lukits01

2000? didnt hakkinen do pretty well that season? It wasnt total domination of ferrari Mclaren manage to fight it out

I think the F2004 is by far the fastest car in the field, in 2003 Williams still had the faster car and Mclaren had a more reliable car so it resulted in a close race between MS, kimi and JPM. But this year give MS the fastest and most reliable car and surprise surprise no one can catch him, except the Belgian GP when the mclaren for once didnt blow up. I agree its combination of driver and car that makes a winning team, and ferrari just have it so right Mclaren and Williams ... well they better get it right next year cause I dont think BAR and Renault will catch ferrari anytime soon although they seem to have the upper hand this season

I allready replaced my coils and it didnt change anything The sound is only when Im starting the engine it cranks over and then theres this mechanical click and the engine doesnt start My local mechanic says the sound means the timing isnt right

Yea I did have the SAFCII retuned and the car was running fine with 273rwHp for awhile but this problem started to show up and gradually got worse

Hey Evil did your problem occur right after you got your timing belt changed or did it slowly get worse and worse?

Would you be willing to sell the Rb26 CAS seperately?

sweet... is that a S15 strawberry face convertion? What does the noise sound like?

Mechanic allready tried changing the base timing but didnt seem to change much But it does sound like some sort of timing problem how could a timing problem cause overfuelling?

I need help!! I hope somebody here can shed some light into my problem I had a little mishap awhile back and had to replace my exhaust cam with HKS 256 with 8.8mm lift as well as my CAS and timing belt, About the same time my bosch 910 was installed in the car. This was done by a mechanic that didnt seem to have great knowledge on import cars It ran ok for awhile but the idle started to get rougher and rougher it stalls sometimes at the lights and if I free rev it, it would stall Now the car cant even idle, if I let go the throttle it would just stall sometimes when Im driving and I let go of the throttle, the engine would start struggling (can hear popping in the exhaust) But it seems ok at higher revs or when the car is allready rolling but there is shit all power Cold starts are horrible have to pump some gas and the engine takes awhile to start (can hear this strange clicking noise as well) I know the car is for some reason running REALLY rich... the wall behind my car is black from all the crap that comes out of the exhaust, and 40L of fuel only gives me 200km I've checked the engine for airleaks but there seems to be none. I've tried grounding the fuel pump, replaced the coils, the TPS and AFM seems ok because Im still getting correct readings from the SAFC. Yesterday I tried plugging a wolf3D I just bought and the car wont even start. Oh if it means anything, unplugging the O2 sensor didnt seem to do anything My local mechanic seems to think there's something wrong with the timing, something about the CAS sending the wrong info to the ECU. because something wrong with how the cam was mechanically installed, been meaning to take it to an import workshop but thought I would get some opinions Is this just because standard ECU cant take 256 ex cam? or is the CAS screwed? or maybe the cam wasnt installed correctly? Maybe a problem with fuel system? so any ideas? my mods are: Trust MX cat-back SS highflow cat RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe Apexi filter TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit SAFC-II Greddy Profec B EBC HKS 256 exhaust cam with cam gears Bosch 910 external pump mounted inline without surge tank malapassi FPR Wolf3D on the side waiting for me to fix this problem

I think they mean the Apexi Exhaust Valve Controller if so it suppose to decrease the sound from your exhaust by opening/closing a butterfly valve mounted usually behind the cat. handy stuff, sure beats a silencer any day

Hey Steve whats the power limit of GTR injectors? can they be made to work with a Wolf 3D since they're low impedance?

So what is the long term affect of installing the cams without first bleeding the lifters? does this also apply to changing cams in RB25 or RB26?

KIMI IS THE BEST THING TO HAPPEN TO MCLAREN SINCE AYRTON SENNA!!! Schumacher CAN KISS MY WEST ASS

just a question on dead coils... I have all the symptoms of a dead coil misfire on idle, misfire at low rpm, low power, high fuel consumption but the car also stalls, do dead coil/coils usually cause the car to stall? Also the problem seems to be gradually getting worse and worse when it started, it was only a random misfire now and again, now even starting the car is a hassle

I allready tried cleaning the AFM with spray on brake cleaner and rewiring the ground of the fuel pump but it hasnt changed a thing. how about you E_Lu-SHuN ?

I always thought the diagnostic computer would work on only Australian spec cars. Atleast thats what the Nissan dealer here said.

Check whats the color of the sticker on the AFM There's a pink sticker and a green one I know the series II R33 have pink AFM btw how did you do the diagnostic check up?

Hey I have the same problem and my car is also an automatic I had a little mishap awhile back and had to replace my exhaust cam with HKS 256 It ran ok for awhile but the idle started to get rougher and rougher now it stalls sometimes at the lights and if I free rev it, it would stall Cold starts are horrible have to pump some gas and the engine takes awhile to start (can hear this strange clicking noise as well) sometimes when Im driving and I let go of the throttle, the engine would start struggling (can hear popping in the exhaust) My mechanic seems to think there's something wrong with the timing, something about the CAS sending the wrong info to the ECU. But it seems ok at higher revs or when the car is allready rolling Is this just because standard ECU cant take 256 ex cam? or is the CAS screwed? or maybe the cam wasnt installed correctly?

bump anyone know? cause Im also interested to find out

203rwKW at 11psi But something is wrong with the car at the moment... pinging like crazy and it doesnt idle properly so Im saving for a full ECU, my dyno tuner seems to think thats the problem

thx INASNT I guess I am worrying about nothing, just wanted to make sure DezertEagle, honestly I think if you're planning to keep standard turbo and/or ECU then yea the SAFC is worthed. Im still using standard dump though Ive change my front pipe and have a high flow cat. I bought the SAFC because, due to the high boost and all my mods the ECU was hitting the fuel/boost cut so I wanted a quickfix and the SAFC solved that. If your car is allready experiencing this then I suggest the SAFC first, if not I would finish of the exhaust system and think about where to go after that. Personally I'd like to go full programmable ECU sometime in the near future. My mods are: Trust MX cat-back SS highflow cat RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe Apexi filter TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit SAFC-II Greddy Profec B EBC HKS 256 exhaust cam 8.8mm lift with cam gears Bosch 910 external pump malapassi FPR

Im not worried about the SAFC losing its memory Im worried that the ECU would get false reading from the AFM (due to the SAFC) and therefore adjust its map incorrectly or something like that

Hey Guys I asked this question awhile ago but never got a straight answer so thought I'd ask again. I have a SAFC thats allready tuned on my R33, suppose I was to reset my ECU (i.e. unplug the battery and bleed the electrical system). When I start my car again the ECU does a few diagnostics of some kind right? Is this affected by my SAFC settings?

when is this group buy going to commence anyway? if its still a few weeks off I might be interested

any chance this came from an auto car?