09ONE_32

Umm possibly not. You really need to give a better description of what went on. did you just come out to drive it this morning and it wouldn't go? were you flogging it last nite and it made a bang and would't go? could possibly be a drive shaft/ tailshaft or input shaft from the gear box all of which would have made a bang if they broke. tell us more dude, also from sig I'm guessing a GTR?

Well my mate has a 180 and the sound (flutter) is from the stock bov, he has a pod filter in the engine bay, it is just the sound of the stock BOV sounding through the filter, it will be louder on higher boost. On my car I have awersome flutter (everyone loves the sounds my car makes) this is only on low boost under about 8psi, but when I boost up i get more of a normal BOV venting sound. I have a turbosmart supersonic type 3 BOV I also have a bigger turbo so that helps becasue of increased airflow.

I think that everyone has missed the most crucial part (worst) about an auto. It's the torque converter, these "use up" a fair bit of power which in a manual would have been transfered to the wheels. Also why do people use close ration 6 speed gear boxs? becasue the closer the ratios and the more gears you have will equate to a higher average power throughout the powerband. A good driver in a manual will always beat an auto unless we are talking about big power figures, then the auto wins, but for most street racers the manual is the go. And about not losing boost through gear changes, If you have a properly sized turbo and gear ratios you will not fall off boost between changes, it should be like you never lost boost at all. Also a clutch is a great way to minimise turbo lag, if you are spooling while the other guy is boosting past you, hit the clutch, induce some wheelspin and you will be boosting instantly.

Yeah I read about bedding in new rotors, I believe that there was an extremely informative article in autospeed about it. Maybe you should look it up?

I Have already booked my car in for a compression test. Kinda sus as to why it is doing it, I haven't thrashed it, and before me it didn't have too many mods. The only thing I can think of is that, just before I bought it(like 2 days) the guy put a new bigger highflowed turbo on. I didn't boost it at all because I was sus to the standard fuel pump, and I had suspicions that it wouldn't be able to keep up to the demand even on low boost, my suspicions were confirmed on the dyno. I can only thing that maybe, the guy before me had given it a thrash before handing it over, and run lean and encountered some detentation. I so hope not but it is the only thing I can think of, becasue I treat my car with the upmost respect, and never leave things to chance.

Yeah i'm not too keen on going down to GC on thursday nite, gotta work at 5am next morning. I would be heaps interested in meeting up with some more brissie people.

Thanks guys for your replys. I was not too worried, because it doesn't have any of the other assosicated problems with blown rings and ring lands. When engine is running open the oil filler cap, and no escaping air, not using any oil. I know what you mean about the oil in the engine bay, when I picked up my car from it's first good tune, Read (decent power, after fuel pump and turbo went on) There was oil over the windscreen, and through the engine bay. What I was doing to combat the problem, was a small piece of 100MPH tape around the top of the dipstick when it is sticking into the sump, then a small zip tie around the neck. It's not really clamped tight at all but it stays in, so yeah I figured that I didn't have heaps of blow by. Once again thanks for the replys.

Hey, how you all doing? I have this problem, ever since my car was TUNED, by a specific Performance place. It had never done this before, however now it does. As soon as I saw the dipstick had "popped up" I thought bad stuff, and yeah I had sat down and thought about it and come to the conclusion that it must be shot rings to allow the blow-by to pressurise the sump and blow out the dipstick. I was worried, but I thought that it may also be because The oil breather line was not plumbed into the intake, it was just cut off and blocked, installed oil catch can and yeah it still blows out. The mods I have are: FMIC, Button clutch (great for skids) 600hp in tank pump, SAFC, And the turbo is a T3 highflow. It is making 205RWKW on 15psi. If my rings were blown would it still be making this power? No oil smoke when dumped/revved or anything, just runs like a dream. should I notice anything in particular? By the way this has been going on for 6 months and no drop in performance. Engine has 73,000km on it. Any ideas? $1200 for a new RB20?

Sorry, I should have probably started my own thread in forced induction, will do now. Forget I was ever here...

umm yeah about blowing out the dipstick... I have had this problem ever since my car was TUNED, by a specific Performance place. It had never done this before, however now it does. As soon as I saw the dipstick had "popped up" I thought bad stuff, and yeah I had sat down and thought about it and come to the conclusion that it must be shot rings to allow the blow-by to pressurise the sump and blow out the dipstick. I was worried, but I thought that it may also be because The oil breather line was not plumbed into the intake, it was just cut off and blocked, installed oil catch can and yeah it still blows out. The mods I have are: FMIC, Button clutch (great for skids) 600hp in tank pump, SAFC, And the turbo is a T3 highflow. It is making 205RWKW on 15psi. If my rings were blown would it still be making this power? No oil smoke when dumped/revved or anything, just runs like a dream. should I notice anything in particular? By the way this has been going on for 6 months and no drop in performance. Engine has 73,000km on it.

1992 R32 M-Spec Skyline Perfrct condition, immaculate interior, brillant wine red factory paint. Big frontmount, pod with cold air intake under bumper, Highflow T3 From R34 GTT. Turbosmart bleed valve, Apexi SAFC, 3in full mandrel bent exhaust with 4in tip, Brass button clutch, 550hp internal fuel pump, supersonic type 3 BOV, Coil over suspension, bushes just replaced. 18in gold AVS 7 spoke mags. Tinted windows, CD player, Complete power options, digital climate control etc. Balance of a 3 year warrenty, extremely well looked after a weekend car 70,000 genuine on the clock, 205rwkw on 15psi with room for more, A genuine nice fast car. $22,000 ono

Yeah this is a sort of common problem. I know (personally) that the RB20 pipe won't support anymore that about 200rwkw, although they can fail at a fair bit less that this. Mine was replaced with a 3 inch mild steel pipe. It works really well, heaps of flow awersome unrestricted flow capabilities. It should definately be upgraded even if you are not having problems with the stock pipe yet.

