09ONE_32

I have been told by a few good sources that those walbro pumps are pretty dodgy. The are really only rated at 400hp at the engine. Don't skimp on fuel delivery, it's not worth running lean and detonating. Go the 044 Cheap insurance if you ask me.

Yep crashed and wrote off my first car. MX-6 Turbo. I was as cut as a mother****er. Was just cruising around a corner in the wet after being out all night before still feeling so seedy...Then a gum tree just jumpped out an hit me. Was cut as a mother****er

Yeah, my 32 starts like a **** as well, I have to wait until it is fully primed, then to start it I have to give it gas until it catches, then after that it is fine. will only happen when it is the first start, or when it has been sitting and become cold again. This leads me to believe that I have a dicked cold start sensor.

well actually the two different octane ratings means that no the fuels won't mix in the tank. The specific gravity of the fuels is different, due to their different octane rating, the 98 is denser and will make it's way below the 95. But yeah no problem in putting half and half in the tank.

Yep, not always tyre size that is most important, quality. A good get of 225's will easily outperform a pretty dodgy set of 255's.

If you are chasing big power, the NICCS is a better choice of block. The block is thincker and cast? Im not entirely sure but this is why it is a bit heavier than the silvertop

I was tossing up this idea, and i came to the conclusion...why would you? Fitting an RB25 is all well and good but for about 2k more you could get an RB30DET built with some nice bits and pieces, (forged pistons, arp bolts, better water/oil pump, slight head work etc) You are still fitting a good engine don't get me wrong, however it is second hand, which you don't have the history from, and has a high static CR (which I don't like) The RB30DET looks like a winner for me, extra displacement again, and will be a brand new engine, built for your specs, will be a lot more responsive than the RB20 for sure, and also the RB25 with heaps of head room for improvement. These are just my thoughts, if you are going to do it don't do it by halves...mmmm RB30DET

Yeah, I am going with what SK said. Not just because he is a guru, but I have the same problem only heaps worse. R32 GTST high flo R34 turbo. When I am in 5th driving on freeway even a slight hill, and I do mean slight, doing 3k if i go above 10vac, is will stutter shake the whole car boost gauge jumps like a ****er (it compressor surges) Problem being as my self diagnosis goes, is that the compressor wheel fitted is to efficent for the size of the exhaust turbine. So at certin RPM and throttle positions the engines volumetric efficency is not great enough to use all the air the turbo is producing so it backs up and begins to compressor surge. This is what I believe is happening anyway, but I am probably wrong so feel free to correct me.

1.2 bar with a 2530 is fine, should make around 220-230rwkw. I would also say that a high 12 isn't out of the question at all. I have 205rwkw, and beat a 13.00 supercharged VN buy a car length on the roll from 60 three times in a row. so I'm hoping for a high 12 when i go down the strip in a few weeks.

Yeah I'm not sure about this hey, but I was surprised to see that my car has a revcut at 8500 aswell, didn't have a clue why this was, all it has is an SAFC, but it has no speed cut either.

Well my experiences of RACV inspections were quite the opposite to what most people have said (but still just as bad) Instead of missing things on my car (which they did also) they bagged pretty much everything on it. The cooler, exhaust, location of turbo??? I am still using the stock manifold. What got me was when he told me that I had 2 vacume leaks in my intake system. "Point these out please" I asked. He pointed to my B.O.V and the line to my boost gauge. I slapped my self across the head for wasting my time taking the car to be inspected by a god dam clown.

Yep noticed much the same as everyone has previously stated. I had, and I do mean HAD to fill up, and the only fuel that was around was optimax, didn't want to use it but yeah nothing else around, so I decided that I would only put $10 in just to get me to where I knew the next BP was. And I swear that 40min drive was so shitful, the car almost stalled so many times coming up to lights and just ideling at the lights, couldn't work out WTF was wrong only conclusion that I could draw was that the change in fuel didn't agree with my car and tune. Filled up at BP, full tank still ran like a bag of shit for another 15min then cleared up and was sweet. Never using optimax again.

Yeah I need to know the same thing. Except its for a R32. When I flash my highbeams, I swear it's like i'm using spotlights trying to find possums in the trees. (happened on mountain run, caught reflection of possum's eyes in tree, but absolutely no sign of the road) They are so out of alignment.

