prawln

ok so have some good news.. got the car fixed and sorted. The auto ecu was causing the car to not get above 5-5.5k rpm so replaced with a manual ecu and that fixed that problem. i was still having the cutting out on boost issues though so today i took the pod filter off and put my hand over the AFM quickly to see if i could hear any leaks in the intercooler piping.. and to my surprise bingo herd a hissing sound. I located where the noise was coming from and found that the T bolt clamp was on tere tight but when we put the joiner on the intercooler pipe was in far enough and the T bolt clamp wasnt actully over the piping so was causing it to leak! When looking at it it looked like it was on perfect but apprently not Took for a run on 5psi actuator and ran mint!! so put the 10psi actuator and also runs mint!!! so problem solved! Just need to bring the timing back to 15 degrees from 20 degrees as its idleing rough! Big thanks for everyones help and sorry for this being such a silly minor stupid thing!

ok so today i checked for error codes on the manual rb25det ecu, i got code 12, which is AFM so i replaced it with another one and now it will idle fine and run, but again it is cutting out on boost!! im running out of ideas here! Can anyone else think of anything to try?

hey guys so today was a busy day. I changed the coils over with a mates ones that were working sweet and the problem was still there. I changed the AFM to another pink sticker one, problem still there. I decided to take a look at the ECU and to my suprise it has an odd one for it, and remembered that when i brought the engine it was out of an auto car.. and the ECU they gave us came with that engine.. so im guessing the ECU is an auto one. The numbers are: MEC-R730 B1 6521, Ive done a search but cant find anything about this ecu. I got a proper r33 rb25det ecu and checked the numbers on it and they are for this car but now it wont idle! its turns over and then dies straight away, if i give it some gas it i can hold the revs myself then if i slowly take my foot of the accel it will sit there idling but will be searching then pretty much die. I unplugged the AFM and it was the same.. so while it was seaching for idle i got the mrs to plug the AFM back in and it died straight away. Would this mean its the AFM?

just had a check and most people are running 15 degree advanced for these. hmm im going to borrow a mates 25det coils tomorrow and see if it fixes it then will try another AFM and see what happens

Anybody no what thats ment to be? ill do a search, if anyone nos then let me no

i taped up the coils and flushed out the afm with degreser ( i saw another thread that said to try that.) the car now when it hits about 3-4 psi it dies!! it has to be the AFM! as i dont think putting insalution tape around coils would do that! Another thing i checked was the flints on the coils... theres like... no flint there! Would this be the issue? The timing ive done i put it at 15 degrees advanced which should be ok.

Ive just cleaned the afm just waiting to dry it out, did a error code check, it gave off the code 55 which is no malfunction. im stumped! I tried reving it out of gear just sitting there and it only gets to about 5.5k rpm and wont go higer. is that coils im guessing?

Hey guys so have put the 5psi actuator back on and car didnt die at all woop woop! BUT when giving it balls it doesnt seem to get over 5k - 5.5k rpm, its completly screaming by then. Also in the transition from 0 - 5psi it feels like the cars holding back then gets a burst of power then holds back then gets a burst of power etc. I put the new spark plugs in yesterday and took for a little drive then pulled them back out again today and they were sootty black and had white on the tip. What does this mean? rich? Help!!!! im so confused!

ok so ive removed the Cat converter to try free it up but still no change, ive changed the spark plug gaps to 0.8mm. Still seems to be cutting out. I T join connected the boost gauge to the line that i have that goes from the intercooler piping (have a nipple tapped into the piping straight after the turbo elbow) and goes to the actuator. Interesting enough this time when the car dies under boost, the boost acully drops where as before when it was connected to the manifold it was saying the psi wasnt dropping. I can hold it at 5psi perfect and it doesnt die but if go above it feels like the car starts to bog down then about 7psi it dies. Would this be R&R? im about to go change back to the 5psi actuator and see if it dies at all!

Cheers guys, you guys are really helpful and awsome, im not so good with these engines as ive only work properly on my rotary and thats a whole another ball game haha. Anyways going to remove the Cat and change the gap and will report back!

sweet will keep you guys posted! i might remove the cat tomorrow and just weld a pipe in place and see what happens, time for bed now lol 1 am and the missus is giving me evil looks haha, will let you know what happens tomorrow! Cheers again guys!

cheers mate! one issue i have with exhaust wise is its the standard 25DE non turbo exhaust with the old cat converter in it. I just got a 25det turbo front pipe and connected it straight up to the old small exhaust, would this cause issues aswell? not being flowing enough

cheers guys! ill give it ago!! im thinking it could be coils as if going up hill and and i slowly make it build boost (foot not fully on accel) when it got to about 5psi and 4 - 5k rpm it started cutting out, but not just jerking but fully dieing (not stalling but just doesnt accel but the engines still running) but yet if i plant my foot then it gets to about 8psi and 4 - 5k rpm and does the same with dieing So if i change the gapping to .8mm gapping and it fixs the issue its the coils that need replacing?

thats very true! yeah im using one of the autometer stepper motors types. wondering if the gauge is under reading! I might try put the 5psi actuator back on and get a boost tap/controller and try turn the boost up alittle. I always thought that the ecu would be able to handle 10 psi as the rb20dets have the 10 psi actuator. Even if its a 10 psi actuator can it still jump over 10psi? i read somewhere that nissan say it may do more then 10psi is running on spring pressure?

Turbo is stock standard series 2 turbo. It does seem odd that its cutting out at like 5 psi but then it didnt seem to have issues on the 5psi actuator but i will have to replace it back to the 5psi and test it out again! I think it was roughly between 4 - 5k revs when it was cutting but seemed to be fine in first gear. Whats the best way to check if the coil packs are the issue?