R6n350GT

Ill have to get some 2nd hand ones to tie me over

Yes but need more details, when you say member is that a QLD raceway member or SAU member, how many booked in so far, rules etc? My tyres are .... how you say .. kinda bald so how strict will they be?

Nah even if you send seperate boxes under different names but to same address they can still combine them the ass holes

How did you just use a normal key and not your alarm key? Your gonna have to get in contact with your alarm maker and get the override code for the alarm and then get another key asap.

Did you check all the fuses anyway? kick pannel and then behind battery ?

AJ from Voodoo garage in Southport Goldcoast. Knows how to paint QX1. 0434 427 200 He did this bonnet, highly recommended

If you have no dash lights then you have most likely blown a fuse. There is a tail light or wiper fuse i think in drivers kick panel so check there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/page__p__5834712__hl__servicing__fromsearch__1#entry5834712

Try searching g35driver for the manual, there is a can of it on ebay at the moment, dont know if 4l or 8l...

i have sent numerous pms but never got a reply. How did u go?

I know how to fix this issue 1. wind your window down 2. the door trim near the edge of the door needs a flat blade screw driver (with tape wound around it to protect the trim) inserted into where the windows goes down 3. lift the trim up at the very edge (outer not hinge end) and it should lift off the metal guide. (do it on the other door the correct way so you can see how it comes off) 4. now lift the trim away from the edge of the door guide 5. with the trim being held away from the door as much as possible look for the mechanism with a tourch 6. Get a long pair of pointy nose pliers and manually pull the locking mechanism once you take the other door off you will see the cable L shape pin on the end of the cable sits in the locking mechanism. Your cable may have come out or actuator is so weak its not pulling it hard enough

06+ you mean

Happy Lap? So is there a speed limit to the track? How many cars on at a time?

Few options i have found $350-450 for Utec EMS delivered (second hand) - it can remove the limit tune $400 Total *ish $750 for a tuned car, more HP (usually 8-10RWHP from a tune once u have bolt ons), and no speed limit HKS delimiter $300-$400 SpeedM8 CANBUS delimiter for Skyline 350GT http://www.ncs-systems.com/prod/1458 £179.95 each for 1 units £129.95 each for 2 units. £122.52 each for 3 units. £107.00 each for 5 units.

Holy crap, i didnt know u drove that far!!

They look good, but i think go for either LEDs or Halos, not both. I made a DIY in which u can do halos for like $40.

Fuel pump ? I dont mind the guards, i think would like awesome with tinded windows, different and blackedout grill also black lower grills and slightly tint the headlights bit darker. Nice either way.

Oh good, i hope weather holds out and will see you guys there +1

I brought my car from Dmitiry when he worked at Nagoya, gave me a good deal at the time but didnt include imobilizer when he said he would, never sent trhough the extended warranty so got burnt with that.. Apparently he did alot of dodgy stuff and didnt keep promises so avoid him... I contacted Nagoya thinking he still worked there asking for some of the stuff he promised and the Manager there Cody was so helpfull, gave me refund on the imobilizer, sorting out warranty and even sending me a new set of car mats, was such a relief that after almost a year later he was still willing to go to all the trouble of helping me !!! Amazing. So i would recommened you go see Cody at Nagoya, he will look after you. They give u 3-5 yrs warranty, free delivery, 12mths rego and prices are great. Plus they have constant stock so u can go look. Who ever you buy from check this stuff out Check for any puttering of the exhaust take off the oil plug with car running and make sure you can feel a vacume with you palm over the hole check the rotors and see how big the lip is check the gear knob for wear check the right thigh cushion on the drivers seat for wear if they let you take the air tube off and take the # 6 coil off the spark plug and check for oil in the hole - You will need flat blade screw driver, star and 10ml socket While the air tube is off check the throttle body, push the valve open and shine a torch in there and check for how much carbon build up there is, if low Km should be next to nothing Check the windows and see if they have trouble moving up and down - is one slower than the other when you push both down and up and let it auto go up Get a large flat blade screw driver and hold it against each cylinder on the head, old your ear up against the handle and listen if any one of them is worse than the other Make sure when pressing the lock and unlock on both remote and the door button that each door can easily lock and unlock and not just go half way Tune the stereo to Bass 3 and Tremble 2 and turn up so like 17 and listen for any distortion. i once checked out a car which was obvious wound back and they had base turned right down as the back speakers were f#$ked

