lukits01

Has anyone tried to control bigger injectors with a SAFC?? does it work?

Im also interested to know looks to me they still use the standard compressor and exhaust housing but machined out to take bigger turbine & compressor wheel.. some sort of T04?

money permitting, would use nittos but I dont think they come in 225s, so far Ive seen only 245s or larger How are the RT215 anyway? know a friend using them, he said they were noisy. Do they last long?

really?? cool, thats what Im after, looking for some semi slick or R-compound tyres to put on a pair of stock rims and use them only for the drag strip, some sidewall flex is always good for 1/4 mile cant do much else with an auto. any suggestions of what brand and type? was thinking RT215 Azenis, but then read in autosalon that they're track tyres

Why is that? I mean all the pro race cars seem to use cross drilled rotors so 225 is the widest tyre you can put on the stock rims?

not sure if I can send pics through pm so I'll just post the pics here here's the cat-replacement with cop covers comes with a used gasket and some weird bracket thats suppose to join with the front pipe.

Im about to upgrade my brakes and tyres soon and at the moment just trying to figure out my options Do R32 GTR rotors fit in a R33GTS-T with standard Nissan Calippers? I would most probably get some DBA4000 but I can get GTR rotors relatively cheap. Im just wondering if its worthed, because I heard the crossdrilling in the R32 GTR were prone to cracks. is there anything wrong with changing the front rotors only and leaving everything standard(rear rotors & pads) and finally what's the widest tyre you can fit on standard R33 GTS-T 16"? I heard 215s are fine, what about 225s?

there was a thread on the DIY section about it here's the link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=39405

I agree 227hp is a little low with a front mount My seriesII have the following mounts: RSR front pipe + standard dump Trust MX cat back High flow cat Apexi Pod filter (without CAI) Trust V-SPL Intercooler SAFC2 Profec B EBC Bosch 910 fuel pump (wasnt connected during the run) HKS 256 Exhaust cam on a recent run on shoot out mode made 273.3rwHP on 11PSI!!! oh and its an Automatic!! dont think you need a fpr, fuel pump is a maybe. HPI just did a feature on Z32 metre on a R33, they concluded it did nothing unless you're planning on 300+kw so dont think thats the problem maybe its the cat or the bleed valve, another possibility is your CAI box is too small and its actually limitting airflow how was the boost curve? could post dyno graph if you'd like

Hey what's the specs for your compressor housing? so its got a 66mm T04 compressor wheel (what trim?) what's the A/R of the compressor housing? is there some sort of rule to choosing a compressor housing when you've decided on the specs for turbine housing?

I thought I read you were going to modify this to fit in your R33? why the change of plans, just wondering

are R32 and R33 rails the same? Interested in the rail only...

I have a cat replacement pipe for R33GTS-T came with covers as well 3" diameter, RSR from memory found it at the wreckers sometime ago not sure how much it would cost

ahh it turns out that the CAS bearings were dead phew... still had waranty on that not the tensioner

yea more details pls is it painted? unpainted? (well considering its brand new I'll guess unpainted) Fibreglass or plastic? postage possible?

wow close call I had a neighbour with a HSV that wasnt so lucky (and these things come with 18s?) and we live on mounts bay rd apartments! the car was parked in front of the lobby! I came back after a night out at 2AM and saw his commodore on 4 bricks which was kind of a funny sight hahah the next morning he called the police and questioned a few of the tenants apparently it was done around midnight. oh the funny thing I almost forgot to mention, apparently after midnight one of the tenants came out and saw the car, but 2 of the rims were gone but the other 2 was still there. So he must have scared the thieves off, but he didnt report it to anyone so these guys came back later and finished the job with the last 2 I must say these guys are pretty daring or stupid

reflex just went through a similar problem due to my own stupidity I snapped the CAS keyway my mechanic said he sourced a nissan camshaft for $400 so f*** that and bought myself a HKS one for a bit more but before I did, I looked around at the wreckers here in WA and they were asking nowhere near that price. Dsturbd was offering me one for $150, pm him maybe he still has it. and some wreckers were asking around $200 and one was asking for $380 Just make sure its the exhaust cam cause the inlet one doesnt have the keyway and RB25 NEO have different camshaft alltogether

allready done found out I assembled the shocks with that brass cup thing upside down put them back on and no more clink clank oh does anyone know where to get that extendable rubber cover? you know the one that covers the shocks so dust doesnt get in? mine is pretty much completely gone

pstanbis sounds like the same problem Im having I bought a replacement timing belt going to let a mechanic check it out while changing the belt I'll let you know what they say

hey what kind of falkens are the 16" tyres?

