30ed32

has anyone else welded a bit around the base just on the one side so the tensioner won't hit? because my thread isn't so great, the tensioner stud is tight in there and doesn't move around, but i dunno if thats enough for me

alright thanks

I guess if I have a 152 tooth belt I'll have to relocate?

do you know the history of the block and head?? head might be warped or something may be cracked, oh but i see your compression is still pretty good.. unlikley its the gasket then

Will be starting mine up end of next week, will be using 2x1.25mm

life isnt that hard.... get a screw driver.. remove the screws on the underside of the steering column surround, pull it apart, put your controller inside.. good luck getting it in there and then put the cover back on and use your screw driver again.

ok thanks, I'll give them a call hopefully they don't try to charge me some stupid amount just a for a t piece

Thank you guys hopefully it's not gunna be too hard to find a T piece like that. Thanks again

Sorry guys I know this is slightly off topic, but I didn't want to start a new topic. I am currently putting a rb25 vvt head on a 30 and will be doing this mod.. but there is a oil return on the exhaust side of the head that goes via a pipe to the block. So my problem is RB30 blocks don't have this hole in the same place, so would it be alright to extend that hose and use a t piece to let it return through the turbo oil return on the block. Hope this makes sense I can take pictures if needed.

my 32 has read at the same level as that for other 2 years now.. everything is good so I think its just my gauge

awesome.. just hope its cheap enough and i hope this helps someone else out in the future, maybe I'm just a bad researcher but I couldn't find such definite answers anywhere else. Thanks guys should be running in a few weeks hopefully once I have all the parts

thanks I remember seeing that a while ago i just forgot, it doesn't look like there was any extra welded on... just vvt blocked and the hole reshaped, but thats probably just me not looking closely enough. Thanks for all your help I will take head into hytec and get them to sort it out for me.

yeah thanks guys i think thats my best bet is taking the head to hytec and get them to match the gasket.. some people are saying head some are saying block? I guess i'll have a look when i get the heads off and compare gaskets and go from there.

thanks everyone for clearing that up. Maybe it would be easier to pick up a cheap r32 25de head? This is going into an R33 btw, and I have heard something about the intake manifolds not fitting or something? Would the 32 head be plug and play in a r33 using all the r33 parts that attach to the head?

sweet, I'm in Hamilton btw and only know one engine place here and don't think they will do it and if they did it they would charge a lot. Hopefully I can find another one.. it's not really worth the trip up to Auckland unless i can't find anyone.

Is it possible to redrill engine mount brackets or use shorter engine mounts at all or will the diff hit the subframe

i ran my gts4 on 16psi on a r33 25det turbo for just over 2 years and never once had a problem.. and it would spike to 18 then go down to 16.. guess i just got lucky

Oh thats good, I'll be using a 25DE head so that saves me some hassle. I also have a 25DET head so I can compare the differences when i take the 25DE head off the motor. Anyway using RB30 or RB26 head gasket, I won't have to weld a bigger area on the block? Or is that wrong?

Thanks for the feedback guys, I was under the impression that it was the block that needed to be welded and machined to suit the gasket. Thats what I gathered from this picture anyway. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...30%20Gasket.jpg

I need a bit of help here with those two things believe me I have searched and haven't found a definite answer. So the plan is to have use a rb25de head from a r33 and a rb30 block, from what I've found people are saying it doesn't matter what head gasket I use, 25 and 30 will both work. Although I am trying to save money where I can here and would prefer to not have to get the block welded and machined flat again. Some say its recommended to weld the water jacket on the block so that you have more surface sealing the water, but can't I just use a rb30 head gasket and everything will be alright? Going from these pictures that I have found: 30 gasket on 30: http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...s-RB30Block.jpg 25 gasket on 30: http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...-RB25Gasket.jpg The oil gallery on the head will be seal obviously, most likely by using a grub screw as some people have used and it seems cheaper. So if the vvt feed is blocked on the head is it alright to use a rb30 HG so that the water jacket will seal better? Thank you

thanks, I don't think I will be getting it machined as I'm on a budget and the engine shop in my town is a mega rip off, but I'd assume it's already pretty flat.

Sorry to bring this back up guys, but I will be doing this soon and was just wondering does anyone have any tips of drilling perfectly straight (90*) to the block as I don't like the idea of the tensioner being on an angle even if very slight. Don't want the belt jumping off or anything like that, so how have you guys done it?

thats a lot of cash.. I could never let something like that slide