Jayden.K

i thought there may be a file (not forum) of a step by step thats all, im well aware of the rb30 section

Can someone post a link to that PDF file. Also looking for information on changing to a neo head

chasing the location or link to the files that contain rb30/25 information and walkthroughs, prefferably r34 neo head builds. thanks!!

my r34 gtt has a 3076r/3037 with a .63 rear. and its responsive and feels fine over the rev range. any lagger on the street TO ME dosnt feel good to drive.

i use a gt3076 with .63 rear. its very responsive. have no issues with it, standard manifold with mild porting, internal gate. using a apexi avcr boost controller as the small rear housing causes boost spikes. boost controller fixes this. i went from a gtrs to a 3076 and for the power difference (which dosnt feel like much, no dyno run as of yet) i wish i went for the .82 housing and sacrifice response over power. point is get a 3076 with a small housing over the gtrs. thats my 2 cents. most people frown on a small housing gt3076r on a rb. best results will require WMI or E85 and external gate.

yep cool, i just thought powerfc were really basic computers and once it set thats it, guess i learn to never assume anything. sorry about the incorrect information

sorry, i thought that was how it worked with power fc.

to easy mate, btw vac leaks and boost leaks are 2 different things but if you have a leak at vac you will with pressure. you will need a pressure tester to put into your intake, force air in and when you close the valve you will hear air coming out in all sorts of places, i had no leaks at 5 psi but then leaks at 20psi. things like hose clamps/ split hoses, gaskets etc. then after there fix, it will pay to check it every 6 months or whatever. ask your tuner if they can perform this, if they dont no what your on about get another tuner. maps are locked, unless at hot idle or cruising then it switches to closed loop and reads the o2 to calculate a/f ratio. its really shit because if the car knocks, it doesn't retard timing. it just follows the map!!! something that comes in handy on steep inclines, burnouts and hot days which shoot knock readings up from engine load. not sure if other ecus do it like vipec/haltec, motec, wolf v2, nistune piggy back blah blah

also sense you have a hole in your vac line. it will pay to get your boost leaks check. it will run so much better if you fix any. do this before you tune again. otherwise it will run lean if tuned with leaks, then you decide to fix them

that is some crazy dodgy work lol. now that the boost is lower it wont feel very quick puling from 5 to 8 grand. plus it maybe running rich now which will bog it down, so when it use to see over 12psi it will add fuel to compensate (aka thats it tuned) now the airflow isnt there, its just waking fuel in for 17psi of boost when there is only 12. fact is if you have a pfc, you must get it tuned when you change things like this

clearly there is already a bleed valve or ebc to get it to 17psi and tune to suit. im guessing you have just bought a car without knowing what aftermarket parts controls its boost??? maybe the power fc ebc kit. remove the vac line from the controller and plumb them straight to the wastegate, if you lower your boost a lot you will run quite rich when the tune expects 17psi and gets 10psi

do remember these motors have a turbo for a reason, a 2.5lt gutless reason. if its n/a for power its a v8. yet even a stock turbo is slow. hence why we modify

auxiliary air control solenoid must be unplugged as it takes over because it will just compensate if you turn the screw. yet the manual said unplug the tps sensor after going into (IAVC-ACC VALVE ADJ)-(WORK SUPPORT MODE) to cancel idle control feedback. but this is with a standard computer which may not work

Tuning with a wide band, car runs with a narrow band**

Ok sounds like I need to hit my tuner up again for that idle learn. As he believed it was something else. I tried mucking around with the idle screw with the solenoid unplugged but made no difference. Cleaned my earths up and made no difference. Removed my idle screw and was fairly clean. I tune with a wide and bit run a narrow band. I have been thinking my fc is cactus. But I'll ask my tuner he is not one to skip corners

How did you fix it, I installed a bigger turbo and type b tomei cams and I have a constant hunt at 900-850rpm under, so I have the idle higher to stop it but if not hunting runs rough on idle. Tuner could not tune it out, replace afm and made it better but not fixed. Adjusted tps to correct position and base timing is 15deg

yeah r34 i think the reo must be trimmed, mine sits directly on the reo its a tight fit and (seems) to be cut. blitz return flow that is. but its a very basic cut so no big deal. make sure they supply 3 ply silicone because mine was fitted with 1 ply and it was thin and shit. seemed to be part of the kit

just go map, everything works so much better and you can clean up your pipe work. i have had so many issues because of a maf setup that would be prevented with a map. plus if you get a map it will be with a better ecu.

That's why you would have a d detro just to run a map. You get the power fc to run a maf. But get a vipec or autronic (whatever it's called) if you getting another computer to run map. Much better ecu

Also does anyone think my power fc could be causing it? I was also thinking a CAS sensor but I wouldn't think setting my base timing would be possible as it would be obviouse with a timing light if there was a problem (which I done when changing cams)

do you think its the same issue im having a seized valve (maybe from sitting around for so long) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423722-another-idle-hunt-issue/ please read my post

you cant just up the boost and expect it to work, you have to get at least a piggy back ecu to correct your AFR and adjust timing. the standard computer will most likely restrict you if you run higher the standard boost, and get new spark plugs and gap them from 1.1mm to 0.8mm. problem solved

no as i said i found leaks after the first tune, things a didnt mention about the tune as i was only pointing out the idle. we had some issues with the tune and it didnt pull as hard as i thought it would, he straight away said check for boost leaks. which i had plenty of, all are fixed. i replaced the maf when trying to find a solution for the hunt, which improved but didnt rectify, like i said now these 2 issues have been address a tune may fix it but i highly doubt it.

well it sounds like it could be my issue, its just weird its only at idle and only after touching the throttle and very rarely when not. you think there would be issues across the rev range considering wiggling wires changes its mind lol thanks anyway

lol and thats how we fix it