reliability of the whole setup.

Tune completed! Red line is the stock ECU with an SAFC Green line is the Nistune Z32 ECU re-tuned for ~9.5 psi Orange line is the current tune with the WMI on and some minor adjustments. Although there isn't a massive gain in power, the tune doesn't rely solely on the WMI to make power, if the WMI does fail, it will leave the tune close to the edge, but not mean an instantly lunched engine. Had a bit of trouble initially as the nozzle is simply too large for the power the cars making, after dropping the pump pressure down a bit it netted worth-while results. The good bits: -Big drop in intake temps, run after run, everything down-stream of the nozzle right up to the head wasn't just ambient temperature but physically COLD to touch. -Big drop in coolant temps (and assume exhaust temps) car ran in the 85-90 degree mark and would warm slightly after each run, with the WMI turned on, the temp dropped back down to the 80 degree mark and held there. -Boost holds better in the top end -Mid range power and torque are both improved, peak power and torque are a touch higher. How does the kit work? Well, after a bit of research I wanted to try WMI, but didn't like the 4 figure price tag of the Aquamist system, yet could see flaws in the on/off systems. I ended up buying a cooling mist "stage one" on/off system, and experimented by modifying it my own way. In brief, the hobbs switch activates a mechanical relay, that then sends power to a solid state relay, this relay is run off an injector earth, so that once pre-set boost pressure is reached the pump runs at the same duty cycle as the injectors. Having two relays does mean an extra point of failure, but also means if the hobbs switch, mechanical relay or solid state relay fail in the closed postion, I don't end up with 4 litres of water in the engine. It's far from perfect, and does run a tad too much in some spots and not enough in others, but for $330, ($300 kit, $15 relay and $15 for conduit and other stuff) the gains are definitely worth while, and it's a step up from an on-off system. The down-side being there isn't a fail-safe if the kit fails, so the tune was kept conservative to keep the engine in-tact if something does go wrong. A smaller nozzle with higher pump pressure would have performed better but this still works well. Thanks to scotty nm35 for discussion about the SSR operation. And a big thanks and +1 to Cat and Trent at Chequered Tuning, exceptional to deal with from the beginning and very pleased with the entire tune!

From last tune added: Z32 Nistune ECU Customized Cooling Mist WMI kit (see "let's talk water methanol injection" thread) NGK BCPR7ES' gapped to .8 Boost wound up to ~9.5psi Red is the stock ecu/SAFC combo, different dynos, conditions, times and probally the ECU being weird resulted in 166rwkw peak on this dyno. Green is with the above mods, WMI de-activated. Orange is the current tune with WMI and a few minor tweaks, if the WMI dies the engine should still survive rather than relying %100 on the WMI kit. Massive +1 for Cat and Trent at Chequered Tuning, exceptional people to deal with from the get-go and i'm exceptionally happy with the tune and their awesome customer service. What the graphs don't show is the rest of the tune: on-off throttle, part throttle feel, anti-stall, fuel economy etc. Car is completely different to drive in every way.

find out if it works first then details will be posted....

Going up and down .5" doesn't really need different flanges. I.e. you can bolt 3" to 3.5" so long as the bolt holes are in the same spot. I'd imagine it would flow a bit better with matching flanges though...

My d.i.y. fuel proportional kit is up and running for the bargain basement price of $330. Tune is next Friday will update here with how things go.

3" JJR mild steel dump/front pipe+metal induction pipe+K&N panel filter=lots of induction noise. nice whistle from 2500 onwards with light throttle then fair sings at WOT.

260 in a 1.3 ton car or 300 in a near 2 ton car. but then you have to take in manual vs. auto, 1/8th or 1/4, drivers of each car yada yada and the result is usually too many factors to decide without actually taking them to the strip.

Size? Very interested.

Yeah mine will be up for sale soon, need a few weeks to finish the WMI and Nistune install then the SAFC will be coming out.

SAFC did wonders for me. Went from ~140rwkw @ 7psi to ~200rwkw on 8.5psi. For basic "stage-one" mods such as yours they're good to gain that little bit extra. I'm now going Nistune as the car is past what an SAFC can handle.

Now has a series 2 wing, and 200rwkw goodness....

Can and has been done, WYTSKY started off with a stockish R33 GTS-4, now equipped with ~300awkw.... How far you want to go with power etc defines what it'll cost to convert....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402787-rb25de-extractors-and-exhaust/page__fromsearch__1

If you're desperate PM me. But i'm 300kms away so would take some sorting...

Series 1 Z32 still available?

Ah ok. It read as if you were able to now Nistune R33 ECU's. $600 plus freight for plug-and-play Z32 ECU for a R33 GTST, that any Nistune tuner can use, correct?

Hi Toshi, If I were to send you an R33 series 1 RB25DE stock ECU, can you modify it with Nistune, to allow a Nistune tuner in victoria to tune my RB25DE+T? The Nistune website doesn't list anything for R33 RB25 and says to either use an R32 RB20DET ECU or a Z32 ECU with modifications? Cheers, Josh

Where is everyone sourcing high wattage globes to slow the flash rate down when doing this?

As above %100 every time, and always the best I could find for price.

Subs and amps sold!

Bump

Water methanol injection and lots of it....

Bump

Bump Subs and amps $250