Braddock

I just took the V spec for a drive out or curiosity. It's certainly not pristine, its taken a whack under the drivers side sill, and there's respray in that area, so its been like that for a while. There was also water in the boot around the spare wheel well. It seems to drive quite well, but the clutch action is right up top, so it's on it's way out, and smelled quite a bit. I'd say it's a $15k car riding on it's V Spec badge to fetch a higher than deserved price. This was just a quick assessment, I dare say a qualified inspector would have a field day. The guys working there seemed genuine enough and not pushy, the condition of the car just spoke for itself.

Ok cool, thanks Terry

Ok guys, I've decided to not go ahead with either of these cars for now. Thank you all for your input, I probably would have made a huge mistake if not for this forum. The dream is not over! but I need more time to look and research, its foolish of me to think I can find an original car that wont need money spent on it, so I hear what you're all saying about the pros of buying an already modified car, its just a matter of finding one that's been modified in all the right areas with an emphasis on durability and reliability - for me anyway. Cheers, Paul.

I just personally prefer the 32 - it was the car that dominated Bathurst, and I prefer the way they look... even if a little dated. I'll avoid this V spec though.

The Old Z is appreciating, I've seen some sell recently for 20k or more, but yeah I'd have trouble handing over that much cash for a datto. This one has been beautifully done though Here's one with an RB26dett and GTR interior http://www.auto-otaku.com/home/2007/11/japanese-pro-to.html

I had one as a first car, they're a lot of fun, if you dont mind living without the comforts of a modern car, like aircon, heating... they can suck fumes in pretty good too!

Curious as to what you all think of the 260Z This one here is a cracker... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7538.0.html

Was this at Japlink? sounds like the one I saw today. Was it marked at $28k but they said they'd sell it for $22k? makes me think they're a bit desperate... if its the same car? I'd guess they'll accept less. I did look at the speedo also, I'm not sure how far out of alignment it should be before its considered "wound back" When I drove home, I looked at the speedo in my humble honda civic, and it had very similar slight misalignment, and it's certainly never been wound back. I'm glad new cars now have LCD odometers to help put an end to this dodgy practice. The car is totally stock, which is what appeals to me and my grandpa like intentions for the car.

You might be right about that. As far as I can tell though, the only difference is Brembo breaks, BBS wheels, a sticker on the back, and an updated 4x4 system? I think they're also a tad heavier?

I've gotta say, I couldn't have found a more helpful forum, really appreciate the feedback and answers to my many questions from you all! There's still a chance I may pull the pin on the whole idea and wait a bit longer, but it's been an interesting few days learning the ins and outs of buying a GTR. Thanks guys.

Sweet, so nothing too serious, just a new engine

That's what i like to hear! the bit about it feeling special I mean. This is a learning curve for me, I dont even own a toolbox, or have my own garage. so that might give you an idea of how often I work on cars. Pardon me for being ignorant, but if a turbo fails, does it destroy the whole engine with it? whats the worse case scenario regarding turbo failure?

Will do, cheers mate.

The number, or the whole plate? This is form the "what to look for thread" This plate was definitely etched... not engraved, but not print smooth either The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number. This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

Ok, cheers mate, I'll call off the dogs.

Ok thanks. Geeze! haha, this whole buying a GTR thing really is a phucking detectives game! Buyer beware.

Its definitely suspect! also convenient that the last few letters are scraped off the ID number Its actually the '8' though that designates V-Spec not the AA and it does appear to have an '8' after the S but am I wrong, or were there no white V Specs made? Doesn't add up.

Hmmm, silver V spec II - only colour they come in, with a chassis plate for a white car? Is there anyone who can verify the paint codes? it should be BLO - not KLO

Mate, are you sure that Chassis plate link is correct? Because if it is, according to the plate on this car, the car should be white, not silver!

I actually took a photo of the plate... I can make out the 8 but it looks like the remaining letters have been scratched off

Thanks Ian!

No, it was almost dark, so I'll go back tomorrow. Mate, that's the last thing I want to do - spend more cash the second I buy it! Is there something wrong with the standard ones? or you mean for more power?

Hey guys, I just had a quick look along paramatta road and saw this http://www.japlinkmotors.com.au/zoom.php?id=137 They have $28k on it, but pretty much offered it up for $22k without me even haggling!? so, not sure if that means there's something wrong with it or what... I did spot some over spray on the drivers side skirt. Totally original, including exhaust, no dash bubbles etc Will go back tomorrow when I have more time to look properly. Think I'll cancel the inspection on the one I've been looking at, I need to put more time into looking.

Good to know, cheers. Guys, I've been driving a stock, run of the mill Honda Civic for the last 4 years in an attempt to be practical and save a house deposit etc. I'm looking at buying a GTR because I'm bored out of my arse, I'm limiting my budget so I can continue to save deposit etc. I'm also a bit older now - 34 and my days of hooning around are behind me. I drive like a Grandpa now and have no intentions of modifying the car, other than what needs to be done to keep it running reliably. I love the history of the R32, and even though they look a bit dated now, they still have great road presence, and aggressive stance, and even in stock form can bring a big grin to your face when you give it squirt - that for me is all I want from the car. So, if these cars were built well enough to drive reliably under normal, unstressed driving conditions, in my mind, a clean, stock, well looked after and serviced example should serve me well.

Thanks for posting those links Ten Four I have seen most of those, but there's nothing to suggest any of them are better than the one I'm looking at. The V spec is more than I want to pay, a couple have too many mods, which I'm steering clear of from both an insurance point of view, and also because I don't know enough about it to know what's good or bad. I'm under the impression that if the boost, or power have been upped in some way, the first two important things that should be replaced is the oil pump and ceramic turbos. Is this true?