A few weeks ago I tried setting my base timing to 15deg advance I lined the markers on the third white line after the orange(or red) line. Is this correct? at this time the CAS bolts was pretty much at the centre of its bracket but for one reason or another my CAS died and now I have replaced it with another one sourced from a RB25DE The thing is, with the new CAS, when I line up the bolts in the centre, the timing is way off. I adjusted it fully clockwise and I only manage to line up the markers with the 4th white line after the first orange one. All this time I used the same kind of timing light, so Im pretty sure its not the light. Is it possible that the CAS from the two engines give different readings?

Hey does anyone have any idea how the standard front shocks come together? I just changed my springs on the front shocks and Im getting this strange noise from my left suspension everytime I hit a bump. Im pretty sure I put everything back together the same way I took them out, because the right shocks seems fine, but I just want to make sure. some pictures or a description of the parts would help a lot

well I was about to do a guide as well but hey, guess you guys beat me to it hahaha I'll just add to this one then with some pictures Pic 1 After removing the rear seats and parcel shelve loosened the two bolts holding the suspension, circled RED, if the bracket marked with the BLUE lines gets in the way just take it off if you are uncomfortable with working in the car while its on the stands then undo the bolts completely, just remember to catch the shocks when it falls down later after you undo the bottom bolt (circled red at pic 3) Pic 2 this pic is just to show when you jack up the car (preferably with a hydraulic jack), use a point under the dif and place the stands under the swaybars. Dont really have a pic of the stand mounts and I did it wrong in the pics (which was actually quite dangerous hahahah) Pic 3 undo the bolt holding the shocks to the lug(RED) and if you've undone the top bolts then just be prepared. Tap the shocks slightly to remove it from the lower lug. Pic 4 use spring compressor on standard springs before you attempt to remove them (Surrounded in blue) and undo the top centre pillow mount nut (RED). I was simply changing to King Spring Lows so I didnt have to rebuild the shocks or anything, but Greg has covered how to install the bilsteins which are probably a lot better than my worned shocks. oh btw if you want to know the condition of your shocks, try compressing it with your arms(after you remove the springs) and count how long it takes to undo itself, good shocks usually take about 2 secs, near dead ones (like mine) takes freakin ages. lowered springs dont need compressing, just slide them in and tighten the top centre pillow mount nut just enough. Pic 5 I thought you needed to undo some of the bolts of the suspension arm to place the shocks back in, but I guess I was wrong. I didnt bother to try so I took off these bolts(RED) before placing my shocks back.

HAHAHAHA sorry couldnt help myself feel sorry for the guy though offcourse I wont spray water all over the coils thats just dumb Ive washed the engine a few times I usually cover the air filter and avoid spraying the electrics and keep the engine idling while you're washing seems fine the last few times I did it arent engines watertight anyway

I just had cams installed and I think my mechanic didnt put on the timing belt on correctly. The engine started making this distinct noise every time it has warmed up. My dyno tuner said either the bearings in the timing belt tensioner is stuffed or it wasnt adjusted properly. because apparently the belt was moving forwards and backwards rubbing againts the cover backing plate but a few days later the sound has completely disappeared so Im just wondering does the tensioner self adjust itself or something? How much are the tensioners to replace anyway? and where would I find them? wreckers? another question is Im about to wash the engine bay and I have left the timing belt cover off, so is it allright if the timing belt got wet? and if I were to replace the timing belt, is there that much of a difference between standard nissan items and aftermarket stuff like TRUST and NISMO? sounds hideously expensive for a blue piece of rubber is there any other cheaper aftermarket belts? or is nissan as low as it gets?