R6n350GT

He said prices were good and he was happy with them, im surprised he didnt order? Give him a call or message and tell him i told him to get his ass moving and get some real handling !! Thats fine , i try and help out as often as i can! Yeah over heating can be a pain when u dont get all the air out, so get it done right the first time. Here is what you have to do for a correct V35/350GT/G35 coolant flush with no air bubbles (my post on g35driver)Well i got it, ended up doing this, which should be done from step 1: 1. Wait till car is cooled down 2. Jack up front or park on step incline 3. remove rear bleed valve from heater hose 4. remove rad drain plug with bucket under it 5. remove rad cap 6. remove and wash out overflow ONCE DRAINED 1. Put rad drain plug back in 2. put bleed plug back in 3. put over flow container back in 4. get a long funnel or water bottle or non spill funnel and put tape about 1" from the tip of funnel or on the thread of the bottle until its thick enough to fit snug in the rad neck 5. with car off fill the overflow to minimum. 6. with car off slowly poor mixture into funnel wedged in rad with your premixed mixture (i used distilled and water wetter) 7. Once you see it no longer draining from the funnel grab the lower rad hose and compress and let go a few times and see if anymore drains out, top it up if it all goes 8. Start the car and slowly keep at least a bit of fluid so that the funnel is at no point completely empty 9. As you see it no longer draining and staying where it is rev car to 1500-2000 for 30sec and then let idle. Repeat a few times 10. As soon as you see fluid rise up the funnel and overflow container full turn car OFF 11. Let rest of the fluid drain, if none is left very slowly poor more in until you cant fit any more in. 12: You should put rad cap back on, start car again and turn fans on with A/C off and temp as high as it can go and fans on high 13. Make sure you can feel hot air, that means coolant is circulating and passing hot air out, cold air = air bubble = slightly opening the bleed valve and letting air out until just water comes out. 14. one you confirm hot air and/or no air from bleed valve turn car OFF 15. If jacked up put it down and go for a drive, if all good then put under tray back on! 16. Keep and eye on overflow tank for next week and make sure its at minimum

So its on next weekend then.?

Thats ok, no thanks required. I wonder why i bother sometimes.

I aggree, i know the ins and outs of my car pretty well, better than most mechanics. I have done everything myself, just read g35 driver and you will learn all the things that go wrong with our car, how to fix them etc. I even made a thread on sau called serving, it includes all the fluids you need, amounts, DIY fixes etc. A few things may not be 100% like under estimating on some fluids amounts but i cant change the post like you can edit on other forums (so annoying mods...)

Who and how they defect you for coil overs? lucky i kept stock springs..

If you can get Coil overs, will lower and then give you better handling

Ill make it. Cobey cant he is working.

Same settings as mine, get coil overs, BC Racing BR series FTW !!

Saturday is nice and sunny, can no one make it Saturday?

I went from a manual V35 coupe with stock single core black radiator to due core Koyo Racing radiator. Here is the visual difference Does it make a difference? If you are just driving around town,on hwy then no. No difference you can notice, it will sit at the same half way mark on the temp gauge. The stock one does a fine job at cooling the car under normal conditions, even with hard driving. Will it make a difference on track or if FI/SC, yes it will as it holds SO much more water and has a lot bigger surface area to cool. Is it a pain to install, no not really, even the 350Z one will fit but you will not be able to use the power duct thing. But you will need some slim line fans as my stock shroud did not fit. i got 2x 12" slimline ones. Spel brand i think. Brands? PWR, Koyo then if you cant get those two then get Mishimoto (i read they can be hard to fit and need some mods).. What is a pain, air in the system, biggest pain in the ass ever. So hard to get out so you really have to drain and fill correctly.

I got Axis Hiros 8.5 front with 245/40/19 and back 9.5 with 285/35/19 I wish when i got wheels i knew a thing or two about them but now i would get these FIVE AD WHEELS 19 x9.5+35 / 19 x10.5+22.......$1700 shipped .****Free lugnut kit, valve stems, Hub rings from Kevin@US-Autotech As for wheels after all the research i was gonna get Michellen Super Sport tyres for $1300 shipped from tirerack but i ended up getting Hankook K12 Evos (95% as good) and got them for like $1000 shipped (same sizes as Kumo KU31s i have already)

Oh CF is fine, no sanding, you just gotta hope it fits perfect. maybe a little cutting but its cleared so you cant sand it.

