09ONE_32

Has anyone had experience with JHH? It's a name which pops up from time to time.

Thanks guys, Will give Dan a buzz on lunch.

I agree totally. When people compare how long an engine has lasted they really need to take into account what the vehicle is used for. I have busted 2 x RB25's on the track with 280RWKW @ 1bar. They both lasted for about a year before letting go. I am sure (know for a fact) that they would have gone strong for lot longer if the car wasn't almost purely for trackwork. I have all the support mods and a very very safe (read power compromising) tune on low boost but the kind of stresses that they have to put up with on the track is just asking too much from a 15yr old factory engine.

Hi Guys, What are some good places in Queensland (will send away if I have to) to get my RB30DET built? I have pretty much everything I need ready to go, and just need a good quality engine builder with experience building RB's for track work. I am looking to get it started ASAP and don't mind paying for a quality job/service. Post who your preferred builder is and where they are located and why you recommend them. Thanks.

What sort of tolerances/clearances are best for a street/mostly track RB30? Is it worth going for RB26 N1 oil + Water pumps or just use a new R33 RB26 oil pump and RB25 water pump off my old engine? Is it best to run the engine in on the dyno? The reason I ask is because I will need to have the ECU retuned as I will be upgrading injectors/fuel rail when building the engine. Also I have a HKS cast manifold with a rebuilt BB T04S (GT comp wheel) 38mm wastegate and I am worried that I won't be able to control boost with the RB30. This setup on the RB25 was fine and I could run 7psi (wastegate spring) but will the extra capacity cause a problem with maybe the wastegate running out of flow? Should I look at borrowing a stock manifold and RB25 turbo off a mate to run the engine in?

Glass scraper will do the trick. You won't lose any paint... Unless your a clutz.

You don't want to use truck tyres. Believe it or not, but for drifting you actually want as much grip as you can get (once you get past the learner stage) Grip = Speed and angle = bullshit fun. Best idea is to find a good tyre shop and make friends. I have befriended a place close to me and the manager puts aside all the second hand 17's and I come in and get 12 rims fitted up at a time. They don't charge me for strip&fit only the tyres.

SOLD Please delete thread

ah touche I didn't look at it that way. Can anyone comment on how effective ceramic coating the piston crowns is? What about teflon coating the skirts? Is it worth the $$$ and will it make a difference in engine reliability/life?

Maybe the RB30 is that efficent that it's flowing enough exhaust gas at idle, and the stock turbo is small enough that said amount of exhaust flow will spin the turbo fast enough to displace a positive amount of air?

Anyone have any input about hone pattern? Tolerances? Bearing clearances?

I was having a chat to an engineering shop about this. The thickness of the ceramic coating can be varied, with a thinner coating being less susceptible to the hot spot issue but if it's coated correctly then you won't have this problem (according to them). Something else I was thinking about is the power loss the piston oil squirters produce. Surely at 7000rpm with 100PSI of oil pressure shooting the underside of the piston as it tries to move down the bore would be power robbing in some way?

Hi Guys, I have a brand new Twin plate clutch for sale with billet alloy flywheel. Chasing $1500 ono I bought a whole heap of parts off a guy for my RB30 build and this new clutch came in the package. I already have an OS Twinplate in the car which I will be using so have no use for this clutch. Item is a custom made job from Direct Clutch and comes with Billet Alloy flywheel. With clutch and flywheel togeather the combo weighs about as much as a stock flywheel Will post up pics tomorrow if I remeber to bring home digi from work.

I am in the midst of building my RB30DET and this thread has now got me a little worried... If there are problems with re-boring RB30 blocks, wouldn't rebuilding a RB20/25/26 (with a re-bore) produce the same symptoms/problems if the re-bore wasn't done correctly? If the ring to bore clearance isn't set up correctly or if the hone pattern on the bore is not right and then engine begins to get some blow-by and starts using oil, whats the worst case scenairo? You pull down engine and re-hone the block or ditch it and grab another block and transfer all the parts over? Just chasing a few answers for aboce questions to help me sleep better...

I don't think I have ever hit boost without load on the engine with any of my different engine/turbo setups. You should be able to get the BOV to vent though.

Item: Custom 1000hp Twin Plate Clutch + Billet flywheel Age: Brand new Condition: As above Price: 1500 ono To Fit: (What car) All RB boxes Location: Brisbane (will post at buyers expense) Contact: PM Comments: I bought a whole heap of parts off a guy for my RB30 build and this new clutch came in the package. I already have an OS Twinplate in the car which I will be using so have no use for this clutch. Item is a custom made job from Direct Clutch and comes with Billet Alloy flywheel. With clutch and flywheel togeather the combo weighs about as much as a stock flywheel Will post up pics tomorrow if I remeber to bring home digi from work.

I would refer to it as a "freshen up" as per my previous post. Either way it's better than a 120,000km old RB25 with 120psi across all cylinders.

It is open to interpretation I think But usually most people will refer to a rebuild as all new (usually performance) internals. I am curious as to why you didn't do a full re-build on this engine as the labour would have cost a bit? Or were you in a tight spot and needed the vehicle back on the road?

Well I don't think that is considered a "rebuild" as such. It's more of a "freshen up". Depending on who buys it I don't think you will get more than $3,500.

Stock RB25 clutch will not do 300rwhp. You would be lucky for the clutch to last a couple of weeks with 250rwhp. Why do you want to know the specs on a stock turbo? As far as I know, the T25 flange doesn't flow quite as well as a T3 flanged manifold.

As above. If the car is going to be used for track use then just be aware that at those power levels an internally stock RB25DET WILL be a timebomb. If driven as a street car though, with a good tune it will stay togeather for years.

What makes you think that you will get silent power? I though that noise = low restriction = more flow

There were a few models of turbo bikes from the factory, so a turbo from one of these would probably be suitable but finding one may be another story. Something to think about is oiling? How are you going to lube it? External pump or just jam pack the oil feed/return with a high temp grease? Suss out youtube, there has been manya turbo charged mower posted on there.

Ceramic dust??? How does dust from the exhaust turbine get into your engine? I was under the impression that when the turbo's fail it's the ceramic exhust wheel that delaminates from the shaft due to the glue/bonding agent can't cope with the additional heat generated by extra boost. If you continue to run the engine after the exhust wheel has delaminated then the whole rotating assembly will be horribly out of balance, causing the metal compressor wheel to scrape the compressor housing and sending fine shavings of metal through your engine.