I work at Woolworths, make pretty poor money (in the scheme of things). But Yeah lots of hard work and saving, and of course you will have to go without things. Im 19 and living at home. I have SFA posessions, no dvd player or vhs player or PS2 or even a colour TV in my room (also no girlfriend). People tell me that I work so long and hard and I have nothing to show for it, (drive my shitty old VL to work), I just tell them next time they pop round, to check out whats in the garage nextdoor, usually shuts them up. And hey who said you have to give up drugs...

Yeah pretty much what everyone else said, However about the whole loan thing, I was kinda in the same situation as you...sort of. I was, at your age and still am obsessed with cars. I too wanted a phat as car as my first, and no mine wasn't a skyline, but yeah I saved 4 ages and bought an MX-6 turbo. No I didn't have insurance on it...I didn't even try. Then got a VL turbo, sold that got a NA VL, (still have it) Then got a loan 2 days after my 18 B'day and bought silvia SR20DET. Now have skyline and more than happy. Point is if you pick a decent car that you know you will be happy with from the start...do it. About Insurance, well I still only have CTP on my skyline, which doesn't worry me because I couldn't afford full comp no chance. It is a risk, but I believe it is worth it (not even going to pay twice the price of my daily driver just to insure my skyline for a year)

I have been told of cars making in excess of 1800rwhp on the standard block all day everyday (although not from a real great source) I was under the impression that the N1 blocks were no different than the standard RB26 blocks except for different sump baffling.

Yeah R33 brakes will be a pretty good upgrade for an R32 GTST, They produce good stopping power on an R33 which is a fair bit heaiver than an R32 and I believe that the 33 rotors are bigger which will help with brake fade issues aswell.

Yeah dude you won't really get a reading on the boost gauge if there is not much load on the engine. The most you will get is about 1psi or so but even then you will still have to rev it to redline to even get that. If you have a atmospheric venting BOV you will still hear it vent though because there will be pressure built up in the intake.

Yep still the internally standard RB20 The turbo is a GCG highflo of an r34gtt turbo. I made 286rwhp (207rwkw) On 15psi. Boost comes on like a freight train though. Looking to get a retune done at chiptorque on 18psi, turbo should make around 220rwkw on that psi.

Ok was at Aspley with my car, and these guys were geeing me up for a run for the past 5 weeks or so and I couldn't run them because I needed to get my bigger fuel pump, because I was leaning out at around 10psi with the new turbo. Finally they come up to me again after fuel pump install and tune. They told me that I was going upagainst a 5L VN and pointed to a black kitted VN parked no to far away. "it's got extractors, exhaust, chip, and a cam" Thats it I said? to which they replied yep. So we cruise on out to the highway, on the way out the VN gives it a little while alongside me, and a particulsr sound grabs my attention... yes I herd that whine of a supercharger winding up. My mate herd it aswell, so we figured we were in for a decent run. Had a run form 80 in third and he pulled 2 car lengths while i was lagging, They were all yelling and laughing shit as they tore away form me. Caught up and had a run from 100. different story, they pulled half a car length, then i came onto boost and pulled past them changing into 4th. On the way back down the freeway raced from 2nd at about 20. He broke traction hardcore but still pulled 2 car lengths wheelspinning away from me as I was lagging then I hit boost broke traction, hooked up again at top of second, hit third spun till about 120, hooked up and once again passed them changing into 4th. Was a lot of good clean fun.

I am really interested in this subject, and am looking at setting up a system for myself, most likely methnol injection rather than water injection because of the better returns. I have been told on many occasions that people running a methnol injection system have dramatically reduced intake temps. I have seen pics where a N14 pulsar with an SR20DET conversion actually had condensation on the intake manifold, because it got so cold. Methnol also evaporates much much faster than water, so this is why the added cooling effect on the intake charge?

I think that it will just be a coil pack, but you have checked the spark plugs haven't you? The injector/s are all working fine, no blockages or partial blockages.

Another way to help tell if the car has had k's wound back is to check if the factory bushes are still in place in the suspension. These won't last 100,000km so if they are still there and not aftermarket items there is a good chance that the kms are genuine. However they could have been replaced with factory items, but why would you if you can get better aftermarket ones for about the same price.

Thinking about it... is the clutch fluid full? did you get under the car and see if there is any fluid leaking? is there any kind of a smell? when the car is ideling put the clutch in and out, maybe in the garage or in a confined space so you can hear any different noises it makes while you do this.

hmm so it was driving fine before you stopped (at a set of lights) ?? and put it in third to take off? and it is a GTR?? more details dude. and by the way you should put it in 5th and let the clutch out to see if it is slipping. but really a slipping clutch on a car with any decent amount will easily be felt when it comes onto boost.