starwarz

the original is 0.9. The CPS cap does not really tell you anything. But i had a look on the website and the model i got is rated at 13 PSI. So 1 bar = 14.504 psi. .9 bar ~ 13 psi so cap is all good. The repco guy seemed to know straight away as soon as he saw it. The new cap has got a lot more spring to it, the older nissan one probally never been changed as it squeeks a lot and has to be pushed down quite a bit to get it moving. Looks likes nothing wrong with it but dont take that as its alright the internals bit is truly shagged. Hopefully its all sorted i just bleed it until it was just mostly coolant flowing out, time will tell but the systems got pressure once again so one problem sovled. I tightned up the hose on the overflow as well make sure nothing escape. Degreased the engine to looked horrible with coolant stains.

if its just for looks get a GTT one might need to wait but they occasionally pop-up on ebay or the forsale section. Might end up costing a bit. If your not in it for the looks then i suggest google ECUtalk they have the small LCD's about $250 which will give you live reading on pretty much all your main sensors, ECUtalk consult cable for $80 just plug in laptop and away you go. Cheapest option would be an Ebay consult cable from china, does the job.

bad fuel filter (clogged) or plugged catalytic converter , ignition timing....ETC take it to a proper mechanic not those dealership people.

what do you mean sub up (foam up ?) you just put a few caps into the bucket (per instruction) and thats it. Edit:oh i see now Gerni is a pressure washer

Got my mate to come over his got a few more years experince with messing around with his cars then me. Noticed radiator top pipe was like a sponge when running and when squeezing the coolant will flow to the reservoir. He suggested new radiator cap, so i went bunning and the dude there got me a CPC one. Culprite........BUSTED radiator cap, soon as it went in life returned to the system the top hose was surging once again. Would be following JJ mans epic write up this time around, since the systems got pressure unlike before need to wait for it cool down this time the bleed process should be a success.

ill give it a go tommorow, im sick of using the bleeder...cant belive my system has so much air in it lol.

Your telling me just came home, the reserviour tank was empty for fuark sake....take off the bleeder (do not open when hot) i did anyway nothing attacked me when i opened it. Idle for a few minutes, still air in there. Followed by Revving its nuts off about 5 times followed by streams of coolant full of air......good enough the coolant reserviour began filling up as a result. Whats this cokebottle trick i hear your supposed to jam the bottom of it into something.

yep i remebered half way through about the heater, turned it on and noticed an increase in the amount of air bubbles coming out as soon as i did that. Just went downstairs coolant seems to be staying in the Reservoir this time around hopefully enough air has left the system since my last attempt at letting the air out.

i have tried bleeding it three times through the bleeder valve at the highest point of the engine, i just leave it open during idle and watch the air buble out till it stops.......i have done it 3 times for about 10 minutes each time now. I toped up the Reservoir again so hopefully it stays this time.

After changing my radiator and changing coolant i noticed when the engine is cooled it draws coolant from the reservoir tank leaving it empty or almost empty and when it runs it pushes in to the reserviour to somewhere inbetween empty and full. Use to just stay put on full, what the go here ? radiator has coolant so why is it drawing so much from the reserviour when cool and bringing it back when it starts running.

^ why is this troll not banned.

Silver R34 25GT on james ruse around 6:00pm, looks clean might want to change driving style in gridlock traffic, little heavy on the accelerator.

+1 for not buying off woman drivers, i wouldnt mind a highly serviced but driven hard vehicle. As long as it hasnt seen the rev limiter. but lets be serious all our cars have been redlined in the past but a carnt who redlines it every second week can fark off.

Got stock GTT rims, happy with the OEM look =) but if i was bothered enough WORK Meister rims

definetely take up some action, and yes let both insititutions know whats going on maybe some room for legal action. Least they arent blaming the carbon tax they know if they do that ACCC would be so far up their Ass.

umm you usually tell people to use the search function when they have started a topic when there is already a detailed sticky or thread, not in the actual highly detailed thread and sticky

update: found a seller no needs to get back to me about a radiator, thanks.

Yea thats why i was asking the previous question.

After an R34 Automatic radiator mine has sprung a leak and is in need of changing, Would be more preferable if im able to pick-up in the sydney area or your willing to post. Name your price !

Ill give it a go, changing it over does not seem like a difficult process might end up doing that myself. But im going to abandon manual radiator along side a external transmission cooler seems to be a very limited amount of information concerning that, it would be better to buy the proper radiator that can be hooked up to the transmission lines.

Update: i have been searching the internet for aftermarket alloy radiators but so far all i find are Manual compatiable types, i hear you can fit the manual radiator along side an external transmission cooler. However i hear that its not efficent to have transmission hooked up to just an transmission cooler, it should only be used as a support mechanism for the actual radiator. Then again i hear that the R33 automatic is not hooked up to the radiator at all and is acutally running on this transmission cooler. So what do you guys think, will external transmission cooler along side an manual type radiator seem sufficient. If so how many rows should i consider i dont want to be sending my transmission to the grave.

Dat alloy is tempting ill spray HKS in black on it (JKS), quick fix wont last long but just enough time for me to get cash and get in a new radiator, water pump and timing belt while im at it mech said he will need to take off radiator to the job so he can do the swap over while his at it, maybe save some coin.

definetely, a new alloy radiator looks good being new and that but i just forked out some cash on rocker cover gaskets, sparkies and trans fluid. Cheap fix for the moment.

UPDATE: turns out its a leak dudes being my bored self went down stairs to investigate the issue incase i missed something and barely able to see the little bubbling that happening at the bottom of the pastic of where the cap goes this explains it, its a small leak nothing to bad, i think this means i need to change my radiator or find some type of sealent good enough to stop this little leak.

quick google seach one a couple minutes from me, ill check them out tommorow, thanks !.