lukits01

Do the TOYO R888 heat cycle? I was informed that they dont...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but Im also interested in some more feedback on how these go for road use Im aware of the noise and wet weather grip when low on thread but considering these are OEM tyres for lotusses it cant be all that bad for road use, right? Im particularly interested if these tyres heat cycle as much as the RE55S anyone with experience with these tyres able to compare them with RE55S or R888 or DZ03?

The ones you are looking for is called CE28N Time Attack Edition was made in limited numbers by RAYS in 2006 I searched high and low for them, most seem to have been bought by workshops for their demo cars I manage to find a set on eBay out of HK and paid $3100 delivered for a set of 18*7.5J Ive seen sets arround for 350Z from the US but never with the right offset for skylines. Consider the titanium silver above, they are also a nice color

bump

Me too pls!

Price Drop

I was thinking, the idea was I would have the graph so I can learn to read it, gotta start somewhere right? Been reading this article it has some valid points: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html Since its just a dyno run, does it really matter what kind of shock I have? I just want to know what the adjuster knob is doing, not looking to get the shock rebuilt. I wonder why I didnt think of calling them ahahhaha Guess I was after recommendations more than anything

So how do you sign up for this track day? Just turn up at Barbagello race way?

Is there anywhere in Perth that can put shock absorbers on a dyno to get a read out? Wilkinson? WA Suspension? How much do they cost for a set of 4 and what do you get?

Make me an offer I can't refuse ppl

FOR SALE: 1996 Skyline GTS-t Silver Auto R33 Series II 95000Km (Engine Rebuilt at 75000Km) $25,500 ONO Engine Parts HKS 256/264 Step1 Cams HKS EX Cam Gear RB30 Convertion CP Pistons ARP Rod Bolts N1 Water Pump JJR Engine Damper Kit GREDDY Catch Can Magnetic Drain Bolt Intake Parts Blitz Sonic Air Filter Trust V-SPL Intercooler HKS SSQV Stainless Piping HKS 3037 Pro S Suspension Adjustable Whiteline Swaybars Front & Rear JJR Adjustable Castor Rods Adjustable Rear Camber Bushes Greddy Coilovers GTR Rear Strut Brace Nismo Rear Strut Brace Do-Luck Chasis Brace HICAS Lock Bar Rear subframe Pineapples Exhaust Parts 3" Dump and Front Pipe 3" High Flow Cat 3.5" HKS Hi Power 409 Fuel Parts 450cc High Flow Injectors NISMO FPR NISMO Fuel Pump Control Parts Greddy Profec B Spec I EBC Wolf3D V4 ECU Electrical Parts Splitfire Coils Apexi Grounding Kit 550CCA Sealed Battery Brakes & Tyres Hankook K104 F235/45/17 R255/40/17 17" Enkei Racing Peaks F17*7.5J R17*9J NISMO Braided Brake Lines Endless Straight 6 Front Rotors Endless SSS Pads Front & Rear Gearbox MV Automatic Shift Kit Gearbox Oil Cooler Interior Autometer Smoked Voltage Gauge Autometer Smoked Gearbox Oil Gauge Autometer Smoked Oil Pressure Gauge Autometer Smoked Oil Temp Gauge Autometer Smoked Water Temp Gauge Apexi Boost Gauge Navan Gear Knob Carbon Trim Gear Boot Orion 4*200W 4-Channel Amp Lotus 6.5" Splits Mp3 player/Ipod Connector Exterior Personalised License Plate "RB 30 WA" Supervision HID 6000k Wise Sports LED Tail Light Ganador Electric Aero Mirrors Tommy Kaira Rear Pods M-spec Side Skirts NISMO Side Indicators Drift Wing With minor tweaks to the gearbox will run 10s Call Senna 0433 208 079 or E-mail us at [email protected] NO TEST PILOTS Imported at 65000Km in 2002, First Owner in Australia Serviced every ~5000Km Always Use BP Ultimate Have receipts for modifications Pictures are with R33 GTR rims sold seperately No major scratches or dents, minor paint fade Tyres are 6 months old with plenty of tread ~80% Engine Built by Steve Lee Engine Tuned by Steve Thomas History of car at the following thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=83883 Spare Parts: Stock Castor Rods with Whiteline bushes Stock Series II Rear Wing Silver Stock Swaybars Front and Rear Stock R33 Weather Guards/shield Stock Exhaust cam gear Stock Intercooler includes piping Stock HICAS Rack Stock Springs Stock Front+Dump pipe Stock Cat Stock Auto ECU Stock Mud flaps Silver Stock Side Mirrors Stock Tail Lights pair Stock Space Saver Spare