Yeah if you take off your pod, look at the compressor wheel and see if it has been hitting the compressor housing, this will make an extremely weird (and bad) noise. If it is then, you have too much free play in the turbo and you will be looking at a replacement or a rebuild. Also does it blow any smoke? on idle, when you rev it? on boost? if no to all of these questions then no your turbo should be fine.

Umm well can I ask why you are looking to buy from a car yard/importer? did you buy your car from one of these establishments? I am not a fan of car yards the only good thing about them is the fact that they give you a warranty. And besides if you are looking for a decently modified, (engine mods: cooler, bigger turbo, fuel pump, clutch) car then from what I have seen there are not too many good examples in car yards, most have been thrashed, or just have general mods like wheels and paint/kit. I believe that if you are serious about buying a quality skyline you should check out the trading post. www.tradingpost.com.au At least then you will have a decent range to choose from and also have more of a chance of securing something that you want in terms of mods/condition/klms etc and probably save a few grand while you go. My thoughts anyway.

Yeah dude what you have described doesn't sound good at all. When you say leaking oil do you mean from the block? oil filter, oil pump, oil feed to the turbo? It is running hot? I don't really trust the factory gauges hey, not to say take their reading with a grain of salt however just use them as a guide. My factory boost gauge is stuffed, it reads 0 vac the whole time boosting or just sitting at idle. But yeah it could be serious or maybe not too serious. more info dude

Now this is just a thought but, when u did reset the cpu were the front wheels straight and aligned? Because I heard some thing about the HICAS caliberating at around 100-130? so it could be off because of the difference in the angles of the wheels front to back. Just a thought really

I don't entirely agree with what BHDave said about bleed valves. The ones that most guys make are generally pretty shoddy. they don't hold boost (bleeds back by like 5psi) and they spike something chronic or from what I have personally seen which is 7 examples if I remember correctly. Another reason to buy A brand name one is becasue some of these have a brass restrictor in the valve itself. This is designed to try and stop (read curb) wastegate creep. Turbosmart calls it something like GBC gated boost controller or something like that.

yeah I am currently trying to make a decision simaliar to this one except I have an R32 and it's making a bit of power and the RB20DET box is starting to suffer, I can't get into second after 4000rpm and the rest of the shifts are so shoddy. I am looking at replacing my RB20 box with an RB25 box because they are so much stronger rather than rebuilding mine. Since you already have a decently strong gear box I would just keep it and get it rebuilt. Your only problem is the syncros by the sounds of it, and for these to get rebuilt you are probably only looking at around $600. Rather than trying to get a whole new box sourced and fitted which potentially could have the same problem or even worse.

Usually you can tell when your standard BOV is leaking becasue when monitoring the boost gauge it will fall back a little on full boost (no, I am not confusing this with wastegate creep). Also the main other time you can tell if it leaks is when say going up a hill in third when you really should be in second and it's holding 4psi, then the needle will start to kind of tremmor and shake slightly while still holding the same throttle position. If you have a pod you will probably also hear the boost escaping. This is how I found out my BOV was leaking, and then it went on the dyno and that just confirmed it, since I had exhaust and filter upgrades it was running 9psi but would be falling back to about 8psi, got aftermarket BOV and was running 9psi-9.5psi.

Depending on what aftermarket BOV you get, you may or may not have trouble with stalling. I seriously don't rate the standard BOV they leak something chronic if your car has passed or approaching 80,000kms. Had the standard BOV on my silvia and it was pretty bad, was leaking when just coming onto boost with a little throttle and of course on full boost. If you plan to upgrade your turbo or even just HI-Flow your standard you really should get an aftermarket BOV, otherwise you will begin to get compressor surge because the standard BOV can't flow enough air and to get rid of the boost after you step off the gas.

Yeah a problem I am begining to hear about more often. But how heavy is your clutch to be shearing the metal mounting bracket? that is some serious pedal power right there. Had a seriously hard clutch in the silvia but came from japan like that could have had a custom frabricated bracket already in it, because I have felt other clutches that were not as hard as mine but the owners have had to replace brackets before. Maybe a switch to a twin plate clutch is the go? Have one in the skyline not too much pedal pressure and no chance of it slipping, hard to navigate speed bumps and people driveways though.

I am guessing that it could have something to do with your iginition system. Coil packs possibly? however this does sound reminiscent of a problem I have had in my naturally aspirated auto VL. I would be driving down the road and everything would be fine then I would lose power and engine would splutter and just run like s**t. Pull over and let it sit for a while (like you did in that carpark while someone came) then I would take off and it would be fine. Turned out that my Crank angle sensor was stuffed and I would say this is your problem as well. Not more than $100 to fix. hope this helps

Carparks just arent cool. I'm lucky (or kinda dumb) because i have two cars so i drive my POS to work and to mates places and just for general driving. Drive the skyline around when I am cruising or if a want, sorry need to go fast or more than likely if I have to pick up a chick or something. But Coles won't cover you for anything mate sorry to tell you. This is one of those things thatjust can't really be avoided I guess but bad luck anyway. BTW why did you sell your skyline?

Nah man the gauge should be illuminated from behind, all the other A/F gauges I have seen at night have had the rear illumination hooked up. How else are you supposed to see the rich/lean (apart from the colour) if only the leds light up? hope this helps

Yeah I would agree with R34GTT if you have an aftermarket BOV this would almost definately be the reason for stalling and RPM drop. Does this also occur when you have the air-con working? However Like I have always said, aftermarket ECU's don't control base idle settings too well at all, a re-tune of your base idle settings may be in order, this worked for me in my old silvia. hope this helps