09ONE_32

Hey Guys, I have an OS Giken Twin plate clutch and matching flywheel for sale. Clutch has been rebuilt ~ 1000km ago by NPC and is in Near perfect condition. Can remove friction plates for inspection (no signs of wear at all) Cost ~ $850 to rebuild so I'm chasing $900 ono. Pickup in Brisbane or I can arrange postage at buyers expense. Contact via PM or SMS 0403 187 051

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Ford sell similar stuff to the bunnings but is thicker. It works quite well I have found. They use it for the XR6T heat sheilding.

No I'm still using the clutch fan. I have found it to be the most effective for cooling as I mainly do trackwork with my car. I hadn't thought of the "fan flex" issue you describe but this could also be my problem as the p/s belt is closer to the fan than stock as well. I would love to actually see what the belt looks like after it has come off but have never been able to find one! Seems strange I know, but I honestly looked for over 30mins walking up and down a ~ 400m section of industrial estate trying to find the belt but it was nowhere (yep checked under the car to see if it was hung up anywhere) T04GTR Yeah I think I will just order the idler setup and stop f**king around, it's no fun trying to wind off full opposite lock off throttle on the exit of corners at the top of fourth when the car starts gripping up!

I knew I couldn't be the only one that has had this drama. I definately believe the p/s hub is undampened as I have been able to hit boost and it will stay on however it seems when I hit rev limiter is when the problem really happens. Dale FZ1 I try and keep it off limiter but it comes onto boost like a freight train and goes from ~4000rpm to rev limit instantly in 2nd / 3rd. 4th gear can keep it off limiter momentarily if I pedal it but if I havent lost the belt in 2nd or 3rd it's gone by the time I back off in 4th lol. I have got another belt so will crank some serious tension into it (more than I think I need) and see how I go. scotty nm35 They are nice looking underdriven 4 rib pulleys. I found lots of them! R32 TT Awesome! I was thikning about an idler or something of the like if all else failed as a last resort before changing to a Gilmer drive kinda setup. Lots of people are telling me to change the harmonic balancer back to a 4 rib to solve my problem. The thing is, my engine internals have been balanced with the Atomic balancer so if at all possible I dont want to throw that all out by putting a different balancer on just to solve what should be a relatively easy fix. Looking at the Ross idler it seems that it would keep a more constant tension on the belt but also increase the tension as well? This is probably going to be my best long term solution as I'm guessing that placing epic amounts of tension on the belt will result in worn bearings in the p/s pump or would I just end up chewing out the belts faster (not an issue for me)because the belt is fairly small being a 3 rib to begin with?

Can't seem to find anywhere that has a 3 rib pulley! Anyone have any more ideas where to find a 3 rib pulley. I have been looking for ~ 3months online but haven't come up with anything. Surely a company will do aftermarket pulleys underdriven or whatever???

I'm already running a RB25 P/S pump and have already eliminated HICAS and have a custom P/S reservoir. Run-It-Hard Thanks, will try CBC and bursons today. I would have thought I could have found one on the net through Ross or ATI but they have nothing! The Mafia If anything I would expect the additional power / torque to make the belt "slip" and have the harmonic balancer spin inside the belt not "grip" and throw it. Also the load of the P/S pump is a constant force so the belt isn't under any additional force from the extra power. I'm kinda thinking now that my engine is flexing a fair bit more with the additional torque and may be throwing out the alignment of the belt. This would cause the belt to run straight when free revving but not when under load. My plenum is making contact with my clutch slave (can see the marks) with the additional power so engine is definately flexing more than before. But today I'm off to source a 3 rib pulley and see if that solves the dramas, as long as it's fixed the technicalaties of why it's happening can stay unknown!

Straight edge confirms pulleys are perfectly aligned, just as they always were. Belt definately looks fine when mounted and running. Can do 8K free rev and still runs perfectly. I'm sure it's not an alignment issue otherwise it would come off with the above test.

Not obvious really as it was fine running in that configuration for over 1.5 years, everything stayed the same except I increased power. I wouldnt have thought additional power / torque would cause the belt to kick off as I have never had an issue previous. Also doesn't do it on the dyno while under load only when being driven hard. Either way, anyone know where I can aquire a 3 rib p/s pulley? I have had a fair bit of a search and can't seem to find anything and was thinking I may need to get one made.

Hey hey, I have an issue with my R32 power steering which I can't seem to work out. Engine setup is RB25/30 in a 32 using a RB25 power steering pump and an Atomic harmonic balancer. The balancer has 3 ribs for the p/s belt while the actual p/s pulley on the pump is a 4 rib. The problem I am having is the car always seems to kick the belt as soon as it comes onto boost and hits rev-limiter, wheather im applying lock or not the belt comes off and I can never find them again. I'm up to ~$130 in belts so far and none have stayed on for more than about 4 full boost stabs. The harmonic balancer and power steering pulley all seem to be lined up correctly and the belt runs "true" and I have only had this problem since changing my turbo setup (bigger, more power)and am at a loss as to why it continues to happen. I have played around with tension and it seems as though the tighter I tension the belt the longer it will stay on however it's not even a full lap at QR (drifting). I cant seem to make it come off by free revving and I have run a sraight edge along the pulley and harmonic balancer and they line up perfectly. The only thing I am thinking is that maybe a 3 rib power steering pulley may help me out as the belt won't have the extra room to move in a 3 rib pulley like it does with the standard 4 rib pulley. Although I am still at a loss to explain why this is happening now when it was perfectly fine before I changed my turbo setup and started making and additional ~140rwhp. Anyone else have this problem? Any bright ideas cause I'm stumped!

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Bump, Still have Pistons etc

Sorry guys. The Radiator is in VGC --- Comes with 1.3bar pressure cap!!! I just replaced it with an aftermarket alloy one. I am located in Brisbane, Northside.

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Do you remember when they only use to run 1 track? That was epic line ups, but I kept going back for more.

Yep, that can be an epic distraction... Damm hott bitches.

Ethanol is made from natural bi-products and is the same alcohol you find in your drinks (Jim Beam etc) lol

RB25/30 can be registered legally as the emissions gear is on the head... Which is off a newer engine (RB25)

Standard RB30E, which is 10:1. If used in a Hybrid RB30 they work out to be 8.2:1

I have some items left over from my RB25/30 build and I need the garage space so the following is for sale and going cheap. RB25DET radiator and clutch fan VGC - $50 RB25DET power steering pump VGC never leaked or anything when I had it on the car - $50 ----- SOLD RB30E head complete. Is from a 170,00km old engine VGC, I only needed the block. - $50 RB30E forged pistons for RB25/30 build Brand new is box with teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated crowns complete with chrome moly rings . I ended up going for a different compression ratio. - $500 RB25DET engine mounts - VGC $25

I have some items left over from my RB25/30 build and I need the garage space so the following is for sale and going cheap. RB25DET radiator and clutch fan VGC - $50 RB25DET power steering pump VGC never leaked or anything when I had it on the car - $50 RB30E head complete. Is from a 170,00km old engine VGC, I only needed the block. - $50 RB30E forged pistons for RB25/30 build Brand new is box with teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated crowns complete with chrome moly rings . I ended up going for a different compression ratio. - $500 RB25DET engine mounts - VGC $25

S2 RB25DET will make more power and it's not because of the coil packs and wiring... They have a slightly better turbo with a nylon compressor wheel. Go the RB25DET conversion into the R32. It changes a good car into a awesome one.

Drove my manangers STI Liberty lots of times and am really not that impressed, espically for a $70K car. I guess it all depends on what you are you to.