Jayden.K

I think the point is that I wont gain or improve anything buy going 4inch as the turbo doesn't need that space to do its job and the impeller itself isnt that big. The Turbo is low mount so it was going to be squishy with a 4inch. But I'll stick with my 3 inch pipe and use the reducer at the turbo. Thanks for all the input

Cool thanks I'm not worried about the Afm just the air flow up to the turbo being different maybe causing some dramas, the extra inch is pretty much the surge slots so all I was worried about was them not being utilised.

im installing a 3076r on my r34 and the intake pipe i have is a 3 inch, but i have a 4 inch anti surge housing on my turbo, so question is can i get away with a 3 to 4'' silicone adaptor at the turbo or will this be to restrictive having a 3 inch pipe coming to the turbo?? this is instead getting a new custom 4'' pipe to save a bit of time and money. but then i will have the reducer and the afm with the 4'' pipe (z32 has a 3'' housing).

shit fuel for sure. just so happen when you did something to the computer it sorted itself out. loves it

back to basics kids!!!

i have heard tyres that are not even chunky (normal sports tyres) be noisy like a bearing but it seems rare, you could have a noisy bearing for the next 100000km and it wont fail, and as you go faster it will emit a louder noise, special if its a lubrication issue as it gets hot. you wont get play unless the bearing is on its way out, but wear and tear and they get noisy. if it was a soild rear axel its hard to check for play due long solid axel hanging off the end, lucky its not a dirty old holden

maybe its your tuner??

ok cheers guys all useful information

i want to get some semi slicks for the drags so i can hammer it off the line with bugger all wheel spin, but i have had a few people say that they have to much grip and either you will break you driveline or wreck you clutch (3000 rpm launch i do). anyone had experience?? hd clutch and currently have 210rwkw but soon will have around 250rwkw +

make sure your bov isnt creeping open, and just check the tightness of all pipe work. you only get a leak at a certain point so it sounds like a small but its there

correct. so you are safe to remove it all

well can you open the door from the passenger side it should just open from the inside without touching the lock. as for what to do if you cant open have no idea. may have to suck it up and cut you door trim apart (last resort). and get another actuator from a import wreckers or negen, just jap ect. and search for oem products. as for if its just a rod, you can pop out the trim on the door handle (inside) remove 1 screw and pull the handle and lock out. then you can start playing with the rods from there

I'm running a twin bov setup and using my old rs so wanted to get another to much

Triple check you blocked that vacuum line properly and it has no holes. Otherwise your acc valve may be sticky

No. When you say remove ac do you mean your heater/evaporator box will the flaps inside? Ecu doesn't control your ac. It only recieves a signal to put the revs up when engaged. R34 the ecu disengages the compressor on wide open throttle. Don't no if r32 Is the same

Will just need a power and earth too the pump. Not hard to check. If both there and no noise when operating. Pump is stuffed. Squirters do get clogged up easy. But usually they still dribble a bit when blocked

Your lock actuator is shagged. Confirm that when you pull the door trim off. If a rod was jammed it would still open when you use the button but not the key. Electronic shit

You say the clutch feel had now change. 100% your clutch has called it quits.

It will be a wheel bearing that noise, they give a similar noise to 4wd tyres, I have a rear wheel bearing noise in my car but won't do anything unless it sounds terrible. It has a roll over noise usually. Jack you car up, drive it to te problem speed and put a stethoscope on the hubs and that will tell you. Btw keep your head low while checking lol

Engine mount

As above want a greddy bov type rs in working condition. also want a recirculating adaptor and flange that be great. Can't seem to find them on the Internet as I think they have stop making as there replaced by the rz. Cheers

bump te bump

Also I've seen some people not having to change any clearances due to the base circle being the same, and factory clearance being tighter anyway? Would this seem right because then I wouldn't have to worrie

as above im chasing these for my new cams, cheers

oh ok so they are shimless, great!!. QR25 what does that stand for isnt that another motor and what thickness are these buckets? also you mention you ''converted'' 2 neo heads to shimless what is required?