Nice clean and shiny eheheh

Yup, shift it down to "2" and keep it in SNOW You will always be in 2nd

I have a pair from WISE Sports Japan, they are very good quality They have a rubber seals to stop water from coming in so they dont require that goey black sealant thing

i've found these sometime ago Suspension Tuning 101 http://www.corforums.com/smf/index.php/topic,1369.0.html and ANDY'S TOP TEN AUTOX DRIVING TIPS By Andy Hollis (Andy is a multiple National Solo Champion and an instructor for the Evolution Solo School) Originally posted on Miata.Net [Just got back from a weekend of teaching Evolution schools and thought I'd share some stuff that I must have said a thousand times.] 1] Position first, then speed. Positioning the car perfectly is more important than trying to attain the highest potential speed. For example, you will drop more time by correctly positioning the car nearer to slalom cones than you will by adding 1 or 2 MPH in speed. Same with sweepers (tight line). Same with 90-degree turns (use all of the track). Also, position is a prerequisite for speed. If you are not in the correct place, you will not be able go faster. Or at least not for very long! 2] Turn earlier...and less. To go faster, the arc you are running must be bigger. A bigger arc requires less steering. To make a bigger arc that is centered in the same place, the arc must start sooner (turn earlier). 3] Brake earlier...and less. Waiting until the last possible second approaching a turn and then dropping anchor at precisely the correct place so that the desired entry speed is reached exactly as you come to the turn-in point is quite difficult to execute consistently. Especially when you consider that you get no practice runs on the course, and the surface changes on every run, and you aren't likely to be in exactly the same position with the same approach speed on every run, etc. Better to start braking a little earlier to give some margin of error. And by braking less you can either add or subtract braking effort as you close in on the turn-in point. This will make you consistent and smooth. 4] Lift early instead of braking later. Continuing with the philosophy of #3, when you need to reduce speed only a moderate amount, try an early lift of the throttle instead of a later push of the brake. This is less upsetting to the car, is easier to do and thus more consistent, and allows for more precise placement entering the maneuver (remember #1 above). 5] Easier to add speed in a turn than to get rid of it. If you are under the limit, a slight push of the right foot will get you more speed with no additional side effects. On the other hand, if you are too fast and the tires have begun slipping, you can only reduce throttle and wait until the tires turn enough of that excess energy into smoke and heat. Don't use your tires as brakes! 6] Use your right foot to modulate car position in constant radius turns, not the steering wheel. In a steady state turn, once you have established the correct steering input to maintain that arc, lifting the throttle slightly will let the car tuck in closer to the inside cones. Conversely, slightly increasing the throttle will push the car out a bit farther to avoid inside cones. It is much easier to make small corrections in position with slight variations in the tires' slip angle (that's what you are doing with the throttle) than with the steering wheel. 7] Unwind the wheel, then add power. If the car is using all of the tire's tractive capacity to corner, there is none left for additional acceleration. At corner exit, as you unwind the wheel, you make some available. If you do not unwind the wheel, the tire will start to slide and the car will push out (see #6 above). 8] Attack the back. For slaloms (also applicable to most offsets), getting close to the cones is critical for quick times (see #1). To get close, we must move the car less, which means bigger arcs. Bigger arcs come from less steering and require earlier turning (see #2). Now for the fun part... When you go by a slalom cone and start turning the steering wheel back the other way, when does the car start to actually change direction? Answer: When the wheel crosses the center point (Not when you first start turning back!) How long does that take? If you are smooth, it takes .25 - .5 seconds. Now, how long is a typical person's reaction time? Answer: about .5 seconds. Finally, how long does it take to go between slalom cones? Answer: Typically on the order of 1 second. Given all of that, your brain must make the decision to begin turning the steering wheel back the other way just *before* you go by the previous cone!! Since this is a mental issue, a good visualization technique to get used to this is to think about trying to run over the back side of each slalom cone with the inside rear tire of the car. To hit it with the rear tire (and not the front), the car must be arcing well before the cone and the arc must be shallow. Attack the back! 9] Hands follow the eyes, car follows the hands. 'Nuf said. 10] Scan ahead, don't stare. Keep the eyes moving. Looking ahead does not mean staring ahead. Your eyes must be constantly moving forward and back, and sometimes left and right. Glance forward, glance back. Your brain can only operate on the information you give it. Bonus Tip: Don't forget the stuff in between the marked maneuvers! Too often we think of a course as series of discrete maneuvers. There is typically more to be gained or lost in the areas that are in between. Pay special attention to the places where there are no cones, as MUCH time can be saved/made-up there.

have one too if u still need it

Can anyone help send me the terminals to WA? being using the ghetto screws and washers connections and its biting me back on the ass hahah

Cool, thanks Were these the earlier qualifying runs?

I have a pair of Red Recaros SR4 if you are interested They are OEM Honda DC5 Integra Type R seats Im located in Perth if that helps

I would imagine that even though its $55/event The WASCC membership would be something like $250/year?

cheers bubba keep it coming ahhaha

Whats the "$97/year" for? CAMS license?

cool, anymore vids? There were quite a few skylines in the Street Fighter class RB 30 WA best run was 11.6

What time? And what does it take to be a WASCC member?

If you are going to modify your Auto R33 here is my story http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=83883 For ECU I'd say go Wolf3D V500 for auto support John and Steve at Top Racing would be able to help you out