mungy

Hi mate have one here can do it express posted for $80

Not trying to be funny or entertaining, im trying to help you sell your stuff by letting you know what the brand new cost is.

Josh you need a kick to the crotch, please use the search tool next time, every topic you could ever imagine and every question has already been asked

Need a postcode to get a postage cost mate

I'll check in the morning and let you know mate.

Rotors are in good condition, $50 each, Z32 with plug is $120

AFTERMARKET PARTS: 2 BLITZ turn flow coolers also available with piping to suit R32 and R33. HKS HYPER-D fully adjustable coilovers for R34 Slotted and drilled rotors for R34 Height and damper coilovers for R33 available will check brand tomorow. Spitfire coilpacks for S1 R33 Strut braces for R33 and R34 front and rear, Rear cusco strut brace for S13 the big VG30 turbo available ( not aftermarket i know ) Z32 AFM with plug ( Genuine item ) Carbon Fiber air divider for s14 Nismo thermostat for SR20 2x BLITZ dual SBC available with loom and solenoids Nisstune for SR20DET Q45 AFM Greddy EBC with loom and solenoid ill post more if i remember what else i have, HAPPY TO PUT ON EBAY FOR INTERSTATE BUYERS

Edited - Admin

Have one in SA if still needed

Hi mate have a GTST shell here in SA, price will depend on how much you want left on the car, still has street rego as well.

sounds like the starter motor is f**ked

Accident or not mate its illegal to sell second hand seatbelts....There are dedicated cops who go around and try to catch people who sell them, just be carefull its heavy fines for doing it. And if you sell seatbelts to someone who doesnt install them propery, then they have an accident and injure themselves and cops ask them where they got em from, if they say it was you and can prove it ( like the post you made here ) you get a short stint in jail.

there has to be pressure all the way up to the reg and inside the fuel rail. the reg does exactly what its name is....regulates the pressure, but the pump has to be running to create the pressure, backyarder style is to pull of the feed line and crank the motor if fuel pressure is there it will spit alot of fuel out, now if there is pressure and no fuel in the cyliners then you have a faulty cas or faulty injectors

Its really going to come down to personal prefrence mate, they are both great engines and both have the potential to be high powered. my personal prefrence is the 26, but id rather spend the time dropping in a worked 26 and if it were me I would drive the 25 for as long as i could while i spend money building the 26. but you then run the possibility of doing what 99.9% of people do with big builds......give up half way because its too hard, too expensive, bills come up ect ect. If i were you i would keep the 26 to build, sell parts off the stag your not keeping to spend on the 26 build.

Advertised for yes....selling for...no, i can advertise one on gumtree for 100,000 cant i? that does not meanthats what it selld for, im just trying to save this guy from stabbing the 10th person who offershim 7.5k I sell 1 or 2 of these a month not one has ever sold for more than 8k, last one was for sale for 4 months and eventually sold for 5.5k. ( wasnt the cleanest car tho)

You know that drift gear knob is $60 brand new at autobahn

Where are you located mate

Yes that is the way to do it when you have someone available, however working in a dealership a while back we were always working on cars alone, the way I described is faster and can be done with one person only

No mate, as far as I know the abs system on the r32 does not have its own reservoir and will be bleed along with the rest of the system doing the above

Ok so have you done the usual checks? Fuel, spark, timing... Make sure the fuel hoses are on the right way too. If there is fuel pressure, good spark on at least 4 of the cylinders

Yes there is a way to check the cas, pull it off and leave it plugged in turn the ignition on and turn the cas with your fingers, if you hear the injectors click it's fine.

Bought and shipped to the yard, if anyone needs parts PM me, whole car is being wrecked. Perfect motor perfect box, clean interior.

Mate what you may consider a fair offer for a quick sale will be completely different to everyone else's idea of a fair offer for the first model of the r33's, they still made the r32 when your car was around. Considering the price of 33's ill give you a fair offer of $4000 for a quick sale. If not thats cool, I don't care, but a usual sale price for a series 1 r33 is between 5 and 6 thousand after about 3 or 4 months waiting time.

Not really, simple process. Always start with the rear left caliper as its the furthest from the brake master. Grab a clean bottle of brake fluid ( empty if possible ), if you can't get an empty brake fluid bottle grab any clean bottle about the same size and fill it with brake fluid about 1/3 full. Next grab a hose that you can squeeze over the caliper nipple making sure it seals over it properly and is long enough to go to the bottom of the bottle when the car is jacked up and the bottle sitting on the floor. Jack the jar up, take the wheel off, open the nipple up fully and squeeze the hose onto the nipple and stick the other end in the bottle making sure the hose is inside the brake fluid. Take the lid off the brake master and pump the pedal until ALMOST all the fluid is gone dont let it go dry, pour in the new fluid into the brake master until its almost overflowing, empty the bottle of old fluid you have sitting on the floor at the wheel and pour some new fluid into there and make sure you place the hose back into the bottle again making sure its inside the fluid. Then you pump the brake pedal SLOWLY 5 or 6 times and that will make sure all the old fluid is out and there is no air in that line. MAKE SURE YOU CLOSE THE CALIPER NIPPLE COMPLETLEY OFF before you remove the hose from the nipple, once closed remove hose and that caliper is done. Check the brake master and fill to full line if necessary. Go to the next caliper, now you place the 10mm ring spanner over the nipple first, then squeeze the hose over the nipple and again place into the bottle of fluid, open the nipple pump 5 or 6 times slowly, always make sure the hose is going down to the bottle and the bottle is LOWER than the caliper, close the nipple off BEFORE you remove the hose and move on to next caliper repeating process. Easy peasy

Haha love the build, I like it when someone actually builds it instead of just talking about it. Love the hope to have it re regoed one day and then BAM just cut everything out lol. Will def be following this looks wicked fun.