prawln
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Everything posted by prawln
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ok so have some good news.. got the car fixed and sorted. The auto ecu was causing the car to not get above 5-5.5k rpm so replaced with a manual ecu and that fixed that problem. i was still having the cutting out on boost issues though so today i took the pod filter off and put my hand over the AFM quickly to see if i could hear any leaks in the intercooler piping.. and to my surprise bingo herd a hissing sound. I located where the noise was coming from and found that the T bolt clamp was on tere tight but when we put the joiner on the intercooler pipe was in far enough and the T bolt clamp wasnt actully over the piping so was causing it to leak! When looking at it it looked like it was on perfect but apprently not Took for a run on 5psi actuator and ran mint!! so put the 10psi actuator and also runs mint!!! so problem solved! Just need to bring the timing back to 15 degrees from 20 degrees as its idleing rough! Big thanks for everyones help and sorry for this being such a silly minor stupid thing!
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ok so today i checked for error codes on the manual rb25det ecu, i got code 12, which is AFM so i replaced it with another one and now it will idle fine and run, but again it is cutting out on boost!! im running out of ideas here! Can anyone else think of anything to try?
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hey guys so today was a busy day. I changed the coils over with a mates ones that were working sweet and the problem was still there. I changed the AFM to another pink sticker one, problem still there. I decided to take a look at the ECU and to my suprise it has an odd one for it, and remembered that when i brought the engine it was out of an auto car.. and the ECU they gave us came with that engine.. so im guessing the ECU is an auto one. The numbers are: MEC-R730 B1 6521, Ive done a search but cant find anything about this ecu. I got a proper r33 rb25det ecu and checked the numbers on it and they are for this car but now it wont idle! its turns over and then dies straight away, if i give it some gas it i can hold the revs myself then if i slowly take my foot of the accel it will sit there idling but will be searching then pretty much die. I unplugged the AFM and it was the same.. so while it was seaching for idle i got the mrs to plug the AFM back in and it died straight away. Would this mean its the AFM?
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just had a check and most people are running 15 degree advanced for these. hmm im going to borrow a mates 25det coils tomorrow and see if it fixes it then will try another AFM and see what happens
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Anybody no what thats ment to be? ill do a search, if anyone nos then let me no
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i taped up the coils and flushed out the afm with degreser ( i saw another thread that said to try that.) the car now when it hits about 3-4 psi it dies!! it has to be the AFM! as i dont think putting insalution tape around coils would do that! Another thing i checked was the flints on the coils... theres like... no flint there! Would this be the issue? The timing ive done i put it at 15 degrees advanced which should be ok.
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Ive just cleaned the afm just waiting to dry it out, did a error code check, it gave off the code 55 which is no malfunction. im stumped! I tried reving it out of gear just sitting there and it only gets to about 5.5k rpm and wont go higer. is that coils im guessing?
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Hey guys so have put the 5psi actuator back on and car didnt die at all woop woop! BUT when giving it balls it doesnt seem to get over 5k - 5.5k rpm, its completly screaming by then. Also in the transition from 0 - 5psi it feels like the cars holding back then gets a burst of power then holds back then gets a burst of power etc. I put the new spark plugs in yesterday and took for a little drive then pulled them back out again today and they were sootty black and had white on the tip. What does this mean? rich? Help!!!! im so confused!
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ok so ive removed the Cat converter to try free it up but still no change, ive changed the spark plug gaps to 0.8mm. Still seems to be cutting out. I T join connected the boost gauge to the line that i have that goes from the intercooler piping (have a nipple tapped into the piping straight after the turbo elbow) and goes to the actuator. Interesting enough this time when the car dies under boost, the boost acully drops where as before when it was connected to the manifold it was saying the psi wasnt dropping. I can hold it at 5psi perfect and it doesnt die but if go above it feels like the car starts to bog down then about 7psi it dies. Would this be R&R? im about to go change back to the 5psi actuator and see if it dies at all!
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Cheers guys, you guys are really helpful and awsome, im not so good with these engines as ive only work properly on my rotary and thats a whole another ball game haha. Anyways going to remove the Cat and change the gap and will report back!
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sweet will keep you guys posted! i might remove the cat tomorrow and just weld a pipe in place and see what happens, time for bed now lol 1 am and the missus is giving me evil looks haha, will let you know what happens tomorrow! Cheers again guys!
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cheers mate! one issue i have with exhaust wise is its the standard 25DE non turbo exhaust with the old cat converter in it. I just got a 25det turbo front pipe and connected it straight up to the old small exhaust, would this cause issues aswell? not being flowing enough
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cheers guys! ill give it ago!! im thinking it could be coils as if going up hill and and i slowly make it build boost (foot not fully on accel) when it got to about 5psi and 4 - 5k rpm it started cutting out, but not just jerking but fully dieing (not stalling but just doesnt accel but the engines still running) but yet if i plant my foot then it gets to about 8psi and 4 - 5k rpm and does the same with dieing So if i change the gapping to .8mm gapping and it fixs the issue its the coils that need replacing?