Dmitiry who USED to work for Nagoya sold me one with no imobilizer, basically knew the compliancer and told him not to put one in there, so dodgy, stay away from him if you can! Cody at Nagoya is awesome to deal with thank god.. Get a Mongoose M60 or 80 as they work well with our car, they are Australia approved. They have a upgrade kit if you have stock remote for the unlock/lock/boot but as mine didnt i just got the m80/g which came with 2. Mine didnt have immobilizer either as factory As for what immobiliser, lock the car, manually unlock using the key, see if u can start the car, if so = no immobiliser. what type is it if it wont start, look at the unlock remote, or go looking for the unit !! (not advised)

Koyo make a G35 and a 350Z radiator. I have the 350z one, brought it from a g35 user and didnt think to ask which it was. So if you get a G35 one it will have the filer cap at the right end! No other issues

5AT will need an upgrade but dont the 6MT come with LSD? Or the sports packs? its hard to tell which has it and which dont. Tuning is another $800-1200 for Utec or flashed cpu, if you get Haltec which is better as full standalone tuning will be alot more as its like double the amount of hours to tune and at $200 and hour its $ Installation i have no idea, im doing that with a engine builder friend.

I dont know how much the SC kit is but if its over $3500 then get a HKS turbo kit for under that, Kudos motorsport may have one left. You may be pushing to get 400RWHP from a SC... I will list prices that are without shipping from the USA but are the cheapest prices just from looking around on the net. As far as a built engine: Performance parts Wiseco Pistons 96.0mm (+0.020" Over Bore) 8.5:1 + Rings $1150 (includes eagle rods) Eagle H Beam Rods & ARP rod bolts $inc above ACL Race Rod/Main/Thrust Washers & Washers $165 ARP Main studs $167 NGK Iridium one step cooler spark plugs $70 *Dont worry about forged crank shaft OEM parts you will need Welsch Plugs (can be reused i guess) $30 Rev up oil pump (can use old one but i upgraded) $190 Water pump (can be reused i guess) $46 Overhaul gasket set $250 2x Timing Chain $210 3 Tensioners + 2 guides (you could get away with old ones but you never want to have to replace this stuff once engine is back in) $230 HR Head studs * $58 HR Head gasket * $58 * You can save alot of money by going the HR head gasket and HR head bolt route, they are good for 600HP http://www.jimwolfte..._HEAD_BOLTS.pdf if you want ARP head studs then $175 or $400 for L19s. If you want Cosworth head gasket then $260 Machine work that you will need to do (and will cost between $1200-1500) Head recon x2 Bore & Hone Deck block Chemical clean Balancing Crank regrind Other stuff so you can include in budget if needed Fuel pump DW 300ltr one (better than walbro) $170 DW injectors, 600 perfect for your goals $lots second hand for $350ish Radiator - you will need a better one than stock Koyo Rad Vs Stock $350 + fans ($120) Wideband gauge like Zeitronic ZT-2, maybe even oil temp/pressure gauge ($250-300ish) EMS you seem to have sorted.. Stopping power Stoptech Stage 2 (slotted rotors, braided lines, motul rbf fluid) $860 Get a pair of used brembos from g35driver of my350z $800-1200 Save up for handling so you can use that 300rwkw whiteline sway bars and upgraded end links $700-800 then bc racing br coilovers $1300 If you want contacts of where to get the cheapest stuff (cheaper than prices i found displayed online) then let me know, trust me i researched the shit out of it, spoke to many vendors in the states, that list is countless hours of research...

You know what i did to fix mine, Took off engine cover Took off all pipes connected to plenum Took off plenum went and brought some stainless steel washers that fit under the rocker cover bolts ($2) Rocker cover gasket $15 + post from usa http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[13270]+\(z33&cPath=714_715_716_720 Cleaned the area, used a bit of RTV sealant on the edges of the gasket where it has a habit of shifting when you are putting the cover on and no problems since. If i was you and couldnt do it myself i would buy the parts and then pay them labour. Oh and if you must buy new rocker covers, get them off ebay for like $100 Now you just saved $800, ill take half forgot to mention that the washers allow greater pressure of torque to be applied on the rocker cover to keep it on tighter so when it heats and wont warp and cause leaking.

What exactly do you mean by center console?