I got the FRP one. Apart from the D-shackle being too short (you can measure yours and email him and ask for the CF measurement) and see what he says. The vent angles were not 100% perfect so i did some sanding, just ask for photos of the vents and see the angles. Not sure if CF has same problem as FRP but it had pin holes and areas that needed filling.. If not then as long as the D-shackle thing is right size it will fit perfect, and if you happy with the vent angles then you will be very happy!!! Ill post some pics once its painted.

I was just in Sydney for the time attack (not worth the drive down tbh) .. i would have given you an offer as we had the ute..

Much needed to get fitment right? I got a vented bonnet of Paul and it fit perfect ! (once i had sanded the edges and the D bar that locks the bonnet down was too small so i had to file the FRP around it so it could lock down) but looks great. You do need to do a fair bit of prep before painting as there are pin holes and areas that need scraping out and filling and then re-prime and your good to go!

Depends if you have CD009 gearbox or not.. if so then i cant find a limit, thats all people upgrade to really.. With 5At with shift kit and Torque Converter for 400 at the wheels

Fair enough, get coil overs when ever as prices stay the same, RRP for sways is 320 front and 280 back or something but look here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368787-whiteline-sway-bars-for-sale/ both for $460!!! Get them if you can, seriously the best thing you can do. Takes no time at all to put them in. I was on Kumo KU31 245/285 and now was thinking of pilot super sport but went to hankook k12 evo as they are jsut as good but much cheaper. Getting them any day now. Yeah alot of work being done to engine. Well i actually brought another engine to work on while i drive my car.. Full forged, camed and machined

Awesome car, we will have to catch up and go for a drive, i got 159kw stock (just fujitsubo exhaust) and then 170kw after DE y-pipe, test pipes, z-tube, pop charger, motordyne spacer. I went to Matt and as good as he is the arrogance turned me away... I will be going to Gavin Woods, man he is a top guy, sat down and talked about what i needed and have he would work with me when i go FI. highly recommended !! Also you have spent so much already, dont go springs, get some coilovers, sway bars (jawgy is selling some new cheap so hit him up). You will be so amazed, car will be a grip monster ! what size tyres you get and type? Glad u got clear corners, and tinted windows! Cant wait till i see ur body kit on ! Im building a engine for 600HP but will only run at 450HP. Cant wait !

you forgot me!

im on the gc also, about 10mins from cobey. glad you decided to keep the car!! We go to JDM meets often and the mountains even more so if your that kind of driver Be good to meet you!

oem skyline drivers matt, how much?

Hey mellow man, mine are amazing, i used medium setting in the back, soft in the front. Took me 3hrs to install as i too my time. Most of it was jacking the car up and placing stands.. They have not only improved braking but handling is so much better, friends following me though mountains say car has no body roll and just sits so nicely on the road!

Really? since when do they have different years??? so when ordering parts for 2005 V35 you ask for 2007 V35 I have a stock OEM Coupe Radiator off a 2003 V35 (in qld) taken off at 38k

ok now worries If they have a radar then yes they will always get a reading but if you have a RD then u will know they are there before they can see you and get a reading if they have lidar then for the first 6 seconds the parking sensors interfere with signal so they get no reading but after 6 sec they switch off and they get a reading, or i can manually turn them off straight away or after i adjust my speed so they still end up getting a reading but i get a head star notice to make sure im not day dreaming !

Yeah cause where did i said i just cruise around at 160.... i said i rarely go over speed limit but sometimes it just happens. You obviously dont know anything about lidar and radar cause radar gun CANNOT be jammed. And if they had RADAR gun i would know before they saw me so if i was stupid enough to be doing 160 i could slow down to speed limit. I will not turn this into a argument, i am most likely a safer and more aware driver than most. If you look into the LIDAR blocker it is actually a parking sensor, there is no trick, it has a 3 stage parking sensor alert FYI. Dont presume i am a hoon because i like to be more aware of the BS tactics the "speed" safety cameras have these days. Oh yeah, if the parking sensory happens to interfere with a laser signal it will automatically turn off in a few seconds