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thats very true! yeah im using one of the autometer stepper motors types. wondering if the gauge is under reading! I might try put the 5psi actuator back on and get a boost tap/controller and try turn the boost up alittle. I always thought that the ecu would be able to handle 10 psi as the rb20dets have the 10 psi actuator. Even if its a 10 psi actuator can it still jump over 10psi? i read somewhere that nissan say it may do more then 10psi is running on spring pressure?
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Turbo is stock standard series 2 turbo. It does seem odd that its cutting out at like 5 psi but then it didnt seem to have issues on the 5psi actuator but i will have to replace it back to the 5psi and test it out again! I think it was roughly between 4 - 5k revs when it was cutting but seemed to be fine in first gear. Whats the best way to check if the coil packs are the issue?
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Hey guys, I recently put a RB25det engine into my partners R33 Rb25de car, Got it going etc etc. Im running the boost off the standard 5psi actuator. Its running ok but to be honest it doesnt feel like its really pulling. So ive just got a 10psi actuator and now when its boosting it cuts out at around 8psi when giving the car some stick. In first gear it seems to be fine without cutting. When i take it up hill it in 3rd gear it starts cutting at like 5 psi. I have taken videos that i have attached below. Alittle about the car, Everything on it is standard but a pod filter and front mount intercooler. It has a RB25det fuel pump in it also. I have put a fuel pressure gauge in also and the fuel pressure at idle is at around 40psi (alittle below) and when giving the car stick it gets up to around 60psi. Which to me seems fine with no issues there (im not very good with skylines, have only really work on my rx7) Anyways i hope ive given good info about the issues. Going up hill in 3rd gear, you can hear it cut/die then come back then cut/die again then come back. Going down the street with foot flat. Car dies then when i pull foot off accel alittle it comes back. Also i have replaced all spark plugs but still seems to be doing it! Ive been doing some searching and have seen some people talk about AFM cut? what is that and how can it be fixed? Its running a stock ecu also and the AFM is the one that was used for the RB25DE engine but is the pink kind so thought it would be ok.. Do i need to buy a different AFM? Any help would be good!!
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Also i have replaced all spark plugs but still seems to be doing it! Ive been doing some searching and have seen some people talk about AFM cut? what is that and how can it be fixed? Its running a stock ecu also and the AFM is the one that was used for the RB25DE engine but is the pink kind so thought it would be ok.. Do i need to buy a different AFM?
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Hey guys, I recently put a RB25det engine into my partners R33 Rb25de car, Got it going etc etc. Im running the boost off the standard 5psi actuator. Its running ok but to be honest it doesnt feel like its really pulling. So ive just got a 10psi actuator and now when its boosting it cuts out at around 8psi when giving the car some stick. In first gear it seems to be fine without cutting. When i take it up hill it in 3rd gear it starts cutting at like 5 psi. I have taken videos that i have attached below. Alittle about the car, Everything on it is standard but a pod filter. It has a RB25det fuel pump in it also. I have put a fuel pressure gauge in also and the fuel pressure at idle is at around 40psi (alittle below) and when giving the car stick it gets up to around 60psi. Which to me seems fine with no issues there (im not very good with skylines, have only really work on my rx7) Anyways i hope ive given good info about the issues. Going up hill in 3rd gear, you can hear it cut/die then come back then cut/die again then come back. Going down the street with foot flat. Car dies then when i pull foot off accel alittle it comes back. Any help would be good!! Cheers guys!!
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hey, just wondering if anyone can tell me what the piece of the exhaust is called between the downpipe and catalytic converter on an rb25det? Thanks Prawlns fiancee
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hey all ive been looking for quite some time now about putting a turbo onto the rb2de engine. (its my partners car and she wont stop nagging me to do it gah!) so i just want to confirm a few things and see if this is ok. shes not wanting to get massive gains or anything basicly... she just wants her car to go... pshh.. the end... i no i no but im not paying for the parts etc guys!! so shes got parts wise a RB25DE Series 2, series 2 turbo, manifold, intercooler +piping, down pipe. shes only going to be running the BARE MINIMUM boost, my questions are. the engines got the stock rb25 injectors and fuel pump and ecu in it... with only running like 5 - 7psi (i think thats around the stock actuator?) can we get away with still using the stock fuel pump, injectors and ecu or can we just get a DET fuel pump and leave the injectors and ecu as standard. thanks for any help guys... ANY would be good, the sooner and cheaper this can be done the sooner she gets off my back so i can work on my car, which im sure many of you have had this issue with partners haha