Grimesy

Anyone know of anywhere i can get spark plugs in bulk for a good price? Ebay isnt providing much discount once you add in freight. I need a fair few in multiple types. Thanks in advanced.

Spotted a black GTT with plates "RB25DET" on springbank rd @ 3:45pm.

So tempting, would buy these if i had the cash. Perfect offset for GTST's. Goodluck with sale.

http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/national/drug-affected-adelaide-man-caught-driving-defected-car-with-pair-of-vice-grips/story-fnii5yv7-1226683677029 Good laugh that is.

Exactly as above, they are solid and sure they are heavier but they do work very well and for the price you cant go past them. I currently have the same as the sydneykid group buy 24mm adjustable front and 22mm adjustable rear, however that is different from car to car, i suggest you look that up for a rough guide on what works for your car.

I have Bilsteins with king springs all round in my R33, i got them organized through GSL RallySport on here. I think i got them for roughly $1200 when they had a deal going on. They might be able to help out. Really nice especially compared to stock, have been in a few cars which have your typical jap coilovers and they are alot smoother. But still nice and firm with out being over the top, however i did do a major overhaul when i got them installed with sway bars and bushes all round so its hard to tell how much each item did in terms of steering response.

Whiteline should be able to do the job. I'll assume you mean mounting bushes which resemble a D? http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W21105 Have you already upgraded your sway bars? If not i would be doing that at the same time.

What turbo are you currently running?

If mzol89 doesn't take the grill. I will have it, if you are willing to post.

Looking for RB25 Valley/Coilpack Cover (needs to have decent seals on the sides). Also looking for a R33 GTST M spec grill s1

Looks like labor would rather have a brain tumor and have decided to put K.Rudd in the top job again. We just need an election now to finally put Labor out of its misery instead of having them on life support.

No, but don't feed it what ever you do.

Spotted a R32 with Sly 032 plates today.

Nathan can you please post pics of the rear pods? I might be keen. Also series 1 and 2 use the same PFC.

Been following this from the beginning and its a great build. Also what clutch have you got? Looks similar to the NPC carbotic.

That looks awfully familiar especially with the two studs, I dont suppose it is mine? Got mine on Monday which was good, just need to bolt it all back together now.

Hope he has insurance, I don't think I would want my car back after it got stolen, it would "feel" dirty. Will keep an eye out. Not too far from me, however i doubt it would still be around that area.

So in NSW, for example, if a neighbour believes you have a noisy car, they can go to the local authorities and dob you in. You then get an EPA notice in the mail and are required to pass a check/test?

Location?

Spotted a clean MNP or black 33 GTST with XX plates on Main Rd Blackwood @ 5:30pm.

Nice, what colour is it?, i think this requires pictures

FD is close to GTR money. Other two can be had reasonably cheap now. Unless your 33 has all the fruit. i would just sell it and buy one already made for track work. There was one with a full cage and GT3037 turbo on my105 for 10k. Would be perfect for track work.

If you want to do a good job, take the fronts off and re paint them where they have been rolled/lipped. That is easy to do and only requires a quick wire wheel job to remove the rust, then just prep, prime and paint. They are easier to do off the car than on. As you can see all the guards have been rolled poorly, not enough heat has gone into them to stop the paint from cracking. Then moisture has got in and rusted them.

Upgrading from the 33? Personally i would prefer RX7 out of all them. Pity i know nothing about them, just like the way the look and sound.

I suggest you invest in a couple of wire wheels and a drill/ plus a grinder, you will need to remove the rust with that then use rust converter and fish oil afterwards otherwise it will just form again. QM1 polar white and get the year, make and model, there are many different versions of polar white. Clean, prime, paint is the order you need. The better the prep/cleaning work the better results yielded. Multiple thin layers of paint is best. Rear Guards are knackered they will need replacing just going from the pics. Fronts will need to be removed off the chassis (easy to do) then you will need to wire wheel it off, then use rust converter, then fish oil, follow by sanding to get smooth start at a low grit sand paper to a high one. Then prep for painting, then paint and clear over the top. The boot/spare wheel area, you will need to remove the sound deadening first(the black/grey shit) see how bad the rust is, if its all the way through the metal then it will be have to be cut out and replaced. if not do the same as above. I would replace the door hinges with brand new ones. Bumpers can be repainted depending on the material. Just need to strip old paint off for a nice even finish. Same with the hood. Picture 8 is a bit worrying, dont even know what to say. Looks like the door is just filled with rust. Any bubbles of paint is usually rust forming underneath the paint. Paint will need to be stripped and rust removed and repainted. Remove the side skirts too it looks like it has some from the pics, then check for rust there. To be honest, the car is a wreck, do yourself a favor before you attempt any work. Get the car jacked up and check you chassis rails, if they are free of rust or not bent. Then go for it. If they are rusty/bent/look abnormal, you may aswell just wreck/part out the car. That car looks like it has been mistreated in the past, wouldnt surprise me if it was a repairable writeoff.